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Old 10-07-2012, 12:34 PM   #15
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I trashed all the pieces in the previous photos because they were too lightweight. Had some .050 cut and bent, then I cut the kerfs to make the curve in the floor.

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Old 10-07-2012, 01:12 PM   #16
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Very nice. That looks like it will do the trick.
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:17 PM   #17
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Looking good, boy I remember that......
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:21 AM   #18
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nice looking job! thanks for sharing
just noticed the "white " under the plywood, is that an insulation? will like to know more about it.
Great work and please keep the pics coming.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:14 PM   #19
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Here are a couple more shots of the insulation. It's 2" rigid foam board with plastic on both sides for prevention of mold and moisture penetration. I used 2 1/2" screws with 1" fender washers to keep the screws from pulling through the foam and just screwed it to the underside of the 3/4" marine grade plywood floor. I coated the wood, top, bottom, and sides with west marine resin for protection against moisture. On the first attempt, the shell didn't fit. I'll need to trim the rear corners and try again next week. JT
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:25 PM   #20
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Axle Relocation

Great idea about relocating axle under leaf springs but how can you be sure of proper alignment? I know that the original design, like 50's cars, had a "nub" which fitted thru the spring hold down plate. I'd like to try this idea but am uncertain how it will affect tracking.
Thanks for your thread BTW. Very inspiring.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:53 PM   #21
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I just located the axle exactly where it was before but on the opposite side of the leafsprings. I have not towed it with the shell on but didn't have any trouble without the shell. I'll keep you posted after I marry the shell and the chassis.
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:37 AM   #22
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So, without a proper template for the shape of the corners on the subfloor, I lowered the shell to the oversized floor and drew a line, then made the cuts. After installing the U channel, I found that the shell doesn't fit so I need to remove the U channel in the rear and trim off about 3/4" off each corner of the floor. I'll make a pattern so that each side will be identical. Then, I'll trim the U channel and re-install. This should also give me a little more slack in the front that fit really tight and there was no way the belly skin was going to slide up between the channel and the shell.
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:25 PM   #23
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where did you get the insulation from? any local big box store? do you know the R factor on it?
thanks again for sharing!
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:42 PM   #24
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The insulation came with the trailer. PO had purchased it but had not installed it. I'm pretty sure you could buy it at your local home center.
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:33 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 54breadloaf View Post
So, without a proper template for the shape of the corners on the subfloor, I lowered the shell to the oversized floor and drew a line, then made the cuts. After installing the U channel, I found that the shell doesn't fit so I need to remove the U channel in the rear and trim off about 3/4" off each corner of the floor. I'll make a pattern so that each side will be identical. Then, I'll trim the U channel and re-install. This should also give me a little more slack in the front that fit really tight and there was no way the belly skin was going to slide up between the channel and the shell.
Hey Breadloaf....I think typically the belly pans are attached (sparingly riveted to the channel) prior to setting the shell back down. From your post, it sounds like you'll be trying to slide the belly pan back up between the channel and skin. It sounds possible, but maybe harder than it could be. I wished your shell fit down nicely....hate to see you have to go back and re-trim the floor. I have my floor now completely coated with the West Epoxy, so I know how expensive that stuff is!!! Great progress...keep up the good work!

Lee
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:54 AM   #26
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Hi Lee, I did have to trim the floor several times trying to get the perfect fit. Each time, I then coated the fresh wood cut off edge with 5 minute epoxy to re-seal it. I would like to have gotten the belly skin done before setting the shell back down but had to get the shell out of my cousins front yard. With the new holding tanks hanging below the level of the belly skins, ill have to customize something to cover them. I plan to put all of the standard belly skin on, then make a one piece cover for the tanks that I can remove if I need to work on the tanks in the future.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:26 AM   #27
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Hi Lee, I did have to trim the floor several times trying to get the perfect fit. Each time, I then coated the fresh wood cut off edge with 5 minute epoxy to re-seal it. I would like to have gotten the belly skin done before setting the shell back down but had to get the shell out of my cousins front yard. With the new holding tanks hanging below the level of the belly skins, ill have to customize something to cover them. I plan to put all of the standard belly skin on, then make a one piece cover for the tanks that I can remove if I need to work on the tanks in the future.
I atcually buckeled one corner of my trailer because the subfloor was a little too long. So lift, trim and reskin the rear lower panels. I would suggest the large flange pop rivets from VTS for the belly they work great!! Nice work keep it up!!
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