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Old 05-31-2013, 07:16 PM   #15
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Well paint the top of the frame rails carefully so you don't glue the skins on. The rest you can get to from underneath but it is a messy job and POR15 WILL NOT COME OFF your skin unless you use a belt sander. It has to wear off.

Perry
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:58 PM   #16
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What type of foamboard? Maybe 1" foil backed?
I have not done this myself, but I would use 2" blue or pink styrofoam. It is a closed cell foam so a moisture barrier is moot. There may be something to be said for a refective barrier, in which case I would add Reflectix.
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:54 PM   #17
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... They will all be screwed back into the frame with the E-Bolt style screws that Vintage Trailer Supply sells.
What are you going to do in order to bolt thru the C channel, the floor and the out riggers? IMHO, the bolts that go through all 3 are probably the most important fasteners in the construction of an Airstream, otherwise the only thing holding on the shell are a bunch of wood screws right at the edge of the floor...

I cant see a method to do this with the belly pan still in place.

I've seen folks start down this path but never seen the final outcome.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:40 PM   #18
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Final decisions.

What a rough weekend. My body feels wrecked. I also found a new friend (see first photo)...

Well, here is my final choices for the floor. I used a combination of a hand wire brush and a drill wire bit to remove all the rust. Then I painted with Rust Destroyer. I was local and supposedly eco friendly. Next, I measured and cut the 2" Foam Insulation with Foil. Most of them fit very tightly. I filled all edges and voids with cans of Insulation Spray Foam. Finally, I brought in ACX plywood that had 2 layers of Penetrating Polyurethane applied. I used the screws from Vintage Trailer Supply. I pre-drilled holes and tapped the frame so they screw right in and tighten everything together.

I completed the first section on Sunday and I am currently on the 3rd section. I will update when fully complete.
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Old 06-04-2013, 12:06 AM   #19
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That looks pretty dang good.
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:59 AM   #20
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I took all the pick stuff out. There’s not enough there to make any difference. It make a better mouse house than anything else. P.O.R. all the places you can reach. Unless your going to live in it full time in the great north, you should be o.k. Just FYI
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:16 PM   #21
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That looks pretty dang good.
Thanks! Putting in the work. I just hope that the screws tapping into the frame are enough to hold it all together...
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:35 PM   #22
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There are two big bolts in each corner and the steel hold down plate should be attached to the frame. I think it is a little different than in the back. The steel plate may just go straight down and attach to the cross member instead of folding under like at the back. You need to make sure that the two big bolts are there and that they go through the floor. The hold down plate needs to be attached to the frame.

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Old 06-05-2013, 12:50 PM   #23
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Perry, I have hold down plates in the rear but there were none up front. I plan on reimplementing them in the rear... Do you see any danger in using the machine screws and doubling or tripling up on them as opposed to the original bolts? I am talking actual danger as in the trailer ripping off the frame going down the highway...
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:17 PM   #24
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The steel hold down plate is there in the center. How was it originally attached. You could have problems with front end separation if you don't have the shell bolted to the frame via the hold down plate and the two bolts on either side of the hold down plate. I have never had the front of one of these apart and I don't know the differences between Argosy and Airstreams. I do know that bolts should go through the C-channel, floor, hold down plate, and frame. I would not use anything smaller than 1/4" machine screws through the hold down plate. Maybe someone will chime in who has delt with front end separation. It would be that red plate in this photo of yours. I don't think the deck screws are going to get it. Are they just going through the C-channel into the floor?

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Old 06-05-2013, 01:27 PM   #25
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I understand now. I thought that you were referring to the individual plates sized at about 1" x 2" that help distribute the weight...

As for the front hold down plate, I have 6 of these screws through washers that go through the C-Channel, floor, hold down plate and then they are tapped into the frame. I plan to do the same in the rear. How does this sound? Secure...?
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:50 PM   #26
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Were there two large bolts that went through the frame? They should be on the outside edge of the two vertical posts that are on each side of the hold down plate. You could call the factory and they could tell you how your model trailer should be held together. Some folks had good luck calling the factory for technical issues such as this. I looked at the repair manuals last night and they did not provide much detail as to wear the bolts go. The disadvantage to not pulling the skin at the front is you can't get to alot of these bolts. You can tap the frame rails for 1/4-20 but that is not going to be a very strong connection nor are self tapping screws. What you have done with the floor looks pretty good but lets make sure you do it right and don't end up with a mess on your hands. I think on my trailer and from the looks of it, your trailer, that the hold down plate is T-shaped and then the bottom is bent in the shape of an L. The ears of the T-would then connect to the frame on outside of those two posts. The main attach points would then be those two big bolts I have been telling you about. These would go through the C-channel the floor the hold down plate then the frame. I think the ends of the frame members are open so you can get to the nuts on the bottom. Are those bolts still there or did you remove them?

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Old 06-05-2013, 02:44 PM   #27
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Yes my Hold Down Plate is T Shaped with and L bend at the bottom where it attaches to the frame and floor and C Channel... I believe that there were two Elevators bolts at the points you mention. I have cut all E-Bolts and I am replacing them all with the machine screws mentioned in post #25. My philosophy being that even though the machine screws are not as strong as the E-Bolts, I can double up on them to try to match the original strength. I am a little worried about them rattling or shaking during movement, so I plan to add lock-tite to keep them in place.
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Old 06-05-2013, 03:21 PM   #28
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I think you can remove the belly band and remove some pop rivets and the skin will fold down enough get to the frame rails to put a bolt through. You could even attach the hold down plate directly to the frame and do it that way. The sheet metal screws worry me a good bit.

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