Temporary fix to rear end rot ?

[nickclifford]

we had some heavy rains in Nor Cal a few weeks ago and discovered much to my horror that rain water was still permeating through the rear end of my '72 Sovereign. It's been beautiful and sunny since so had now dried out.
Shortly after buying the trailer i pulled all the trim off and went through the process of sealing that entire back strip where water runs off the storage area and bumper back into the trailer. So pretty bummed to see that

There is a little rot in both corners of the wood floor and from feel, about 4 or 5" on one side has rotted out around what I'm assuming is the famous "C" channel. The rear bath floor area is remarkably good apart from that so am not about to tear out the bathroom as wanting to use the trailer with my kids before they move on in life .... so for now, I'm going to try resealing and locate the leak. My question is on thoughts on preserving what's left of the wood, apply epoxy resin?

First two pics through the rear hatch shows wood is good condition from above, second pic from inside the storage area shows rotted out in the corner.
I want to apply some kid of rust killer / paint fot the rusted exposed metal in that area too ... any thought much appreciated. It will be several year before I contemplate removing bathroom interior.

[jdalrymple]

For a temporary fix I have used Rot Doctor to stabilize the plywood.

I have then fiberglassed/epoxy over the weak spots for strength.

A dehumidifier helps to get things good and dry to start with.



Get the leaks stopped.




Go camp.




Regards,

JD

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by jdalrymple

For a temporary fix I have used Rot Doctor to stabilize the plywood.

I have then fiberglassed/epoxy over the weak spots for strength.

A dehumidifier helps to get things good and dry to start with.



Get the leaks stopped.




Go camp.




Regards,

JD

Ditto. Rot looks minor. Rot Doctor should give you a permanent fix

[nickclifford]

great advice, many thanks ,never heard of that product, i'll give it a go. Considered better than using a two part epoxy? one other quick question, what's the best product to treat rusted metal ? thanks

[Kemblkr]

Don't fix what not broke. Go with the other guys recommendations


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[Kemblkr]

For rusted metal Rustoleum Rust Reformer works great. I think that's the name. POR15 is also popular. I used the Rustoleum then followed with just a gloss black on my metal frame. Good luck!


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[mccrosti]

I have a different opinion having done my 72 Overlander, and you will probably not like it. It's not the rot you can see, it's the rot you can't see that Will mess you up.

The last 2 inches of perimeter is where the bad rot is, unfortunately it's also between the inside and outside skin, unless you remove that, you'll never see it. I'd be happy to share pics with you of the "repair" the PO did to mine. Remove the inside skin and find chicken wire and silicone. Also he too two threaded rods from the bottom of the trailer, through the frame for the rear hatch, through the window frame, where he added nuts to hold everything together. Actually not a bad fix considering he tied everything together. The point is unless you can get into that last little bit of sandwhich you won't correct much with rot Doctor or the other chemicals.

Let's talk about water - it's leaking between the skins, and that C channel? In your trailer it is more of an inveterted F there is no closure at the top, so water just drips all over it.

Eventually, you will have to remove the bath and replace that floor and add a C channel... etc.

Have someone jump up and down on the rear bumper while you look hard at where the floor, frame and shell meet. If there is any movement at all, you have rear end separation.

Sorry for this long post, but my mantra is; fix it once, fix it right.


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[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by nickclifford

Considered better than using a two part epoxy? one other quick question, what's the best product to treat rusted metal ? thanks

1, It is a 2 part epoxy
2.The consensus seems to be POR 15

[nickclifford]

Originally Posted by mccrosti

I have a different opinion having done my 72 Overlander, and you will probably not like it. It's not the rot you can see, it's the rot you can't see that Will mess you up.

The last 2 inches of perimeter is where the bad rot is, unfortunately it's also between the inside and outside skin, unless you remove that, you'll never see it. I'd be happy to share pics with you of the "repair" the PO did to mine. Remove the inside skin and find chicken wire and silicone. Also he too two threaded rods from the bottom of the trailer, through the frame for the rear hatch, through the window frame, where he added nuts to hold everything together. Actually not a bad fix considering he tied everything together. The point is unless you can get into that last little bit of sandwhich you won't correct much with rot Doctor or the other chemicals.

Let's talk about water - it's leaking between the skins, and that C channel? In your trailer it is more of an inveterted F there is no closure at the top, so water just drips all over it.

