I want to use Marmoleum in the redo of my 76 Argosy 24 and have been thinking of first “super-preserving” and waterproofing the original plywood sub floor with a coat of epoxy, perhaps using the West Marine epoxy system.
It would cost about $100. to do this.
Maybe a fiberglass mesh tape could be applied over the plywood joints first.
I've pulled the ugly carpet out of my small bath. Still debating on going with one-piece or tiles, but it will definitely NOT be carpeted again for the next 38 years!
Read a previous post about installing quarter round molding to clean up the edges after installation. My question concerns the contours of the 67 bath. Have they invented "flexible" quarter round that looks good, yet? I don't want to make the curves around the tub with small pieces of wooden round. What do you all think?
OldThread New Question FloorSealer vs. FloorMastic
I've pulled the VAT out and am left with bare discolored (moisture evidence) plywood around the edges (where the tile wasn't) and a film residue of mastic and/or tile backing on the rest of the floor. I'd like to seal the whole area with a polyurthene sealer. One to seal the raw ply and two to encapsulate the visual mastic, until the replacement tiles are installed.
The question is, (Shari) what brand tile mastic will be compatable/adhere to/with the sealer?
I've read the back of some Henry's mastic with no base ingredients stated but a caution to remove wax and sealers! If someone knows what the mastic is made of, maybe I can find a sealer of similar composition. Right now, I'd like to go with a polyurthene if possible.
Thanks,
Ed
Read a previous post about installing quarter round molding to clean up the edges after installation. My question concerns the contours of the 67 bath. Have they invented "flexible" quarter round that looks good, yet? I don't want to make the curves around the tub with small pieces of wooden round. What do you all think?
I recently had single sheet vinyl installed in the bath and kitchen of our '69 Sovereign. I'm not sure if it was the inexperienced installers or the complexity. But it has gaps all around, especially around the toilet. I have tried a flexible tub surround cove base kind of stuff but the pre-applied adhesive is not sticking. I plan to continue to try to fix it. Maybe someone will come up with something. In the kitchen I used a plastic coated foam type quarter round and it worked pretty well. There were not any real curves in the kitchen.
cheers, bill b.
__________________ bill b. 1969 Airstream Sovereign 31' 2001 F250 7.3 Diesel
I've pulled the ugly carpet out of my small bath. Still debating on going with one-piece or tiles, but it will definitely NOT be carpeted again for the next 38 years!
Read a previous post about installing quarter round molding to clean up the edges after installation. My question concerns the contours of the 67 bath. Have they invented "flexible" quarter round that looks good, yet? I don't want to make the curves around the tub with small pieces of wooden round. What do you all think?
Couple of possibilities, one would be to steam bend a piece of molding, another involves soaking it in a chemical bath...did it years ago IIRC polyethylene glycol was the primary chemical it was marketed under the name P.E.G. Another method, but pretty involved is to split the molding into narrow strips using a band saw, make the bends and glue the strips back together.... one would never guess that I did interior trims in my deep dark past
Aaron
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....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #2449 AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
I have finally found and purchased some solid vinyl tiles (18"x18" SVT) --not vinyl composition tiles (VCT)-- at a local salvage store. I had originally priced same through a flooring dealer. The dealer price was $1180 for 118 sf. The salvage price was $78 for 150 sf. I just didn't get the exact color I wanted.
The flooring is by a company called "MetroFlor". The have lots of info on the net, but a I can't find a local source for adhesive. Does anyone have a recommend on an adhesive to use. I am ripping up the old self adhesive tiles (won't stay down). I will be down to raw plywood.
1. What kind of adhesive or glue should I use.
2. Should I prime, preserve or paint the plywood when I have everything up?
I have finally found and purchased some solid vinyl tiles (18"x18" SVT) --not vinyl composition tiles (VCT)-- at a local salvage store. I had originally priced same through a flooring dealer. The dealer price was $1180 for 118 sf. The salvage price was $78 for 150 sf. I just didn't get the exact color I wanted.
The flooring is by a company called "MetroFlor". The have lots of info on the net, but a I can't find a local source for adhesive. Does anyone have a recommend on an adhesive to use. I am ripping up the old self adhesive tiles (won't stay down). I will be down to raw plywood.
1. What kind of adhesive or glue should I use.
2. Should I prime, preserve or paint the plywood when I have everything up?
Hello Safari Tim,
I have the same trouble with my armstrong cvt is it? It was the color and pattern We wanted but you need to use sheet flooring adhesive to solve the moving around an edge troubles.I found that out the hard way ,but we did different flooring in the 4 tradewind areas , rear bath , bedroom ,kitchenette, front room .So the kitchenette was redone with the adhesive. I know they had some adhesive on them but it is poor ,low tack glue.Ill second the motion about dirt in between the seems.Linoleum is a brand of flooring,but the leader in vinyl flooring since the 60s ,we all remember that brick pattern in the kitchen dont we? Now there is other brands such as armstong and marnoleum I think thats the right name .I would say to not go too cheap on the flooring with sheet vinyl .Go with high end for maximum durability ,they are not all the same ,it can and will rip if say some edgy thing dragged across it .High end grade linoleum is really tough stuff ,remember that old brick pattern,when I was a kid ,never remember a tear in it.
I made an error about the linolium by saying it was the leader in high end sheet vinyl ,Except that its not vinyl ,its a combination of other types of materials ,yet the best I think.
Hi--Used 12"x12" vinyl stick on tile in my A/S bath about 6-years ago. Job was easy, tile looked good. Problem was when A/S was closed in storage in summer sun, tiles expanded. When weather cooled, tiles contracted. After several years gaps between tiles got pretty large. Replaced last year with one piece vinyl sheet, at same time I replaced toilet. Works great. Something to consider: thin vinyl is a lot easier to work with compaired to thick linolium. Your A/S floor will never get the use your kitchen floor at home gets.--Frank S
I’m kind ‘a thinking about using that “Quikloc Glueless Floating Flooring” like Home Depot sells to replace the carpet in my ‘86 345 motor home. Use a waterproof membrane and a foam installation underlayment, some trim and your done (sounds easy that way). Only think I’m not sure about is the two chairs that are bolted to the floor, go around the chairs (more trim, more dirt catchers), bolt the chairs to the new floor (the sales guy said this would work but I have my doubts), or set the chairs on spacers so the floor can float under them.
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