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Old 04-30-2008, 04:07 AM   #71
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Thanks for the necessary information. I have a feeling this guy may not come back. I will have to hire another electrician.

Brian
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:07 AM   #72
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I see where you re-installed your vista-view windows, but I didn't see pictures of how you got them out to clean them. That's my next project in the 76 Sovereign, and I need all the help I can get. Got any advice on this procedure?
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:26 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by SIU Bound
Thanks for the necessary information. I have a feeling this guy may not come back. I will have to hire another electrician.

Brian
I think maybe some of the large, luxury, bus-style Mohos require 50A service. But of my friends with TTs, I don't know any who typically use more than 30A service.

Sorry your electrician seems to have bailed, but I'm not sure he was the right guy for this job anyway?

Good luck!

-Marcus
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:12 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juel
I see where you re-installed your vista-view windows, but I didn't see pictures of how you got them out to clean them. That's my next project in the 76 Sovereign, and I need all the help I can get. Got any advice on this procedure?
Judy, up to at least 1972, the vista view inner pane was held in by a ring of metal something like a "C" clip, so you could remove the clip and get at the inside of the window. By 1975 the frame was changed so that you have to take the frame apart to get the panes out, which requires removing the frame from the shell. If your 73 has the earlier version, it's not that big a deal to clean the window (except figuring out how you're going to replace the putty between the panes). If you have the later window style, it's a major structural task, then you have to rivet the frame back in.

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Old 04-30-2008, 12:18 PM   #75
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Juel

I had the ring that held the window in. This is located in the interior of the trailer. There are several threads on this forum that explain how to do it. It really is not that big of a problem. My advice is everything and anything you do take your time and be careful. You do not want to break the windows. I took the rings out using a screw driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. I was very slow and careful. You have to pull the ring out by force using tools mentioned. Once you have it out the plexiglass window comes out. You are next left with the window. The sealant is old and hard. You use a razor Knife to cut the sealant between the alumininum frame and the window. Be patient and plan on it going really slow. Pretend you are an archiologist digging up a rare find. Do not force the window. Once you have cut through the seal the window comes out.

I am glad I did not have to drill the rivets.

Brian
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:39 PM   #76
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Question

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Originally Posted by SIU Bound
I did get my stove top powder coated which came out looking awesome.
I put Abatron liquid wood restoration on some small dry rot spots and I will finish with Abatron epoxy later.
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Yep the stove top looks good..real good.
What all did they powder coat? the lid ?, the grates? the base ?
What does each cost in your area?

I think my lid is stainless (rusted a bit though)
And I think my base is porcelinized but can't remember xzactly.
Will the grates stay coated with fire use?
===============
Also what is and what is cost of Abatron?


thanks
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:58 PM   #77
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So, if I'm understanding the whole blackwater tank removal / maintenance process - The correct procedure would be to remove the belly pan versus the flooring correct?

TB
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Old 04-30-2008, 04:23 PM   #78
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The powder coat for everything cost me $80.00. I grabbed all kinds of stuff. I was getting as much done as possible. It came out great and was worth it. They have about 20 different types of silver. I asked the powder coat expert which matched the best and let him pick. It gets ridf rust, pits and scratches. It can handle heat up to 450 degrees.

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Old 04-30-2008, 04:28 PM   #79
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Yes, remove the belly pan first, then drop the black tank. If you have a leak there is a strong possibility you have floor rot. That is where the evaluations come in. Some people take the whole RV down to nuts and bolts. I went after the localized rot. I did not take out the interior aluminum walls. I cut enough off to get access to the channel bolts. I have aluminum I will cut and paint to replace what I cut out. Nobody is going to see it anyway. I did not mess with the plumbing to much. I picked spots and cut the pipe out.

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Old 05-03-2008, 05:21 AM   #80
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30 amps is wired and running

I got my wiring up and running. My deep cycle battery is dead so I need to replace it. It won't hold a charge. My converter is up and wired but my DC lights won't work. I am hoping it is because my deep cycle battery is dead. I thought it would work if I plugged the the trailer into the AC with the dead battery hooked up but it still won't work. When I replace the deep cycle battery and if it still does not work I am going to have figure out what is not working. It is a new converter.

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Old 05-03-2008, 08:03 PM   #81
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Brian, your DC stuff should work even if you remove the battery (when connected to shore power and the rectifier turned on, of course). Is any of your DC stuff working, other than the lights? Which lights don't work? Did they ever work? You may have answered that before, I just can't remember at the moment. I still have all of that wiring exposed if you need me to check something, post a picture, etc. Just lemme know what you need.

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Old 05-04-2008, 04:33 AM   #82
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Converter Blowing fuses

Jim:

My converter is blowing the fuse which are attached to the battery positive. As soon as I hook up the battery it blows. I went over all the wiring a 100 times by myself with the help of a friend and we came to the conclusion everything is hooked up correctly. I am taking the converter out today and taking the fuse panel off to see if the wires are connected correctly.

I had our automotive teacher who's expertise is electrical wiring put it together for me. He said he tested all the connections and they were fine. I for the life of me cannot figure out why it is blowing that AUG 50 amp fuse that the red wire is attached to.

Brian
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Old 05-10-2008, 10:46 AM   #83
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Have you solved your DC problem? Battery? Converter? or a short?

What did you finally go with on the AC? 30 or 50 amp?

Geo...
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:21 AM   #84
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Yes and NO;

I took it to Camping World and had one of the tech look at it. He took his time and really gave me great customer service. He explained to me how the converter worked. I learned about the rectifier etc. I took it a part and put the hot and the negative in the correct locations ( wiring was wrong ). I put those wires were they were supposed to go. I was told the blue wire was supposed to hook to any bolt that was not for electricity (ground I think) and then I have a green wire that I do not know where it goes. It is part of the plug. I guess that is a ground.

I have a parallax 3020 converter that I am trying to wire to my Univolt fuse.

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