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Old 06-05-2013, 04:04 PM   #29
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1981 31' Excella II
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Ok I just talked to TOP (Lance) and he says that the hold down plate is welded to the frame. If this is the case, then you are all right with what you have. I would verify this.

Perry
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:24 PM   #30
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Great to hear! Thanks for your help!
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:51 AM   #31
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Can you see where the hold down plate is welded to the frame?

Perry
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:33 AM   #32
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1976 Argosy 28
Milton , Ontario
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'L' Shaped Steel Plate...

Just to clarify things about the 'L' shaped steel plate, front & rear, and the bolts securing the shell to the frame, at least on my trailer.

I am currently replacing the back sheet of plywood on the rear of my '76 Argosy and this steel plate is NOT welded to the frame...only bolted with 1/4" hardware and riveted to the shell.

There are also two 3/8" bolts that have steel pads that were bolted through this steel plate, see picture. In the picture you can see the corner of the steel plate.

When I put everything back together, I plan to move those 3/8" bolts just a little (outbound) to pick-up the frame rail that extends out to the bumper. that way I know the shell is securly fastened to the frame.

Chris
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:33 AM   #33
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Well are you sure the front hold down plate is not welded? What you are describing is how I understood it but I have never had the front apart. I know the back plate is not welded but held on with screws.

Perry
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Old 06-06-2013, 03:38 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newsgauger View Post
I am currently replacing the back sheet of plywood on the rear of my '76 Argosy and this steel plate is NOT welded to the frame...only bolted with 1/4" hardware and riveted to the shell.

There are also two 3/8" bolts that have steel pads that were bolted through this steel plate, see picture. In the picture you can see the corner of the steel plate.
This is the exact same setup as mine in the rear. I have not checked on the welded front plate yet. Everything is already back down and secured at this point. Anyone else have any info on this from experience?
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:43 PM   #35
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1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
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As I did'ent have your rotting floor issue, I went in from below....dropped the belly pan, aft banana wraps and side raps.
My frame, axel, wheel wells etc were just starting to show signes of rust so I figured it would be best to "nip it in the bud".
It was not too hard (except I did it in the middle of winter on a cold concrete floor).
GO WITH FOIL BACKED STYRO FOAM - I did and I installed it by cutting over size a smidgen and "bowing it" between lateral frames....it's not going anywhere and if the floor ever gets wet it'll be able to dry out. Here's pics.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:46 PM   #36
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try again with the pics. Still need to paint the new side wraps and get the trim back on.
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:58 PM   #37
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Where are all the shell off gurus when we need them.

Perry
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:01 AM   #38
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Don't See 3/8" Bolts...

Crabbey1,

I revisited all of you pictures of the front and I do not see where the two 3/8" bolts and hold down plates are. Does this mean there were none on your trailer?

Are they only in the back?

Chris

PS Nice job on replacing the plywood floor and re-insulating.
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:21 AM   #39
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If you look at the picture you posted in post #32, the small rusted plate that you are pointing out is not present in the front of my trailer. There were however elevator bolts, one in each corner. It does however have a hold down plate as we discussed in post #27 that is riveted to the shell and then apparently it is welded to the frame (I did not verify this before securing everything down)... Hope that helps.

Thanks for the kind words.
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:06 PM   #40
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I am doing a shell on rehab-68 GT, I left the middle third of the belly pans attached
I por-15ed from the top -and bottom where I could, I was concerned about re-insulating from the top as well- which would soak water and rats, so I left it un- insulated since I live in Florida, I now see that if I ever want to insulate I could do it later from underneath(A lot of box camper floors are not insulated). I now know it is not that big a deal to remove belly skins= a drill and a couple of hours and they're off.
I will tell you though, none of my side bolts went through the outriggers and the channel! My origianal outriggers were about an inch shy of the edge of the body anyway (originally) I would hope it was through bolted in the back and the front (my back frame was gone and the front piece of subfloor I left in.
I through-bolted a few side riggers and the very back C to the frame, but most of the sides are just through the plywood and then elevator bolted through the riggers as close to them as possible, the shell aint goin nowhere, it's better attached than before. I was amazed at how few attachment points there were.
Have y'all noticed the staples the factory put through the C channel? I guess they were mostly for positioning??
Good job-- hope that helps.
Has anyone noticed how por 15 soaks into plywood and gets hard as a rock and water sheds right off!?-I thought about using it as an edge treatment.
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Old 06-07-2013, 05:03 PM   #41
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There are not enough attachment points and that is why things fail when rust happens or rear bath trailers are run with full tanks. The outriggers should be connected at the ends and there should be a bolt every few inches.

Perry


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Originally Posted by luvoldstuff View Post
I am doing a shell on rehab-68 GT, I left the middle third of the belly pans attached
I por-15ed from the top -and bottom where I could, I was concerned about re-insulating from the top as well- which would soak water and rats, so I left it un- insulated since I live in Florida, I now see that if I ever want to insulate I could do it later from underneath(A lot of box camper floors are not insulated). I now know it is not that big a deal to remove belly skins= a drill and a couple of hours and they're off.
I will tell you though, none of my side bolts went through the outriggers and the channel! My origianal outriggers were about an inch shy of the edge of the body anyway (originally) I would hope it was through bolted in the back and the front (my back frame was gone and the front piece of subfloor I left in.
I through-bolted a few side riggers and the very back C to the frame, but most of the sides are just through the plywood and then elevator bolted through the riggers as close to them as possible, the shell aint goin nowhere, it's better attached than before. I was amazed at how few attachment points there were.
Have y'all noticed the staples the factory put through the C channel? I guess they were mostly for positioning??
Good job-- hope that helps.
Has anyone noticed how por 15 soaks into plywood and gets hard as a rock and water sheds right off!?-I thought about using it as an edge treatment.
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