Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-12-2012, 12:36 AM   #43
Rivet Master
 
purman's Avatar
 
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
I'm puting plywood back in. 7 sheets of 5/8 for around $200. I painted he bottom with bed liner. I rolled it on. Totally waterproof now, I also did the sides with it. Then painted the top with exterior paint. About $100 more. So for $300 I have a waterproof floor that should last longer than the original, which was close to 40 years.

I just don't see the advantages of these other products when plywood can be treated to make it watertight for less money?

Just my thoughts.
__________________

__________________
Jason

May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
purman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 12:40 AM   #44
Rivet Master
 
purman's Avatar
 
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
I'm putting plywood back in. 7 sheets cost me $200. I rolled on bed liner on the bottom and sides. Totally waterproof now. Then painted the top with exterior paint. Waterproof again for around $100. Total investment of $300 for a floor that will last well over 50 years.

Just don't see the advantage of trying something new at 2-10 times the cost.

Just my thoughts.
__________________

__________________
Jason

May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
purman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 06:09 AM   #45
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 11,153
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by purman View Post
I'm putting plywood back in. 7 sheets cost me $200. I rolled on bed liner on the bottom and sides. Totally waterproof now. Then painted the top with exterior paint. Waterproof again for around $100. Total investment of $300 for a floor that will last well over 50 years.

Just don't see the advantage of trying something new at 2-10 times the cost.

Just my thoughts.

Jason,

Two floors or just two posts?

Nothing wrong with plywood if done correctly, Dad had a PW fishing pram that lasted over 30yrs with no rot.

Bob
__________________
PFC.....

“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
RLC

Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
but I’m the Husband, so we went to Cleveland.
RLC
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 09:21 AM   #46
4 Rivet Member
 
timzog's Avatar
 
1980 20' Caravelle
Ogden , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 422
Blog Entries: 20
Al sheet

Click image for larger version

Name:	Al ply floor table.jpg
Views:	235
Size:	47.4 KB
ID:	160805
For what it is worth, here is the Al sheet vs plywood span and weight table I put together for my project.
__________________
timzog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 10:16 AM   #47
2 Rivet Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
Duluth , Minnesota
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post

Mark,

How do you plan to "finish" your nilo-bored?

Bob
Bob: Funny you should ask me this since I just tried to redirect the threat to it's original topic of Sub-Floor and away from the topic of finished floor. Of course, sub-floor material choice may affect the options that can be successfully applied to the finished floor. I think one could put anything they wanted over the Nylosheet. Adhesives need to be chosen carefully to ensure a good bond if the flooring is to be glued down. Maybe I'll use Nylon carpet!

Russ- Aluminum composites are intriguing. I think the thickness differential could be made up in many ways. There are options that are full thickness. Weight savings would be huge with the one you gave in your example. The polypropylene and polycarbonate core versions are also interesting.

The perfect sub-floor material should have these properties:

1) Waterproof
2) Does not support microbial (mold, fungus, bacteria) growth
3) As strong or stronger than the original material
4) Lightweight
5) Able to withstand fastening in the original manner or an acceptable alternative manner.
6) Good insulator
7) Able to be perforated (for toilet flange, wiring, etc.) without compromising the material's other beneficial properties.
8) Able to be finished in any way desired.
9) Be compatible with aluminum and steel
10) Be cost effective

...any other ideas, please add to the list.
__________________
Bunkroom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 11:22 AM   #48
Rivet Master
 
Wayward's Avatar
 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Cary , North Carolina
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 803
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunkroom View Post
1) Waterproof
2) Does not support microbial (mold, fungus, bacteria) growth
3) As strong or stronger than the original material
4) Lightweight
5) Able to withstand fastening in the original manner or an acceptable alternative manner.
6) Good insulator
7) Able to be perforated (for toilet flange, wiring, etc.) without compromising the material's other beneficial properties.
8) Able to be finished in any way desired.
9) Be compatible with aluminum and steel
10) Be cost effective
Good list! I am sure Airstream balances pretty much the same list except leaves off #1 and seems to not be avoiding #2 which does not affect any of the others.

In an enclosed trailer, plywood treated with #2 would solve nearly all the floor rot problems without needing to be water proof. In my bath remodeling work, I first fix the water problem permanently (in nearly all cases the floor should never have even gotten wet and it usually due to bad workmanship or poor maintenance). I then replace all rotted subflooring with either pressure treated T&G plywood or exterior T&G plywood treated with borate. They do not rot.

Teak is still a deck of choice for boaters. It provide both structural support and good looks. Not waterproof, but a rot resistant wood treated only with oil finish on one side to protect it yet still be sure it can dry out quickly.

Come to think of it, has anyone used rot resistant T&G flooring like Teak, Cedar, or Brazilian Cherry? No need for finish floor on top.
Lumber Liquidators Brazilian Teak
__________________
2006 Safari SE FB
2000 F150 4.2L
2011 F250 6.2L
Raleigh, NC
Wayward is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 12:09 PM   #49
Rivet Master
 
Wayward's Avatar
 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Cary , North Carolina
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 803
Anyone using this? I am thinking from looking at it that all edges need to be supported, which would take some extra blocking work unless it was a shell-off job.

Cosmolite from TekModo
__________________
2006 Safari SE FB
2000 F150 4.2L
2011 F250 6.2L
Raleigh, NC
Wayward is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 03:58 PM   #50
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,840
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayward View Post
Come to think of it, has anyone used rot resistant T&G flooring like Teak, Cedar, or Brazilian Cherry? No need for finish floor on top.
Lumber Liquidators Brazilian Teak
Cedar and redwood are water resistant, but soft woods that need short spans or there will be excessive deflection. Cedar splinters easily and makes for a bad surface floor. It makes good fencing and decking, but not flooring. Redwood is better, but too soft for a long lasting floor.

