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Old 01-04-2006, 08:10 PM   #41
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suck it up...spend the bucks... do it right the first time

Quote:
Originally Posted by loki
if I wanted to replace the floor with a vinyl flooring would it be better to use a one piece unit compared to the tiles. it seems like the tiles would run the risk of getting water under them just from general use, but they may look nicer. as with the one piece you could just lay it down then run a bead of silicon around the parimiter. also has anyone ever had their flooring tear on them. from like sliding a chair across it. it would seem that the tile would be easier to fix in this sort of instance. thanks for all of your guys feed back so far on all my threads. theres nothing like haveing years of experience and a bunch of trail and error that i wont have to go through because of you folks. thanks.
Most vinyls you buy at big box hardware stores are a very, very thin coating. But if you look for solid vinyl flooring (often found at a contractor's supply store) it will last virtually forever. Congoleum solid vinyl is an example. My mother put that stuff down on our bathroom floor when Eisenhower was in office, and the new owner of the house just replaced it. I also saw the identical stuff in Stan Hyatt mansion- which had tour groups walking on it for years. It had been down for 30 years. Also you could consider linoleum, which is made of sawdust, linseed oil and coloring - if you remember the horrible stuff in your grandmother's kitchen, remember she had it for 50 years before you were born. Linoleum does have to be waxed two or three times a year, but it does come in a lot more colors than you might expect.

Solid vinyl tiles could work, but they might also split (over time) along the seams of the plywood. I'd definitely run a thin subfloor of masonite over the plywood if you're considering this - run the seams so they never match the plywood.

Tin Lizzie
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Old 01-04-2006, 09:09 PM   #42
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flooring

have to contribute to this thread. marmoleum flooring is an excellent product. comes in both sheet style and the click tiles. have had the flooring in my kitchen for 5 years and it looks new. there is a seam stripping available in the sheet style to match most of the colors. would be good around cutout edges too. plan to use this product in the Argosy redo in the very near future, lets hear what you think of the product. they have a website,,,,,good luck all,,,happy streaming,,, dieterdog donna
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Old 01-07-2006, 05:34 PM   #43
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epoxy the sub floor

I want to use Marmoleum in the redo of my 76 Argosy 24 and have been thinking of first “super-preserving” and waterproofing the original plywood sub floor with a coat of epoxy, perhaps using the West Marine epoxy system.

It would cost about $100. to do this.

Maybe a fiberglass mesh tape could be applied over the plywood joints first.

Sergei
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Old 02-02-2006, 09:25 AM   #44
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Flexible Quarter Round Molding in Bath?

I've pulled the ugly carpet out of my small bath. Still debating on going with one-piece or tiles, but it will definitely NOT be carpeted again for the next 38 years!

Read a previous post about installing quarter round molding to clean up the edges after installation. My question concerns the contours of the 67 bath. Have they invented "flexible" quarter round that looks good, yet? I don't want to make the curves around the tub with small pieces of wooden round. What do you all think?
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Old 02-20-2006, 06:20 PM   #45
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OldThread New Question FloorSealer vs. FloorMastic

I've pulled the VAT out and am left with bare discolored (moisture evidence) plywood around the edges (where the tile wasn't) and a film residue of mastic and/or tile backing on the rest of the floor. I'd like to seal the whole area with a polyurthene sealer. One to seal the raw ply and two to encapsulate the visual mastic, until the replacement tiles are installed.

The question is, (Shari) what brand tile mastic will be compatable/adhere to/with the sealer?

