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Old 08-27-2010, 01:17 PM   #15
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Sub-floor cut to size, sealed four times over on both sides and is ready to be screwed into place. Amazing what you can still accomplish when the heat index tops out at 110...
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:24 PM   #16
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And on a related matter, any suggestions on covering those wheel wells? Am considering building two light "boxes" to cover/protect each and to be hidden under the yet-to-be build kitchen and seating.
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Old 08-27-2010, 07:54 PM   #17
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Did you end up using the marine grade, or the CDX?
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Old 08-27-2010, 09:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Llano View Post
And on a related matter, any suggestions on covering those wheel wells? Am considering building two light "boxes" to cover/protect each and to be hidden under the yet-to-be build kitchen and seating.
Just wondering, is there a reason you want to cover them? Is it aesthetic, or do you have something else in mind?

If you're going to build out the interior with furniture that is identical or close to the original configuration, then the wheel wells will be entirely hidden within the furniture anyway. If you have another interior plan in mind, one that exposes the wells, then I suppose covering them with something could be a good idea.

I just painted mine with rubberized underbody coating. They are hidden under the beds and cabinets anyway.

The subfloor looks great, please do keep us posted on your progress.

-Marcus
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Old 08-28-2010, 06:23 AM   #19
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Alas the budget did not allow for the marine. Maybe I should have sealed each side EIGHT times!
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Old 08-28-2010, 08:15 AM   #20
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One reason that comes to mind for covering the wheel wells is that it allows an area between the inner and out to install insulation.
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:54 AM   #21
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I am going to take the non-marine plywood approach, as well. I have been seeing BCX mentioned in several different forums, and may go that route. Marine sounds awesome, but when the better-half reminded me of budget realities, I decided to use an alternative....like you, I will be sealing, and re-sealing. I don't think that I would consider pressure treated, as I have never really liked that product.
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:47 PM   #22
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Pressure treated worried me because of the fumes. I've built one too many decks and know how nasty that stuff is.

I want to cover the wheel wells because I plan to incorporate them into the storage I'm building. I hadn't thought of insulation but that's a great idea. One frame built today and the other easily knocked out this week. Even found perfect salvaged lumber at a neighbor's kitchen remodel!
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:04 AM   #23
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Wheel well covers complete. Now, about those walls...
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:40 AM   #24
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Sub Floor

You should have no concerns with your floor.
If you do a little research you will find marine and exterior ply use the same glue. The difference is in the quality of the plies themselves.
In order for it to be "marine grade" it has to meet a higher standard for voids and patches on the veneer used to make the plywood and typically the exterior plies look nicer.
None of the differences matter for use as sub-floor and do not warrant the considerable cost difference IMHO.
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Old 08-31-2010, 11:15 AM   #25
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I found marine (supposed) quality plywood to be gorgeous to look at and work with - but when it came time to screw it down to the frame those eight void-free layers had as much body to them as wet paper towels - many screws buried themselves under the top ply before any real resistance was felt, I was unable to have all the fasteners draw down to anywhere near the same torque.

If I had it to do again I would look for a scaffold-grade OSHA registered plywood, and failing to find that or similar visit the real lumberyards & construction suppliers in this region and have them consult the 'books' to get the facts on composition trade-offs...

Pressure treated is corrosive and kills metal except fasteners designed for it.
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:50 PM   #26
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What did you use to "seal" the plywood with?
I have long been a fan of a 50/50 mixture of Cuprinol and Boiled Linseed Oil.
Seems like if you are going with the original glue down 1ft by 1ft floor tiles
the off-gassing of the glue would be as big a concern as the sealant/preservative.
Plus, once the tiles are glued down they will certainly minimize off-gassing migrating
into the trailer.
Any opinions on this approach?
BWH
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Old 08-31-2010, 03:22 PM   #27
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Cuprinolgets its name from "Copper in Oil" - copper and aluminum, copper and steel do not mix. I agree your 50/50 mix is easy working and long lasting but has no place in a forever inhabited installation constructed of pre-aged and completely consumable metals...
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Old 08-31-2010, 03:35 PM   #28
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I painted thick coats of exterior polyurethane on both sides and the edges of the boards previous to installation. Off-gassing has been an issue but hopefully not an enduring one. At least it overpowers the previous funky smell...
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