Brazilian woods have sometimes been renamed for US consumption. Brazilian cherry is not the cherry we know. Ipé is used for decking and is water resistant and is easier to find than some exotic woods.

The idea of combining subfloor and surface flooring has possibilities. But you would need different thickness where there are cabinets and walls and the rest of the floor. Our trailer had a very thin (1/8" at most) sheet vinyl surface, so the surface exposed to view should be at least 1/8", maybe more where there was carpet. If you use planking for a subfloor, it will not be as strong as plywood unless (perhaps; I'm guessing some of this) you use hardwood. That will be very heavy. Maybe ipé would work as a subfloor as it is considered hardwood. Then bond with waterproof glue oak plywood where you walk, but the oak is very thin with a pine core. It comes in 1/4 sheets; I think the other side is mahogany. I'm not sure the seams between the oak plywood would look right. Or maybe thin strips of ipé glued to the planks. You would have some open joints between the planks and the passage of air and moisture might be a bad thing. Combining the subfloor and surface flooring is interesting, but needs some work to find a good solution.

Gene
__________________
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 06:03 PM   #51
Rivet Master
 
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville , New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,009
Gene it would depend on the trailer for that, on my parents 93 it appears Airstream put in carpet on the entire floor then put the cabinets and beds on top of it.
__________________
Wazbro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 07:07 PM   #52
Rivet Master
 
dkottum's Avatar
 
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,716
Trouble with floors of aluminum sheet, plastic product, or painted/varnished plywood is they are vapor barriers and may sweat under certain temperature differentials and humidity conditions, unfortunate because unlike houses, Airstreams travel to all climates. If under a vinyl floor they would also prevent even a small amount of moisture to escape. Not sure waterproofing the edges is a good idea as this is where it can also "breathe".

Treated plywood panels today use a copper preservative that is very corrosive to metal, not compatible with shell and frame.

Aluminum flooring of any kind would be corrosive anywhere it meets a dissimilar metal, with difficulty fastening trailer components to it.

Tough call, the standard plywood may be the best all around choice. I think covering it with vinyl is the greatest error. A breathable, easily cleaned and replaced, and handsome covering would be best. I'm for sturdy tatami mats.

doug k
__________________
dkottum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 09:47 PM   #53
Rivet Master
 
purman's Avatar
 
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
I can tell you there was little moisture left in my plywood. with 10% humidity or less stuff dries out quick around here. So I figure sealed in, sealed out. And moisture goes in a lot faster than it can ever get out. So when I travel to humid climates it can't get in... And the edges are the first place you want to seal. There the first to go. Don't treat the rest if you don't want to but the edges are a must.
__________________
Jason

May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
purman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2012, 11:19 AM   #54
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,840
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Trouble with floors of aluminum sheet, plastic product, or painted/varnished plywood is they are vapor barriers and may sweat under certain temperature differentials and humidity conditions, unfortunate because unlike houses, Airstreams travel to all climates. If under a vinyl floor they would also prevent even a small amount of moisture to escape. Not sure waterproofing the edges is a good idea as this is where it can also "breathe".

Treated plywood panels today use a copper preservative that is very corrosive to metal, not compatible with shell and frame.

Aluminum flooring of any kind would be corrosive anywhere it meets a dissimilar metal, with difficulty fastening trailer components to it.

Tough call, the standard plywood may be the best all around choice. I think covering it with vinyl is the greatest error. A breathable, easily cleaned and replaced, and handsome covering would be best. I'm for sturdy tatami mats.

doug k
A lot of good points Doug.

Metal and maybe plastic would have the highest condensation and could be dripping into the belly pan.

I can't recall who, but one frequent poster just put throw rugs on the subfloor. I used removable vinyl planks.

If you use any kind of pressure treated wood, wear a good mask when you cut it because that nasty preservative in the sawdust will be quite breathable.

I think plywood breathes if only the top is coated. But if you treated all sides and any holes and cuts, moisture should stay out and not be a problem. My understanding of waterproofing treatments is they fill the air spaces in the wood and that prevents water intrusion. Waterproofing needs to be done well or enough water will find a way inside. Even here in Delta Co. where Jason and I live (not together) with its usually very low humidity, there are humid days, and when traveling, there will be more, if only from showers, cooking, breathing. If I could seal the edges, I would, but I'm not doing a frame off.

I look at the floor as less important than sealing the trailer. A leaker can cause more problems than a rotted floor. Do a good job with the floor, but do the best job on the leaks.

Gene
__________________
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2012, 01:28 PM   #55
Rivet Master
 
Silverflames's Avatar

 
1969 29' Ambassador
brooksville , Florida
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,262
Has any on ever laminated a sheet of PT plywood with sheets of aluminum? Effectively making the top and bottom completely water prof? Then seal the sides and cut outs with paint or epoxy? It would make a nice shiny floor!
__________________
Not all those who wonder are lost.
Silverflames is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2012, 01:33 PM   #56
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,840
Quote:
Originally Posted by keithgrowe View Post
Has any on ever laminated a sheet of PT plywood with sheets of aluminum? Effectively making the top and bottom completely water prof? Then seal the sides and cut outs with paint or epoxy? It would make a nice shiny floor!
A cold one too. And condensation may be a problem. How would you bond the aluminum to the plywood so water doesn't infiltrate between the layers?

Gene
__________________

__________________
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:04 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.