I've read the back of some Henry's mastic with no base ingredients stated but a caution to remove wax and sealers! If someone knows what the mastic is made of, maybe I can find a sealer of similar composition. Right now, I'd like to go with a polyurthene if possible.
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Old 02-20-2006, 06:58 PM   #46
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flexible quarter round

Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrajb

Read a previous post about installing quarter round molding to clean up the edges after installation. My question concerns the contours of the 67 bath. Have they invented "flexible" quarter round that looks good, yet? I don't want to make the curves around the tub with small pieces of wooden round. What do you all think?
I recently had single sheet vinyl installed in the bath and kitchen of our '69 Sovereign. I'm not sure if it was the inexperienced installers or the complexity. But it has gaps all around, especially around the toilet. I have tried a flexible tub surround cove base kind of stuff but the pre-applied adhesive is not sticking. I plan to continue to try to fix it. Maybe someone will come up with something. In the kitchen I used a plastic coated foam type quarter round and it worked pretty well. There were not any real curves in the kitchen.
cheers, bill b.
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Old 02-21-2006, 06:30 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wardinbb
The question is, (Shari) what brand tile mastic will be compatable/adhere to/with the sealer?

Thanks,
Ed
Sorry, I don't know...you may want to ask a flooring installer.

Shari
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Old 02-21-2006, 06:36 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrajb
I've pulled the ugly carpet out of my small bath. Still debating on going with one-piece or tiles, but it will definitely NOT be carpeted again for the next 38 years!

Read a previous post about installing quarter round molding to clean up the edges after installation. My question concerns the contours of the 67 bath. Have they invented "flexible" quarter round that looks good, yet? I don't want to make the curves around the tub with small pieces of wooden round. What do you all think?
Couple of possibilities, one would be to steam bend a piece of molding, another involves soaking it in a chemical bath...did it years ago IIRC polyethylene glycol was the primary chemical it was marketed under the name P.E.G. Another method, but pretty involved is to split the molding into narrow strips using a band saw, make the bends and glue the strips back together.... one would never guess that I did interior trims in my deep dark past

Aaron
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Old 04-14-2006, 07:22 PM   #49
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18 inche Solid Vinyl Tile SVT Adhesive Glue ??

I have finally found and purchased some solid vinyl tiles (18"x18" SVT) --not vinyl composition tiles (VCT)-- at a local salvage store. I had originally priced same through a flooring dealer. The dealer price was $1180 for 118 sf. The salvage price was $78 for 150 sf. I just didn't get the exact color I wanted.


The flooring is by a company called "MetroFlor". The have lots of info on the net, but a I can't find a local source for adhesive. Does anyone have a recommend on an adhesive to use. I am ripping up the old self adhesive tiles (won't stay down). I will be down to raw plywood.

1. What kind of adhesive or glue should I use.

2. Should I prime, preserve or paint the plywood when I have everything up?

thanx,
Trevis Gardner
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Old 04-14-2006, 07:28 PM   #50
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Trevis.

Different tiles require different adhesives. I would suggest you take a sample to Home Depot, and check it out.

More importantly, don't put tile over one of the plywood seams. If you do, it will crack at the seams, everytime.

Andy
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Old 04-14-2006, 07:41 PM   #51
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18 inche Solid Vinyl Tile SVT Adhesive Glue ??

I have finally found and purchased some solid vinyl tiles (18"x18" SVT) --not vinyl composition tiles (VCT)-- at a local salvage store. I had originally priced same through a flooring dealer. The dealer price was $1180 for 118 sf. The salvage price was $78 for 150 sf. I just didn't get the exact color I wanted.


The flooring is by a company called "MetroFlor". The have lots of info on the net, but a I can't find a local source for adhesive. Does anyone have a recommend on an adhesive to use. I am ripping up the old self adhesive tiles (won't stay down). I will be down to raw plywood.

1. What kind of adhesive or glue should I use.

2. Should I prime, preserve or paint the plywood when I have everything up?

thanx,
Trevis Gardner
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Old 04-14-2006, 10:31 PM   #52
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Hello Safari Tim,
I have the same trouble with my armstrong cvt is it? It was the color and pattern We wanted but you need to use sheet flooring adhesive to solve the moving around an edge troubles.I found that out the hard way ,but we did different flooring in the 4 tradewind areas , rear bath , bedroom ,kitchenette, front room .So the kitchenette was redone with the adhesive. I know they had some adhesive on them but it is poor ,low tack glue.Ill second the motion about dirt in between the seems.Linoleum is a brand of flooring,but the leader in vinyl flooring since the 60s ,we all remember that brick pattern in the kitchen dont we? Now there is other brands such as armstong and marnoleum I think thats the right name .I would say to not go too cheap on the flooring with sheet vinyl .Go with high end for maximum durability ,they are not all the same ,it can and will rip if say some edgy thing dragged across it .High end grade linoleum is really tough stuff ,remember that old brick pattern,when I was a kid ,never remember a tear in it.

