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Old 01-05-2008, 03:51 PM   #15
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Update of 73 Overlander restoration

I put por-15 on the frame, but I need to get some welding and reinforcement completed to the frame. That has been put on hold because my welding buddy has a bad back. I did get my stove top powder coated which came out looking awesome. My wife made drapries for the bedroom and bathroom (they look great). I put Abatron liquid wood restoration on some small dry rot spots and I will finish with Abatron epoxy later.

I tried to get some pics of the frame with por-15 but I can't get the camera to focus. I took about 7 pics today and only was able to get a couple to come out. I am doing something wrong with that camera. I will post my two good pics. One of the powder coated stove top and the drapes.

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Old 01-07-2008, 09:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
I have read many threads about plywood size. I used a ruler on the part I cut out and the ruler read 3/4". That is what I am going to buy. I was wondering why some people talk about 5/8" for plywood sizes for their different types of airstream? Is 3/4 inch plywood the standard size used for 73 overlanders?
SIU bound
The plywood in my 1973 was also 3/4". From what I have read some of the older units used 5/8" plywood. If you find that you can not get plywood that is exactly 3/4" you could consider using some sort of shim under the plywood if matching the height to the remaining plywood seems to be an issue. One material that comes to mind is plastic counter top laminate. Of course you might not want to have to buy a whole sheet so it would depend on what you might have around or if you can find some scraps somewhere.

Malcolm
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Old 01-08-2008, 07:44 AM   #17
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I used Advantec (sp?) in my Overlander and while it wasn't exactly the same thickness as the original, it was very close. By replacing the entire width (up to the bathroom/bedroom partition) the difference wasn't noticeable because it was covered by a transition strip (carpet to linoleum).

I used standard 3/4" plywood in the Sovereign but I think if I had it to do over again, I'd use the Advantec because it is probably less likely to absorb moisture, given all the glue contained in it.

If you replace right up to the partition, you'll never notice the slight difference in thickness.
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Old 01-17-2008, 03:52 PM   #18
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Converter upgrade

I took the old univolt fuse panel and with the help of a friend I had the new parallax 3230 attached to the old fuse panel.

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Old 01-17-2008, 06:45 PM   #19
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I don't think I'll be replacing my floor yet, but I've used some epoxy plywood which is designed as "fire resistant" for construction. I've put it through horrible conditions, even having left some exposed on the ground just to see how it holds up. Stuff does not seem to delaminate easily. It is a bit heavier...but thinking of a rot resitant floor...might be a good way to go. Cost more, but how many time would we want to replace the floor...once would do for me Just a thought.
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Old 01-29-2008, 04:28 PM   #20
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New Box to Hold Black Tank

I bought the exact sheet metal the orginal Box was made of and I and some friends built a new metal box. I have been very blessed to work at a career technical center where I can seek advice and help who are experts and my friends. The fellows helping me are instructors who teach auto body repair.

We measured the old box and included the length of the bent lip in our measurements. Then we cut the sheet metal to size. We drew squares on the four corners and cut one of the lines of the squares so we could bend and wrap the metal around to make the corners.

After we bent the metal using angle iron for the crease we riveted the corners together with 1/8" rivets. Check out the pics. I will send pics in next reply. Computer freezing

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Old 01-29-2008, 07:26 PM   #21
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Your making good progress! After over a year I finally got papers on my 31 so no more excuses, I need to stop procrastinating.
rob
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Old 01-29-2008, 07:53 PM   #22
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good work. test that blackwater tank (mount the dump valve if necessary) before you put it back in. If it's the waxy plastic (smells like a candle when melting) you can weld any cracks:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...tml#post511474

don't know about fixing the others. not a bad idea about taking out the aft part of bath floor. many have done it and glad they did. the fiberglass bath parts are also repairable and paintable to a nice bright white.

keep up the good work!
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Old 02-03-2008, 05:30 PM   #23
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Cleaned some of the trunk area

I am still waiting for welding but while I wait I decided to do another project. I took the back part of the trunk (area that you put cords, hoses and stuff in) and decided to clean the aluminun. It was pretty oxidized and I had to put some good old fashioned work into it. It came clean and I decided to change the gasket. the gasket was hard and brittle and rivets were broken that was holding it in place. So I decided to make a new one. I will post some pics.

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Old 02-03-2008, 07:25 PM   #24
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Good to see the progress. You got me motivated. I've been pulling the inside plexi from all the windows...err almost all the windows. I have one upper window that seems to be glass both in and exterior.

See your upgrade replacing the UNI Volt. I can not find mine. Have a gel battery and use a trickle charger for the time being.

Look forward to seeing more pics.

rob n terry
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Old 02-03-2008, 07:54 PM   #25
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Univolt upgrade

I am surprised you do not have a a converter. If you decide to upgrade and buy one, then shop for awhile before you purchase one. I lucked out and got my paralax for a decent price of 70 dollars. Watch for those sales. I also made sure that I got a converter that has the amprage my airstream was designed for. My airstream is 30 amp so that is what I bought.

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Old 02-03-2008, 09:35 PM   #26
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I am still looking for surpises. She was sitting on a lot when I bought it..."everything works" and I was the sucker to believe it. I probably would have brought her home even if I knew all the issues...but geez...no operating water system...no heater...no converter...and when the papers arrived I discovered he had never put the trailer in his name. Surprise! But all small stuff in the big scheme of things. All the stuff one knows to look for once they have read the forum All that and it is starting to become an airstream again...
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:29 AM   #27
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Sounds familiar

It sounds much like what I bought. The positive of all this is that I am enjoying working on it. Many of the priority projects for the house have been put on hold but I was getting burned out working on the house. This travel trailer has its problems but they will get solved. One problem at a time. All you have to do is look up on the net and see what a new airstream cost.

I have no plumbing in mine at all because I ripped it out. I will replace the plumbing, hot water heater, bathroom floor, galvanized box holding black tank, black tank, converter and other things. I do not know what type of shape my water tank is in and I am not sure about the refrigerator. It will get done. If you have the tools you can do this. If you don't have the tools find a Harbor Freight (Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices) and buy from them. They are very inexpensive and perfect for what you are doing. You do not need a top end tool for temporary work. I just bought a hydraulic rivet gun from HF for $47.00 on sale. What a nice gun.

Feel Free to e-mail anytime, If you e-mail me I will give you my number if you need to talk about restoration.

SIU Bound.
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Old 02-04-2008, 07:14 PM   #28
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Progress is always good Tools we got...somewhere in the garage...Like you I juggle projects, and yes, as strange as it sounds working a the trailer is a break from working on the house, even when the projects are similar. My biggest concern will be checking the axels out. Most everything else is labor and creativity.

Keep the photos coming
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