Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-19-2016, 12:28 AM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Redmond , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 16
Tyvek, vapor barriers and sealants for floor. What works best?

What do you folks think about using something like Tyvec siding cover or some other similar product on the perimeter of the plywood to prevent moisture from seeping into the ends? I'm doing a full-Monty on a 73 Streamline Crown Imperial and although I'm still wrestling with welding up frame repairs I want this thing to be damn near a submarine when I'm done. Any other ideas for making sure the wood is a rot resistant as humanly possible? What kinds of sealants do you recommend?
WhatidIdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2016, 06:58 AM   #2
4 Rivet Member
 
youngpeck's Avatar
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Salt Lake City , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 398
A good poly spar varnish (which will flex) applied all the way around, a foot or so in from, out to, and on the edges, both sides, four or five coats. We used 3/4-inch marine grade plywood. There is a wealth of info on these forums about this issue.
youngpeck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 07:47 PM   #3
1 Rivet Member
 
SkatiePower's Avatar
 
beecher , Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 15
We are in the middle of a restoration. We plan to coat 3/4" plywood (not marine) with epoxy, including all edges. I read that 1.5 gallons should do my 34'. There are so many opinions on how the floor should be done though, I doubt you will find the straight forward answer you're looking for.
Composite plywood would probably be ideal if it's in your price range.

As far as sealants, check out this thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ry-116214.html
I've also heard that Seamermate works well and is available at any hardware store
SkatiePower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 08:52 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
TheGreatleys's Avatar
 
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,042
My entire floor is regular exterior grade bc plywood encased in several coats of west system epoxy. Very happy with the result, especially after some of the leaks we had.

I installed some butyl membrane called Protecto Wrap around the rear edge of the subfloor where water tends to penetrate behind the bumber. It's made for sealing the rough openings of windows in houses. You can buy it at the big box hardware store. I think that's better than Tyvek because it actually sticks to the wood, which should help prevent moisture getting trapped between the membrane and the wood.
TheGreatleys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 09:40 PM   #5
4 Rivet Member
 
arktos55343's Avatar
 
1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins , Minnesota
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 458
I also used 3/4 inch marine grade plywood. Then I painted both sides and all exposed edges with oil based porch paint. And as a last measure, I also wrapped the edges of the sub-floor with the butyl rubber window wrap. Lastly, I covered the horizontal surfaces (top of the rails and stringers) of the frame with strips of the butyl rubber window wrap, so if any water or moisture would get trapped between the sub-floor and the frame, it will not rust the frame. The frame itself was sand blasted and then epoxy coated / painted.
arktos55343 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 09:59 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
cameront120's Avatar
 
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver , British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
Images: 23
Tyvek and other building membranes are porous (vapour open) to allow for trapped moisture to escape from wall cavities and won't necessarily keep moisture from the wood subfloor. Vapour barriers are another animal altogether.
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
cameront120 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2016, 12:22 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
SuzyHomemakr's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Boynton Beach , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 568
Ah, to live in perfect world, where we we fixed a problem it was fixed forever!

I think it would impossible to absolutely seal down a Tyvec (or any other plastic) sheet to so that it never, ever came up, got a hole, was rubbed wrong, cracked or flexed apart. Then, even the slightest amount of water that got in would stay in! Rot and Mildew, your table is ready!

In my opinion, you want the faces of the new ply to breathe, but the edges to be impervious to water soaking in. Airstream has thoughtfully provided a joint in the skin right at floor level in my trailer, and made sure that water wouldn't be left out by adding a trim piece on the outside to trap and funnel any stray drops inside.

To answer your question, I would suggest using a penetrating epoxy on the edges. This thinned down epoxy is usually used to try and restore rotted wood. I've found that epoxyproducts.com delivers great coatings, and have used their products for years. You know it's a quality item, because they obviously spend their money on R&D, not on website design.

For an absolute overkill answer, if you're going shell-off, install old-school Linoleum, or the like. This comes in a huge roll, so it would be a single sheet, no place for water to get through! Before the fastidious pooh-pooh this idea, check out the work done by Winick in "Custom Airstream Interiors". It's gorgeous!
SuzyHomemakr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2016, 01:08 PM   #8
Rivet Master
 
2012 23' FB International
Woodstock , Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,423
I seem to recall an Airstream article that showed they put a plastic sheeting barrier around the edge before attaching the aluminum channel. Sounds like a really good idea for protecting the outer edge that is exposed somewhat inside the banana wrap.
JCW
JCWDCW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2016, 01:59 PM   #9
Rivet Master
 
cameront120's Avatar
 
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver , British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
Images: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCWDCW View Post
I seem to recall an Airstream article that showed they put a plastic sheeting barrier around the edge before attaching the aluminum channel. Sounds like a really good idea for protecting the outer edge that is exposed somewhat inside the banana wrap.
JCW
That same plastic will also prevent water inside from escaping and will trap water against the wood. Best treat the wood to prevent it from absorbing water in the first place because the water will find a way inside the trailer and the floor assembly.
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
cameront120 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2016, 02:27 PM   #10
Rivet Master
 
