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Old 10-31-2008, 08:51 AM   #1
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1962 16' Bambi
Merritt Island , Florida
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Tools, Equipment, Supplies

I am beginning (again) a full shell-off floor replacement on my 62 Bambi. I have already stripped most of the inside and now I am finalizing plans to do allot over the holidays. I have read allot of post and I have a good idea of how it will go (thanks to this forum) but what I would really like is a full equipment/supply list so I can go ahead and order what I don't have. I will continue to extracting a list from the different threads but will anyone who is fimiliar please add to my (pitifull so far) list?

This, I think, is a start of basic "traditional method" list. I know there are plenty of different opinions but please feel free to add anything.

Drill bits (#21, other sizes, sources)
Rivets (sizes, sources)
Air riveter (source)
Shaving tool (source)
elevator bolts (size, sources)
5/8 marine plywood
hidden rivet remover (source)
POR -15
Sealer
Paint for frame and tougue (color?)
Aluminum for "C" channel (size)
insulation (R-?)
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Old 10-31-2008, 10:28 AM   #2
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1959 26' Overlander
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sources and stuff

Check out airparts and aircraft spruce for tools and aluminum. Vintage Trailer supply will have the elevator bolts.

Don't forget a forstner bit to countersink the heads of the elevator bolts. Also, you should use nylon washers and shrink-wrap to electrically isolate the bolts that hold the c-channel to the plywood to the outriggers.

Finally, you can make your own c-channel to size by bending aluminum with a metal brake. I got mine from Harbor Freight. If you only plan to use a tool a few times, it's ok to get it there, otherwise get a real one.

Good luck.

John
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Old 10-31-2008, 11:17 AM   #3
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I used stainless steel bolts for the C-Channel with square aluminum spreader washers that just slipped into the channel to anchor the rear shell when I put mine back together, along with identical washers underneath to keep the plywood from deforming where there where no outriggers.
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Old 10-31-2008, 01:11 PM   #4
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1962 16' Bambi
Merritt Island , Florida
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Thanks, does anyone know the appropriate elevator bolt and rivet sizes?
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Old 10-31-2008, 02:23 PM   #5
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1958 26' Overlander
Lander , Wyoming
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Rivets/bolts

C Ray, I just got my shell and floor back together after a shell off. The elevator bolts I used were from Mcmaster Carr. They ve a 31/32" head and are 1/4 20 thread.I got the stainless steel ones. Much more exspensive but I think they were worth it. If you need the part # I'll send it. I also used their aluminum c channel. You can certainly bend up your own but I found theirs adequate for my vintage. They only have 3/4" leg height with the 1.5" base but that was original size in my 58. It is 6063 anodized aluminum 1/16th " thick. As far as rivets go I have obtained them from sky geek and genuine aicrafthardware co. You will need size MS20470 AD5- 4,5or possibly 6. The last # of 4,5 or 6 determines the length of the rivet. Depending on the thicknesses of aluminum your riveting(ex over a rib) you may need different lengths. I also got a 4.5 length at one of the sites. Hope this helps some. I have explored most of the sites for this stuff so if you have other questions ask away. Ed
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Old 10-31-2008, 03:56 PM   #6
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A handy algorithm for the correct rivet length is:

Length = Material thicknesses + 1.5 x rivet diameter

Example: for two sheets of .032" and a 5/32" rivet, rivet length would be .064 + .234" = .298" = about 5/16", or a 5 length
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Old 10-31-2008, 05:04 PM   #7
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I did not do that

Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
... you should use nylon washers and shrink-wrap to electrically isolate the bolts that hold the c-channel to the plywood to the outriggers. ...
You are obviously being very careful to guard against galvanic corrosion. But, dissimilar metal corrosion requires an electrolyte such as water to produce the damage.

My plan, as I sure everyone's is, is to seal up every possible leak path so that water never reaches unintended places. If nothing else, the plan sure sounds good.

But the bottom line is that galvanic corrosion was the least of my worries during my Overlander's refurbishment. Structural issues were the result of rotted wood (due to water intrusion) as opposed to fasteners disintegrating due to dissimilar metal issues. While the water had rusted the original fasteners (some severely), none had broken.

There is cerainly nothing wrong with extra steps such as nylon washers or stainless hardware. I just feel there is no return on the investment.

A good investment is a yearly leak detection/prevention plan.

Tom
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Old 10-31-2008, 07:34 PM   #8
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Here's why

Here's why I went to the trouble of isolating the steel/aluminum connection. This hole in the old c-channel was at a bolt location and appears to be caused by galvanic corrosion. See the bottom one on the attached picture

I'm assuming you can't prevent moisture from getting between the walls from leaks or condensation.

After going to all the trouble of a shell off, it is a relatively small amount of work, IMHO.

John
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Old 11-01-2008, 12:11 AM   #9
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Another possibility to protect the bolts is to spray them with a rust inhibitor such as Rusfre Clear Inner Panel spray in the red and white spray can, or Noxudol wax type rust proofing: http://www.noxudolusa.com/rust_prote...rotection.html or petroleum based undercoating (as opposed to rubberized). Corrosion-X may also work well here. CorrosionX Aviation Living in a salt air environment has made a big impression on me when it comes to the necessity of preventing corrosion.
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Old 11-01-2008, 06:56 AM   #10
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1962 16' Bambi
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Thanks to all so far for the great input. I know that any electric current generated by dissimilar metals combined with any electrolyte (water/humidity) will cause galvanic corrosion. And there are a multitude of variables such as wiring/grounding schemes as well as dynamic properties of wind friction and Electro-Static Discharge to aid (or impede) this process. So I will be safe and use insulators or rust inhibitor, especially since I live on the coast.


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Old 11-01-2008, 08:43 AM   #11
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The first line of defense to preventing corrosion is to properly prime the aluminum with a good (epoxy) primer.
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Old 11-03-2008, 10:10 AM   #12
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1962 16' Bambi
Merritt Island , Florida
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Looked under Bambi yesterday and noticed that the belly pan rivets look bigger than regular 5/32 topside rivets, can anyone confirm that? I will investigate more this PM. Also, IF the belly pan wraps around the "C" channel and you have to lift the the shell before removing belly pan, then it is only practical to reinstall belly pan before reinstalling shell. SO, how do I get to the belly for wires, pipes, misc. hardware installations after the shell is back on? There is an access under the bath, but I am thinking about gas lines, wires and installing pipes (for grey tank) in areas away from the access.
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Old 11-07-2008, 09:36 AM   #13
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1962 16' Bambi
Merritt Island , Florida
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Forgot to mention something, the blue "extension" from the bottom of the blackwater tank to the dump valve, would have to be made so the grey tank would drain. I am also considering an additional grey tank for the sink. each of the grey water tanks would also have there own dump valve. What do you think of these ideas?
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Old 11-07-2008, 10:08 AM   #14
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Tom is spot on regarding galvanic corrosion although I will add that ambient moisture (humidity) can be a concern. My in-laws have a place on the Eastern Shore of Maryland within a few hundred feet of the Chesapeake Bay. It's not just the heat, it's the humidity (and the salt).

I'm building a little utility trailer. I'm going to shoot the flat heads with POR-15. After bolt-in of the plywood surface, I'll shoot the nuts and exposed bolt threads with another corrosion preventative.

As for RV plumbing, I suggest you start with this page for a general overview and some good ideas.
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