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Old 10-05-2015, 11:31 AM   #71
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New floor going in! But occurred to me I can't do the belly pan until all the drain plumbing is ran! Haha belly pan waits two more weeks.
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Old 10-05-2015, 04:28 PM   #72
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[QUOTE=HiJoeSilver;1691821]If you're going to be replacing wiring, get a ratcheting crimper, it creates MUCH better crimps than the little dimpler incorporated into all in one wire cutter stripper crimper tools.
Here's one I just bought way to far into the process, wish I had bought it long ago, and well worth the money for the comfort.
Titan 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper - - Amazon.com
QUOTE]

Hey thanks for the link. Just got mine...wow! that is a nice tool.
Gonna be doing mine complete as well so this will be invaluable.

Also got that rivet removing tool from VTS and that is very nice as well.

Also picked up a used deutsch air riveter and just got the control air valve.
It is super nice tool in great condition $70 shipped.
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Old 10-06-2015, 05:12 PM   #73
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If all your plumbing is in the rear you can do the front half of the belly and finish up later.
That tool really does make nice crimps, now I know why lewster was always so sure about his crimps.
Think and plan your electrical in advance, since you're starting from zero you'll have lots of options. Separate 120vac and 12v panels or combined in one with converter/inverter built in. Solar how much where etc. one place where spending some extra money up front can pay off in the long run.
Once panels go back on you're kinda stick, not totally but kinda.
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Old 10-13-2015, 06:27 PM   #74
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Figure out condition of frame??? Can this be done by removing belly pan

I replaced to sections of the subfloor i still have concern about rust under original floor that im not replacing since it is sound....what is the best way to find and deal with any rust which might not be seen with existing pan and floor??? What are the best bolts to use in c-channel for secure skin and walls
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Old 10-14-2015, 05:18 AM   #75
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I replaced to sections of the subfloor i still have concern about rust under original floor that im not replacing since it is sound....what is the best way to find and deal with any rust which might not be seen with existing pan and floor??? What are the best bolts to use in c-channel for secure skin and walls
I used 1/4 -20 socket head cap screws to anchor shell to floor and frame and elevator bolts to anchor floor to frame.
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:50 PM   #76
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So I've learned the hard way that a shell off means this dang thing is never lining back up the way it did before and I'm going to have to drill some new holes. Haha

I got the frame repaired, painted, and the new floor in (5/8 marine ply). Shell is back on. Two days of fighting to get it lined back up and I give up. You win airstream! The street side is off by a 1/4". This probably would've gone better if I had the original flooring as templates. I had to cut based on what looked right. Oh well. Shell is on and I'm working on getting the plumbing in, brakes wired, and finishing bolting the floor down (ran out of elevator bolts). Belly pan in 2 weeks!
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Old 10-14-2015, 10:03 PM   #77
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Dealing with rust require removing floor...

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Originally Posted by Betty1971 View Post
I replaced to sections of the subfloor i still have concern about rust under original floor that im not replacing since it is sound....what is the best way to find and deal with any rust which might not be seen with existing pan and floor??? What are the best bolts to use in c-channel for secure skin and walls
The only way to properly deal with rust is to remove the floor and then clean and re-treat the metal. There are many ways to do this... Different methods for cleaning, rust removal, pre-treating, and painting or coating. They range from basic handwork you can do yourself to turning the frame over to a professional and get it back in like new or better condition. Price varies depending upon what you have to spend and what you want to achieve.
I cleaned with a wire wheel and or abrasive wheel first... and then chemical rust remover (Naval Jelly) then a cleanup with water and then a degraser before coating/painting with POR15. It worked pretty well but not perfect.
If you are not going to do any floor removal then just about the only option you have is to oil mist the frame from below. This will inhibit rust formation.
When used on vehicles it is generally done once per year, but with a sealed belly pan is should last much longer. The process is to simply coat the frame with a mist of motor oil. Used oil works as well as new, but is messier because of the carbon content... so I recommend using inexpensive new oil... a few quarts should suffice. You will need a spray gun that can create a fine mist and deliver it to where you want it. Spray the entire frame with a very thin coating to protect it... a little on the bottom of the plywood will not hurt.
If you use too much then it will drip off and make a mess of where you park your trailer.

If you ever do get to removing rust then you will need to de-grease before you can do anything else as the oil will make removing the rust difficult and be very messy.

Chuck
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Old 10-14-2015, 10:22 PM   #78
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So I've learned the hard way that a shell off means this dang thing is never lining back up the way it did before and I'm going to have to drill some new holes. Haha

I got the frame repaired, painted, and the new floor in (5/8 marine ply). Shell is back on. Two days of fighting to get it lined back up and I give up. You win airstream! The street side is off by a 1/4". This probably would've gone better if I had the original flooring as templates. I had to cut based on what looked right. Oh well. Shell is on and I'm working on getting the plumbing in, brakes wired, and finishing bolting the floor down (ran out of elevator bolts). Belly pan in 2 weeks!
There are a few tricks... use the holes in the metal below and drill upward and then use these to line up the shell on. It will take some tweakingbut generally works well. If the shell stresses itself into a different shape after removal then you can re-stress it one bolt at a time back to its original shape. Time and labor consuming and requires more than one person, often a couple extra people to do the tweaking to get the bolts back in place.

A couple good solid awls will help to line up the previous/next couple of bolt holes enough to put the middle bolt in. If you have enough you can stick them through from below and use then to guide the shell as it drops into position on the frame.

The shell has a lot of stresses on it from the aircraft sheet metal. Given a chance it is likely to become wider in the middle straight sections... especially near the door.

Chuck
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Old 10-14-2015, 10:25 PM   #79
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I tried everything you said. I can assure you I don't just give up. I give it everything until the death. The airstream win. It just would not go back down to the same holes. So I just had to let it do what it wanted and pull it back as hard as we could and drill new holes in channel to bolt it back down. Gotta love unibody construction.

At this point I'm using the thread as a way to help others learn from my mistakes. I'll keep posting pics and updates until it's done.
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Old 10-15-2015, 12:17 AM   #80
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Slightly different...

When I did mine,I had removed the channel that was bolted to the floor.
I put this back on lining up to the original holes and then dropped the shell back on and buck riveted the shell back to the channel using the original rivet holes.

Chuck
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:36 PM   #81
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I tried everything you said. I can assure you I don't just give up. I give it everything until the death. The airstream win. It just would not go back down to the same holes. So I just had to let it do what it wanted and pull it back as hard as we could and drill new holes in channel to bolt it back down. Gotta love unibody construction.

At this point I'm using the thread as a way to help others learn from my mistakes. I'll keep posting pics and updates until it's done.
So it sounds like things are going normally well! Keep on plugging!
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:55 AM   #82
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So it sounds like things are going normally well! Keep on plugging!
Yep, I'm feeling good about it. I just got the plumbing roughed in. I'm finishing that up this weekend along with the final floor bolts. Also have to get the brakes wired. The new belly pan is going on next weekend.






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Old 10-16-2015, 10:17 AM   #83
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The previous owner got a little of of control with reinforcing the floor framing in the front. I decided to leave it...wish I would've removed it. He welded angle iron on top of the frame rails in the front and it has lifted the subfloor just enough to be a problem re-securing the channel to the shell.
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Old 10-17-2015, 12:18 AM   #84
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New floor going in! But occurred to me I can't do the belly pan until all the drain plumbing is ran! Haha belly pan waits two more weeks.
Wasn't this thread "Refuse Shell off"?
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