You didn't say how it was treated. However, consider that using wolmanized (green stuff, as in Copper Naphthenate could have a strong corrosive reaction when in direct contact with aluminum. I understand you can even turn the two into a battery given the proper conditions (Google copper bottom paint and aluminum boats http://www.finishing.com/295/28.shtml ). If the flooring was plywood treated with "Woodlife" or Olympic Stain Wood Preservative, then just about any corrosion resistant fastener should work, simply because the fastener would chemically react with the aluminum it touches and not the wood. In any case with the exception of copper naphthenate treatment, my choice would be stainless steel marine fasteners. It's the "most right" way that comes to mind.
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2002 Toyota Tundra Not that Bob Thompson, the other Bob Thompson!
I was all set to put pressure treated plywood down in our 1970 31' when I was lucky and lots of people here brought up that it is not good with aluminum. Don't know if that is what you are useing but there is a post in the flooring area somewhere.
I just replace the rear floor in my 68 TW. After many hours on the forums searching for the best materials I wnt with a first quality AC exterior ply. I after fitting the pieces, which took a while, I did two things. First, around all the exterior edges for width of about 6 inches top and bottom, I applies 2 coats of West System epoxy resin. This sealed the edges and gave a water proof edge in case of leaks later one. Also made the edges very slick and they went into the channel much easier during final installation. Next I coated both sides with a urethane spar varnish, 3 coats, sanding lighly between coats. After installing the floor we have had a lot of rain, and I still had a leak or two. Water just beaded up, no damage. As for bolts, I used both the elevator type bolts and the self tapping flooring bolts from Vintage Tailer supply. The self tapping type can be purchased at Home Depot, but not in the size that Vintage sells.
Barring the chemistry of long term metal contact, preservative treated woods just aren't used in human occupied structures from the out-gassing of metal salts, their daughter elements & carrier fluids used to permeate the wood grain fogging out (as intended) over their lifetime
Those products are shipped and sold wet intentionally so their shrinkage helps lock the structure together by putting tension on all the fasteners - if allowed to free air dry warpage is extreme unless its racked and well seasoned - but you would still be ingesting the preservatives.
If you are making a wrecked AS into a garden shed perhaps painting all metal contact areas with several coats of POR-15 and using SS or coated fasteners would give a long term solution to structural problems - and sealing the exposed flooring wood surface with porch paint to make it friendlier..
Most stainless steel bolts are at least grade 4, the machine thread hex head bolts I found cheap at a HW store closing are grade 4-1/2 and are doing fine - the painful part was paying for heavy SS washers and nuts...
We went with the good old fashioned (and comparatively inexpensive) regular plywood and are working diligintly to fix all of the leaks...I admit we did Thompson water seal the bottom of the sheets, but otherwise figure the rest of the stuff is overkill if you plan to take care of your rig...
And the other posters on treated lumber were 100% correct...
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