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Old 07-24-2014, 04:49 AM   #85
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Should I coat the inside of the new wheel wells with something or leave them naked?
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:52 AM   #86
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My leg is healing up nicely. Lots of neosporin does the trick.
I think the axle will go in before the floor. Just seems like it would be better to do it while everything can be seen without crawling around under it so much.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:54 AM   #87
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I just read our weather report. Rain for the weekend. Hope I dont get rained out. The list for Saturday is a mile long.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:59 AM   #88
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The builder will start the *Airstream-port* in three weeks. It only takes 2 days to complete.
24 x 24. Tow vehicle will fit in it too.
Its basically a steel pole building with out the walls. They will build it so they can be added later if I want. 4" cement floor too.
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:39 PM   #89
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Yes I gave the wheel wells a couple of coats of undercoat and on the top of the wheel wells I will (weather humidity) prime with rust oleum . Glad to hear that your healing and the weather here does not favor the airstream port hurricanes north Easters have a bad affect on them!
Cliff


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Old 07-24-2014, 03:29 PM   #90
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Are your wheel wells galvanized?

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Old 07-24-2014, 05:47 PM   #91
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Yes they are but a little extra protection never hurts!
Cliff


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Old 07-27-2014, 07:57 PM   #92
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Question about Rub Rail / bottom edge exterior trim piece? ?

Were the rub rails / bottom exterior trim pieces on my 67 Caravel originally held on with POP rivets? It will be going back on shortly and I'd like to do it in a leak free manner.
It seems like the pop rivets would leak like a sieve, but they are what I drilled out.
Also did it have paint on it. Mine has faded old paint on it. Each of the three grooves on it are a different color. Red, white and blue.
I'm pretty sure that this is not original as I can see faint brush marks.
Thank you.
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:36 PM   #93
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The paint was a nice touch by a previous owner maybe and Olympic rivets would work! I have not put the rail on yet a few more mods I want to make! I plan to buck it on but all things are subject to change without my notice! Nice work you are doing an awesome job!
Cliff


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Old 07-28-2014, 08:11 PM   #94
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We've done some bucking so thats an option too but was not sure they could be used on trim.
I find the buck riveting kind of fun!
I thought about Olympics but wondered how they'd work having to spread out in the channel. I think they are supposed to have clearance all the way around the *legs*.


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Old 07-28-2014, 10:09 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingo Girl View Post
Were the rub rails / bottom exterior trim pieces on my 67 Caravel originally held on with POP rivets? It will be going back on shortly and I'd like to do it in a leak free manner.
It seems like the pop rivets would leak like a sieve, but they are what I drilled out.
All my rail/trim is attached with pop rivets. Minno suggested "closed-end blind rivets" for possibly better leak-proofing at these areas. (I saw this after I had finished mine.) Trempro is key, regardless.

Alan
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Old 07-29-2014, 04:54 AM   #96
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Thank you all!
I will stop at Fastenal after work and see what they can get for me in a closed end rivet.

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Old 07-30-2014, 11:26 AM   #97
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At Fastenal I had to purchase 1ooo closed end aluminum rivets minimum.
McMaster Carr are 100 rivets per bag, priced reasonably.
They should be here by friday.
Thanks again!

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Old 08-01-2014, 06:00 PM   #98
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Epoxy or polyurethane????

Is there a reason polyurethane shouldn't be used to treat the edges and seams of the new floor?
I read a lot on the forums about epoxy and very little about polyurethane.
Just wondering as I am about 2 weekends from installing the new floor.
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