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Yes,you have rear end seperation. I don't think your route will work. Do a search for descriptions and pictures of people who have done the job and you'll see what to do.
John
Quote:
I just got my 75 ’31 LY. It looks like I have separation. When I jump up and down on the bumper the frame move about 1/8 to ¼ inches from the shell. Also I see that the bottom trim is crushed a little where the frame extends to the bumper.
Is this what I am looking at?
Garth,
I had severe seperation (I could see the 3/4" plywood in the gap). A suggestion I got from a man who restores old railroad cars worked great. I took off the cover to the storage box in the bumper and removed the rivets in the decorative band that goes around the trailer just above the bumper. and bent them out so I could get to the skin of the trailer. Before this I had the rear bumper on jacks holding up the weight of the trailer to get everything back as close as possiple to original position. I took a 2" L aluminum channel and had to cut down one side to 1 1/4' (metal cutting blade on table saw) You then rivet the bottom of the ell to the bumper and the verticle side to the trailer (hopefully getting rivets into the floor channel)simple cuts in the bottom of the ell will allow it to curve around the ends. Bend the decorative band back into place and rivet it to cover the patch.
If you have questions, email : www.stagecoachbill@msn.com
__________________
stagecoachbill
WBCCI #5345
62 Globe Trotter 19'
69 Sovereign 31'
04 E-350 Van 6.0 diesel
I put some bolts thru the bottom of my cargo bay door down thru the steel frame that goes across the trailer under the back of my 77. In one years use it managed to hold up the bumper but tore the aluminum on the bottom of the trailer and distorted the door frame. The tail droop is actually an indicator that you have frame damage and fixing the droop is only cosmetic. You really need to drop the lower pan and look at the frame just to the rear of the rear axles on either side. If there is a crack that will require a welder to beef up the frame in that area and you should install the stiffener plate that sandwiches with the plate between the wheels. This is the factory designed and authorized fix for the problem. They also recommend putting in the elephant ears fix which installs additional bolts between the C channel at the back of the trailer and the steel frame. This is the only real way to really fix the problem. Expect to pay over $1000, if you have a pro do it.
Anyone have more details on the fix dwight mentioned? Picture of elepahnt ears?
I'll be dropping the belly skin on mine this week - if i get the pole building built. No, the building isn't for the AS, but I will be making the building a bit larger to get the trailer in.
Andy, I'm the hub. Since we haven't yet figured out how to append a photo to one of these missives, I'll describe the problem. The lower flange of the main fore-aft "C" channel on both sides is rusty and wrinkled. This is right where the jack point is aft of the axle reinforcement plate. Top flange in tension, bottom flange in compression and wrinkled. Everything seems to sag down aft of the wheelwells and the extrusion which clasps the floor aft of the wheelwell on the driver's side is split lengthwise. I'm tempted to cut away the lower flange and up the web a couple inches on both sides, lift up the rear end until the frame is level, and weld in a piece of 2" angle to replace the flange and maybe box in the whole section to make it much stronger.
This is kinda scary......I think I understand this engineer talk! It sounds like you are on the right track, but I wouldn't be too eager to do with as little as possible of the 2" angle iron. You might want to put a 'fishplate' on the side of the frame also, on the vertical part.
As I have never gone in there, I am not sure what thickness the frame is to start with. I have welded lots over the years, and I would use stainless steel much as possible......but I am from western NY, where they dump salt on the roads like it is free....at least in the winter.
I do want to tear into my TradeWind, but I would like some input before I start. most of the bottom skin needs replacing anyways, and the big angle iron square under there is pretty rotted away. I want to replace it with stainless steel.
Sid, from near Niagara Falls
Hi All…I read with interest the nine page thread regarding Sag/Separation and learned lots…but have a couple of important (to me) question I would like to clear up.
1) Has AS made changes to the frame or whatever to correct the design issue that allows/enables the sag and or separation to occur? Someone mentioned going to a larger gauge frame but did not elaborate. If changes HAVE been made WHAT YEAR were the changes made???
2) In the current world of used AS…what years and lengths are more prone to problems and are there years and lengths that do not have this potential issue?
Most of the discussion had to do with owners of AS trailers that either had or may get the problem…much discussed repair and prevention. While I enjoyed the information…my goal is to not get into that situation.
I have become more energized by the thought of renovating (maybe not restoring) an earlier (‘70s/’80s/’90s) 30’+ AS…I am sure each of you know when you get bit by the “aluminitis” bug. However, I am a bit discouraged by this major repair potential right in the main market I am looking at. I would appreciate your thoughts…and hopefully factual info…on this issue with AS trailers.
Thanks…Tom R in Two Harbors, MN…close to frost here last night…maybe some in the “low lying areas”!
Last edited by Mel : 09-09-2006 at 10:11 AM.
Reason: Changed font to forums standard size 2
These are all great questions. I don't think the 60's trailers had this problem. At some point after 68, they moved the axles forward or lengthened the trailer. Can't remember which. I know I read this some place here on the forum or maybe in Airstream Life. I think the greatest problems with rear end sag were in the 70's. But if you buy a shorter, 24' or less trailer from the 70's, there shouldn't be a problem.
I know that there are others out there who have a better more precise answer. Hope they chime in.
Thanks Kathleen...I have generated a fair amount of enthusiasm to find an "older" 30'+ AS and renovate...(vs restore)...to like new as far a "trailering" issues. ie...tires/axels/brakes/TV etc would have to be A-1 shape. I have also figured out that interior items can be repaired/replaced as your time and budget dictate. I am concerned about this sag/separation issue as a problem I do not want to deal with.
I have a "lead" on a '78 31' Sovereign (rear bath!) that appears to be reasonably well maintained original...original owner. He claims no leaks ever and no rear sag or separation. It ahs not been on the road for 10 years and I am confirdent the 80+ year old gentleman that owns it has little idea about rear sag/separation and I doubt he had it "properly" balanced during the prior years when he took it to Arizona on an annual basis.
I hope we get some more conclusions on the now well discussed issue...if you have not read the nine page thread...you don't know what you are missing!
I am willing to spend more $$$$s if I need to and move up a few model years if it means this issue has been "solved" by the AS designers. Thus I need to know from you high "rivet" members...what is the summary conclusion learned about this issue and how it affect various model years and lengths...Tom R in Two Harbors
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