Dingo Girl's Avatar
 
1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,552
Images: 3
I used 5/8 ACX plywood as recommended by several forum members, the I coated the edges in 2 feet with Smiths Penetrating Epoxy.
I made a couple sample pieces and threw them outside under the eve on the north side of my garden shed. A year and a half later in all kinds of Michigan weather there is no sign of damage to the wood at all. I'm happy with that result.
My new trailer floor will out live me.
Dingo Girl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2016, 10:47 PM   #11
4 Rivet Member
 
Native143's Avatar
 
2013 20' Flying Cloud
2014 16' Sport
2019 23' Flying Cloud
Dunedin , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 342
Images: 1
Curiosity got the better of me

In all the above posts, are you writing about restoring your older AS, as my brand new one is presently in the shop having new floors put in due to rotted floors. Is this really common in AS???
Native143 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2016, 04:13 AM   #12
Rivet Master
 
Dingo Girl's Avatar
 
1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,552
Images: 3
What I've been told is "they all leak".
Mine is a 67 and the floor at the perimeter was literally powder.
Dingo Girl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2016, 10:46 AM   #13
Rivet Master
 
cameront120's Avatar
 
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver , British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
Images: 23
Yes, they all leak. Multiple sheets of aluminum, punctured by thousands of rivets, several windows, hatches and a door. Even with sealant, something will eventually fail. Even without leaks, condensation on the interior skins can be a problem. Each aluminum rib is a thermal bridge which compounds the problem. The best you can do is monitor and repair leaks before they cause damage.
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
cameront120 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2016, 11:06 AM   #14
3 Rivet Member
 
adobehome's Avatar
 
1962 19' Globetrotter
New River , Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 136
Images: 1
We used Coosa board instead of wood on our '62 GT. A marine product. Expensive, but, will never have to replace. Ever. Worth the expense. Though I complained about it at the time.
__________________
Judy
'62 GT
adobehome is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2016, 06:08 PM   #15
1 Rivet Member
 
1960 Caravel
Lehi , Utah
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 16
Which of the Coosa boards did you go with? I see they have multiple densities to choose from. I was initially looking at Nyloboard, but they went out of business prior to ordering.
Jake Holt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2016, 10:55 PM   #16
3 Rivet Member
 
adobehome's Avatar
 
1962 19' Globetrotter
New River , Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 136
Images: 1
Hi, Jake. I'll have to look it up. We did the subfloor about 7 years ogo. I'll post it for you, here, tomorrow.
__________________
Judy
'62 GT
adobehome is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2016, 08:29 AM   #17
2 Rivet Member
 
Kemblkr's Avatar
 
2003 22' International
South Bend , Indiana
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 78
Spar urethane all around (edges, top & bottom on any grade of plywood will do the trick. I would apply several coats to the edge and about 6 inches from the edges of the plywood.

I would then apply two coats to the remaining floor unless you are gluing the entire new flooring down. If you do a full glue down the adhesive will act as a moisture barrier.


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
Kemblkr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2016, 01:46 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
SuzyHomemakr's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Boynton Beach , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 568
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kemblkr View Post
Spar urethane all around (edges, top & bottom on any grade of plywood will do the trick. I would apply several coats to the edge and about 6 inches from the edges of the plywood.

I would then apply two coats to the remaining floor unless you are gluing the entire new flooring down. If you do a full glue down the adhesive will act as a moisture barrier.
I did a full glue-down install of my bamboo flooring. Due to the trailer flexing and a non-flat sub-floor, I get a popping noise when I step on certain spots, when it momentarily re-glues itself, and then floor pops away from the bamboo when I move off of the spot. Otherwise, all is good. Though bamboo isn't as impervious to water as I'd like. Some water got under the door mat, and pulled up some of the finish.

I've always hated the "foot-feel" of a floating floor, but it may be a better solution than the glue-down that I did.
SuzyHomemakr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2016, 09:46 AM   #19
2 Rivet Member
 
1960 24' Tradewind
Tipp City , Ohio
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 26
I just finished putting a 4-5 inch perimeter coating of my 5/8" ACX plywood with West System 2 part epoxy, top & bottom & edge. On the rest of the plywood, I am applying multiple coats of Waterlox, Marine sealer. This is "old school" stuff, basically tung oil. Should protect against water penetration and in those areas where surface is broken (screw holes, etc.) will allow moisture to escape.
streaming24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2016, 09:50 AM   #20
2 Rivet Member
 
1960 24' Tradewind
Tipp City , Ohio
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 26
My question is regarding the "flatness of the sub-floor before installing the linoleum (now marmolium. Has anyone installed a mahogany / luan underlayment before the sheet goods? What other floor leveling tricks have you used?
streaming24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sound Barriers Don Landis Generators & Solar Power 6 08-29-2017 12:12 PM
Vapor lock fix? Jenniflow General Motorhome Topics 12 05-30-2012 05:17 AM
Does vinyl flooring create a vapor barrier? eastbound Floor Finishes 2 12-09-2009 07:04 PM
Vapor density of battery gas. bertro Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 6 04-15-2009 03:11 PM
Water or Vapor Barrier for Cork Floor Hollys124 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 4 07-27-2006 08:01 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.