I still have some downward looking axial (not level yet) But looking at the wheel from the side(stepping back 15') I have less than 3" clearance.(your rule of thumb)
I can tell the trailer has been wrecked on that side.(some inward bows,cracked door and door frame)
They welded a plate to the out side of the frame to axial plate(hard to see in the pic) That plate is cracked from top to bottom. I jacked the frame up at the rear of the trailer using a spirit level to get a level reading on the rear bumper. Doing that brought the cracks together.
Any way, your telling me the shell must come off and square up the frame? Bummer,I thought so. And I thought I could do a floor replacement with shell on.
The frame can be repaired with the shell on.
But, when welding, you more than likely will burn part of the wood flooring.
Doing a floor replacement with the shell in place, means you will splice the floor.
The type constuction is called "monocoque".
That means the shell is load bearing. The floor is part of the shell. When you replace the floor with splices, you weaken the shell, unless the splices are minor.
Andy your the man I don't know why I was listening to myself so much.
But the one side of my axil has took a big hit due to the patch work.( in my pics).
Well any way tonight after work I removed the wheel housing on the other side and look what I found(pics)
I'll defanetly be ordering a new axil. And lining up the frame and fish plating both sides. I figure 5 or 6 feet ought to be enough. That will put 3 feet on both ends of the breaks.
So how am I doing? I sure welcome any help and do apreciate this forum. Especialy Andy. He has got to be the most patient guy around. Not to mention the most knowedgable.
I have chinked between shell and frame when removing flooring all around. The last pic showes where I am at on the project.
Rear, I have my airstream completely stripped out, I took down the belly pan (middle section) from the rear up to the axles and amazingly the frame from black tank forward looks new, no rust!!! However I'm don't see how I can get the rear piece of plywood out without removing the belly pan and the banana wrap? Maybe I missed something? Also we are trying to decide whether or not to move the bedroom to the back and the bathroom to the center curbside? I can make the cabinets and counter top but not sure what to do about the shower, can one be ordered? Also is there a place for the black tank up there? Just thinking it would be better to have kitchen and bath next to each other to reduce the amount of water lines.
Rear, I have my airstream completely stripped out, I took down the belly pan (middle section) from the rear up to the axles and amazingly the frame from black tank forward looks new, no rust!!! However I'm don't see how I can get the rear piece of plywood out without removing the belly pan and the banana wrap? Maybe I missed something? Also we are trying to decide whether or not to move the bedroom to the back and the bathroom to the center curbside? I can make the cabinets and counter top but not sure what to do about the shower, can one be ordered? Also is there a place for the black tank up there? Just thinking it would be better to have kitchen and bath next to each other to reduce the amount of water lines.
To replace the rear section of floor, the banana wraps, quarter panels and the panel below the rear window, should "all" be remove, to properly replace that plywood, as it should be, in one piece. Remember the floor is part of the "monocoque" construction. Piecing it, weakens that area.
Extra tie down brackets should be welded to the outside of the frame, just inside of the banana wraps. That will provide extra "hold down." You may find the floor channel cracked. If so, it should be removed at welded. Install more bolts, thru the floor channel, thru the plywood and theu the frame. Add steel plates inside of the floor channel, and then run the bolts thru them, for even greater strength.
Make sure the rear hold down plate is clean and secure. A water leak from the past, will cause it to rust, sometimes very bad.
Moving the bath, I don't think, will be very cost effective, since your old tanks won't fit, as they will have to be turned 90 degrees.
Old, major parts, for the baths, are typically not available.
The "elephant ear" repair is a bunch of "HOG WASH."
This information has been most helpful. I have a 1969 31' Sovereign with a rear rotten bath. PO lived in it for 10 years at a trailer park. Used a garden hose fished through the wall for his shower. I am trying to save this beauty. I have pulled all the cabinets out and have pulled all bath fixtures out that were on the floor (a lot of damage and wear). Left the upper acrylic shell for now. Unit smelled and I have found lots of rodent nests probably from the belly pan punctures. Bath floor was rotten. Cut away the plywood and removed black tank. Box it was in was rusted through as were many of the rear lateral members. Plan to weld new supports and possibly install new black tank and add grey tank and fresh water tanks mid trailer. Any ideas?
From the information I have read here i really need to replace the entire floor and should remove the entire belly pan and floor insulation to get rid of the smell and check for other rot / rust. I was hesitant at first but I want this beauty to be trouble free when I am done.
Anyone run heater tubing under the floor?
I am thinking seriously about removing the acrylic single piece arcylic bath ceiling / wall shell with built in medicine cabinet and side storage to make the bath smaller. Has anyone else done that? Am I changing it too much? Am I taking on more than worthwhile? Know where I can get shower stalls?
Not sure I want to tackle this major change but my wife wants a rear bedroom, but window placement doesn't work well for that. Anyone move the windows before?
I was going to do just what your thinking. but changing the bath to the center was going to be very expensive so we've decieded to put it back together the way it was. I welded new sections in the frame where needed and replaced the rear section of floor, now we have the fiberglass dome back in, that wasn't easy, and two lower wall sections and as much as I hate to say it, we are now building a new house so the AS will have to wait until this winter Good luck on your project. If you have any questions at all you can find answers here on the forums as people are very helpful!!
Andy, On my 62 tradewind looking at the rear of the trailer I can see the left side of the bumper is 1/2 to 1 inch lower. Is this frame seperation? I can pull up on the bumper and it moves very little? If so how can you fix this?
Ok, Maybe false alarm. I looked at the rear very close tonight in the cold rain! I Opened the rear of my trailer last year to replace to black tank valve. I was able to look into left rear under the black tank. Toilet "sitting" on top of small tank. You can see the frame and the black tank sitting nicely together. No gaps etc. The only gap was the space that the rotten wood was removed about 1/2 inch around the last bolt through the frame before the bumper. Any ideas?
Ok, I opended up the side that I was concerned about and found that the PO had cut a knotch out of the frame just before it attaches to the bumper. (This allowed the drain pipe to go just under the frame) The drag bar you can see in the picture is still intact and the frame is secure. I can see all the way to the first crossmember of the frame The floor is sitting snug on top of the frame rails. I think im ok now. Just all the talk about tail drag separation just scared me!
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I don't know why I was listening to myself so much.
Good luck on your project. If you have any questions at all you can find answers here on the forums as people are very helpful!!
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