Eventually, you will have to remove the bath and replace that floor and add a C channel... etc.

Have someone jump up and down on the rear bumper while you look hard at where the floor, frame and shell meet. If there is any movement at all, you have rear end separation.

Sorry for this long post, but my mantra is; fix it once, fix it right.


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Thanks Dave,

my goal is to use the trailer as is for the next two or three years while my kids are around still and then tear out the old bathroom and install something nice and modern. When standing on the right side of the bumper and forcing my weight down, there is a very small visible movement, if i stand on the far left side, rock solid. So question .... is it considered dangerous or detrimental to use trailer like this? Rest of perimeter flooring is very solid.(PO kept in the Southern Cali desert), so hopefully will never have to worry about more extensive floor repairs).

would love to a diagram showing how the trailer shell is connected to the chassis & flooring on this vintage....

nick

ps, show us your pics !!

[HiJoeSilver]

Nick,
"my goal is to use the trailer as is for the next two or three years while my kids are around"

Sounds like a good plan! It's safe as it is, not optimal but safe. Enjoy time with your kids while you can!

Joe

[mccrosti]

Hi Nick be happy share my pics along with a diagram of the connection. I used my trailer as it was for two years prior to renovation and while I can't judge yours without seeing it, I do know that the threaded rod kept my rear together. If one side is rotten, then the other is on its way.

There is also a connector/ stabilizer piece of metal between the two walls that will be rotten as well.

Nick the hardest part of all of this work is removing the bath. Frankly I went a little nuts and wound up renovating everything but the kitchen!


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[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by nickclifford

is it considered dangerous or detrimental to use trailer like this? !

Sounds like you may have the beginnings of "rear end separation". Longer 70s trailers are prone to this. Do a search and you will find more than you ever want to know about it.

To understand it here is RES 101. The Airstream is a semi monocoque design. The stability of the body and the frame are both related to being attached together. At the bottom of the wall there is a "C channel" the floor fits into. The wall is then bolted to the floor through the C channel. There is also an angle iron across the front and back of the trailer that ties the body to the floor. So if you have rot in the floor in the area of the C channel this connection in weakened.

It is not dangerous, your trailer will tow fine. It will get worse if it is ignored. If you are able to arrest the floor rot you can stop the problem from getting worse. If you can "fix" the bad spot you can eliminate the problem. There are several techniques.

From your description, it sounds like the problem is not serious yet and you would be OK to monitor the problem. In the meantime I would avoid adding weight to the rear end, including the black water tank, when towing and when parked us your stabilizer jacks. Bad axles and out of balance running gear will much more quickly cause damage.

[Della]

Originally Posted by nickclifford

great advice, many thanks ,never heard of that product, i'll give it a go. Considered better than using a two part epoxy? one other quick question, what's the best product to treat rusted metal ? thanks

I believe Rot Doctor also makes Rust Doctor (I'll make sure) and that is what I used when I had to replace my rear bath floor on my '73 Overlander. Simple to use, clean up with water.

I've also used - once thoroughly dried out - CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) and then an epoxy filler for minor "beyond repair" areas which also worked really well.

Good luck !

[romeb]

Fluid Film for the metal maybe?

[65CV]

Originally Posted by nickclifford

Thanks Dave,
,,,
would love to a diagram showing how the trailer shell is connected to the chassis & flooring on this vintage....

This is for an older vintage, but should help you understand the construction. Someone who knows '70s hopefully can help with any differences. The key point is that the wood floor is a critical structural component, lying between the frame below and the c-channel above. When it rots, it allows the shell to bounce around -- obviously not a good situation. A floor repair that doesn't address rotten wood between the frame members below and c-channel above isn't adequate.

Credit for this drawing, if I remember correctly, goes to NorCalBambi.

[65CV]

Saw on another thread that you're chasing multiple leaks. Dealers will use air pressure to show sources of leaks. They're a bear to chase down, since water can show up quite a ways from the original source. If you think its helpful, see post 526 of this thread for the infamous Hillbilly Leak Test method.

I've never tarped my trailer, but have read on this forum that tarps can damage your Airstream's skin. Best bet is to seal leaks first -- before doing anything.

John

[nickclifford]

Awesome info, thanks for the advice ..

[mccrosti]

Nick, I wish I had that drawing before I got into mine. I'll have to find the photo that shows the chicken wire..


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