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Old 08-17-2014, 08:44 AM   #113
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As long as its apart I decided to beef up the step area a little bit. It cant hurt.


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Old 08-17-2014, 10:02 AM   #114
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The step area on my 65 was completely rusted out. I had to chop the whole area off fabricate new metal and re weld. If you want to beef up the frame you may want to "box" it in with a piece of metal that closes the open part of the frame and makes it more of a tube. Check out my thread. Also are you putting aluminum strip over steel to beef that step area up? If so I would consider using steel over steel and aluminum over aluminum. dissimilar metals don't really like each other that much. Good luck on your project. Oh and if you are going for axles talk to Colin H hes a great guy.
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Old 08-17-2014, 03:15 PM   #115
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Okay to beef it up but if you use anything other than aluminum over the step (like steel) rust. Proof the heck out of it! I made the aluminum piece over the step void longer so that it covered the channel with the step guide and that will keep the floor dryer! Have a lot to do but getting a second person has proven difficult unless they want me to do something for them but no reach around! It will get done first transaxle on the mower then back to work on the caravel! Great work by the way!
Cliff



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Old 08-17-2014, 04:58 PM   #116
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My plan is to use stainless under the floor in the step opening and make it bigger than what had been there to keep the water away from the floor. then use stainless for the threshold cover on both sides of the step.
I cut out the whole piece of steel that was directly under the door. Its the piece that bridges the outriggers. It was rotted beyond repair. It will be better than new.
I really do love this project.


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Old 08-17-2014, 05:00 PM   #117
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Our local Alro steel had a righteous piece of thin gauge stainless drop that will fit the bill perfectly!

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Old 08-17-2014, 05:08 PM   #118
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The piece under the door is being replaced with 11 gauge steel. Hope to have that fix welded in tomorrow after work. Its tacked in now.
I also added an angle piece in the back of the trailer in the bath area that runs front to back in the center. It seemed like a large span with no support.
My tanks will be above the floor.
Custom tanks to fit in my 3 inching frame are too expensive for me.


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Old 08-17-2014, 05:10 PM   #119
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I've had my axle since February.
Colin was a joy to deal with.


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Old 08-31-2014, 01:08 PM   #120
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The time has come to POR-15 the frame. This has so far proven to be the most physically demanding of all the steps involved in sub floor replacement.
Lots of bending over with the angle grinder in tow.
The best thing I've found so far to remove the loose rust and paint is the 4.5 " angle grinder outfitted with a cup wheel with the braided steel bristles.
Ok break is over. Back at it.

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Old 08-31-2014, 11:49 PM   #121
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Sand blast the frame don't waist time with the angle grinder, trust me
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:57 AM   #122
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The only part that needs to be cleaned of rust is the *A* frame the rest I replaced with new.
Plus, I dont have a sandblaster. There is one place in town that does it but wanted a kings ransom to do it.
I've almost got it done now.

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Old 09-07-2014, 09:52 PM   #123
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This is the Airstream-port in progress.
Cement will be poured in the next week or so.
Steel roof, 24 x 24 with 12 foot side walls. R-foil insulation in the roof to stop condensation drip.
A shout out to Boonstra Construction.

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Old 09-09-2014, 05:49 PM   #124
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Just finished 2nd coat of POR-15.
Probably my least favorite part of this whole project. That stuff gets on every part of me.
Someone at work asked if the black stuff on the back of my arm was an "Airstream tattoo". Wisenheimers.
I'm guessing a solid 2 weeks before the tattoo wears off.
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Old 09-09-2014, 06:29 PM   #125
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No you will pick at it until it's gone in a few days.
Cliff


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Old 09-27-2014, 04:47 PM   #126
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Help!
We are putting in the new axle now. Is it typical to have to cut the shock bolts shorter and should the threads face the wheel or face into the trailer on the bottom shock mount? ??
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