Scott
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Old 04-14-2006, 10:32 PM   #53
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ME again , I used sheet flooring adhesive at home depot.Worked great .

scott
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Old 04-14-2006, 10:39 PM   #54
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One more comment,

I made an error about the linolium by saying it was the leader in high end sheet vinyl ,Except that its not vinyl ,its a combination of other types of materials ,yet the best I think.

Scott
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Old 04-15-2006, 09:15 AM   #55
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Hi--Used 12"x12" vinyl stick on tile in my A/S bath about 6-years ago. Job was easy, tile looked good. Problem was when A/S was closed in storage in summer sun, tiles expanded. When weather cooled, tiles contracted. After several years gaps between tiles got pretty large. Replaced last year with one piece vinyl sheet, at same time I replaced toilet. Works great. Something to consider: thin vinyl is a lot easier to work with compaired to thick linolium. Your A/S floor will never get the use your kitchen floor at home gets.--Frank S
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Old 04-22-2006, 03:04 PM   #56
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maybe not tile or vinyl

I’m kind ‘a thinking about using that “Quikloc Glueless Floating Flooring” like Home Depot sells to replace the carpet in my ‘86 345 motor home. Use a waterproof membrane and a foam installation underlayment, some trim and your done (sounds easy that way). Only think I’m not sure about is the two chairs that are bolted to the floor, go around the chairs (more trim, more dirt catchers), bolt the chairs to the new floor (the sales guy said this would work but I have my doubts), or set the chairs on spacers so the floor can float under them.
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Old 04-23-2006, 05:36 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choctawmel
I’m kind ‘a thinking about using that “Quikloc Glueless Floating Flooring” like Home Depot sells to replace the carpet in my ‘86 345 motor home. Use a waterproof membrane and a foam installation underlayment, some trim and your done (sounds easy that way). Only think I’m not sure about is the two chairs that are bolted to the floor, go around the chairs (more trim, more dirt catchers), bolt the chairs to the new floor (the sales guy said this would work but I have my doubts), or set the chairs on spacers so the floor can float under them.
We looked at the Quickloc @ HD, but for some reason it they only have it in one color... Jury still out on whether we will attempt it in our MH.. I would go around the chair base if I go that route. Probly make a skirt of some sort to hide the cut in the carpet...
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Old 05-01-2006, 06:55 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
We looked at the Quickloc @ HD, but for some reason it they only have it in one color... Jury still out on whether we will attempt it in our MH.. I would go around the chair base if I go that route. Probly make a skirt of some sort to hide the cut in the carpet...

They got some that looks like stone, I think it was du Pont
Thought also about leaving the carpet from the front edge of the TV cabinet back to the wall. Then diagonal across to the step corner. It’s still in new condition and I may need it for sound absorption.
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Old 06-14-2006, 11:14 AM   #59
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ECOfloor is great too!

I am using ECO floor for my trailer. It is a recycled product.Made from recycled tires. Comes in about 60 colors. Good for the earth! It is flexible. You can seal it. And it comes it sheets 48" wide. $4.50 sq/ft.

Check it out
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Old 06-15-2006, 08:51 PM   #60
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new MARMOLEUM flooring

This is the new MARMOLEUM floor.

It’s wall-to-wall and seamless. We think it will be a joy to keep clean.

Because the interior has been stripped, we had the luxury of doing it this way.

The flooring runs under everything this way, even the shower pan.


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