Why is it that the CCD floor I saw was one piece of sheet goods?? Is it true also that the Airstreeam trailers 25 feet and under are a single piece of OSB now?? Would these two things be one and the same thing now and allow the single piece of sheet goods to be used.....
If this is true, I need to find a piece of OSB big enough for my Ambassador so I can use the CCD style floor.
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Tedd Ill
AIR#3788
1967/8 Overlander International Twin w/ bunk/s. Yes, four kids and two adults in the thing. Happy wife, happy life.
I have only been able to find linoleum in 2 meter wide rolls, and in my case the seam will end up mostly under cabinets and permanent furniture, so no seams (exposed). The other "plus" with true linoleum is I believe it is solid color top to bottom (except for the jute backing)(and I think sheet vinyl only has a surface pattern/color - so you can tear or wear through that surface). Armstrong has linoleum and then there's a company called Forbo that caries a linoleum called "Marmoleum" they both have great web site info . . . anyway, I'm going with a linoleum and that was my 2 cents. Would like to see what you end up with.
The other "plus" with true linoleum is I believe it is solid color top to bottom (except for the jute backing)(and I think sheet vinyl only has a surface pattern/color - so you can tear or wear through that surface). Armstrong has linoleum and then there's a company called Forbo that caries a linoleum called "Marmoleum" they both have great web site info . . . anyway, I'm going with a linoleum and that was my 2 cents. Would like to see what you end up with.
True, linoleum is solid all the way through. Most residential vinyl flooring products are layered with various grades of vinyl, paper, backing parts. Some of the commercial products (Armstrong - Classic Corlon for one) has a thicker solid face (.085) which is more durable instead of the paper-like layers so many of the 'box stores' sell.
Shari
__________________ Vintage Airstream Club - Past President 2007/2008 WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005) AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002
Check out the link in my previous post on this thread for one place that sells tiles (and there are others, too). Any Marmoleum dealer can sell you tiles as well as sheet goods. As tiles, you can feel free of the kind of concerns raised here--and enjoy all the advantages of linoleum!
Mary
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkR
I have only been able to find linoleum in 2 meter wide rolls, and in my case the seam will end up mostly under cabinets and permanent furniture, so no seams (exposed). The other "plus" with true linoleum is I believe it is solid color top to bottom (except for the jute backing)(and I think sheet vinyl only has a surface pattern/color - so you can tear or wear through that surface). Armstrong has linoleum and then there's a company called Forbo that caries a linoleum called "Marmoleum" they both have great web site info . . . anyway, I'm going with a linoleum and that was my 2 cents. Would like to see what you end up with.
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Mary Dotson, WBCCI/WDCU #9026
Our Airstream reconstruction adventure continues! Read the details at Tales of the Toaster
Mary, thanks.
What I meant to say was, I can't find linoleum wide enough to cover the whole floor w/o a seam . . . like with Sheet Vinyl (12' wide rolls).
I do like the linoleum tile better than Vinyl Comp Tile - partly because it feels softer . . . and if you're going to have seams anyway, then you can have fun with patterns/contrasting tiles.
Put in one piece of a high quality vinyl on a spotless smooth floor. We put ¼ inch ply down to cover the cracks of the original Airstream plywood, then the vinyl. It was one 17.6 foot long by 12 foot wide. I goes from under the sofa to the bed room door. It looks like a real wood floor, is easy to keep clean and does not move and has not cracked or shows dimples from chair legs and would be very hard to tear. The vinyl cost about $ 550.00, not cheap but was worth the install.
Used one piece of 12 by 24 vinyl on a bare 3/4 marine plywood floor with bondo filled joints between the ply well sanded. Checked around and the wisdom was to let it float. It will be under everything including the channel that will attach the shell and belly pan to the floor so it will have screws there. Will do on a hot day so it's at a near maximum size and pulled tight.
Has anyone tried, or does anyone know anything about the Marmoleum Click tiles? I'm going to go look at them at a local flooring store tomorrow. From what I hear, they have a cork backing and snap together like tongue and groove tiles. Supposedly, no gluing is required so I'm guessing that's like a floating floor. I've read that they come in larger planks or 12"X12" tiles.
suck it up...spend the bucks... do it right the first time
Quote:
Originally Posted by loki
if I wanted to replace the floor with a vinyl flooring would it be better to use a one piece unit compared to the tiles. it seems like the tiles would run the risk of getting water under them just from general use, but they may look nicer. as with the one piece you could just lay it down then run a bead of silicon around the parimiter. also has anyone ever had their flooring tear on them. from like sliding a chair across it. it would seem that the tile would be easier to fix in this sort of instance. thanks for all of your guys feed back so far on all my threads. theres nothing like haveing years of experience and a bunch of trail and error that i wont have to go through because of you folks. thanks.
Most vinyls you buy at big box hardware stores are a very, very thin coating. But if you look for solid vinyl flooring (often found at a contractor's supply store) it will last virtually forever. Congoleum solid vinyl is an example. My mother put that stuff down on our bathroom floor when Eisenhower was in office, and the new owner of the house just replaced it. I also saw the identical stuff in Stan Hyatt mansion- which had tour groups walking on it for years. It had been down for 30 years. Also you could consider linoleum, which is made of sawdust, linseed oil and coloring - if you remember the horrible stuff in your grandmother's kitchen, remember she had it for 50 years before you were born. Linoleum does have to be waxed two or three times a year, but it does come in a lot more colors than you might expect.
Solid vinyl tiles could work, but they might also split (over time) along the seams of the plywood. I'd definitely run a thin subfloor of masonite over the plywood if you're considering this - run the seams so they never match the plywood.
have to contribute to this thread. marmoleum flooring is an excellent product. comes in both sheet style and the click tiles. have had the flooring in my kitchen for 5 years and it looks new. there is a seam stripping available in the sheet style to match most of the colors. would be good around cutout edges too. plan to use this product in the Argosy redo in the very near future, lets hear what you think of the product. they have a website,,,,,good luck all,,,happy streaming,,, dieterdog donna
I want to use Marmoleum in the redo of my 76 Argosy 24 and have been thinking of first “super-preserving” and waterproofing the original plywood sub floor with a coat of epoxy, perhaps using the West Marine epoxy system.
It would cost about $100. to do this.
Maybe a fiberglass mesh tape could be applied over the plywood joints first.
I've pulled the ugly carpet out of my small bath. Still debating on going with one-piece or tiles, but it will definitely NOT be carpeted again for the next 38 years!
Read a previous post about installing quarter round molding to clean up the edges after installation. My question concerns the contours of the 67 bath. Have they invented "flexible" quarter round that looks good, yet? I don't want to make the curves around the tub with small pieces of wooden round. What do you all think?
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