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05-16-2011, 12:10 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
Clarksburg
, Missouri
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 18
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Sub floor type
Do I have to use marine grade plywood or can I just use something else?
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05-16-2011, 12:16 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Some people use marine grade, I lust used a good 7ply standard plywood about $27/sheet and treated the top, bottom and edges before installing. That is more then the factory did and mine lasted 50 years.
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05-16-2011, 12:17 PM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
Clarksburg
, Missouri
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 18
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Did you use tongue and groove?
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05-16-2011, 12:35 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joneslacey
Did you use tongue and groove?
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I did not but that would probably be better, I reinforced the seams underneath. I would reinforce the tongue and grove also if not on a cross member and glue the seams.
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05-16-2011, 01:21 PM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
Clarksburg
, Missouri
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 18
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How did you reattach the plywood to the frame?
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05-16-2011, 01:42 PM
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#6
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Klatawa (to travel)
1965 24' Tradewind
Currently Looking...
Bremerton
, Washington
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 150
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We just completed a 1965 Tradewind, we used marine grade ply for two reasions; first it has a very smooth surface and if you plan on laying down any type to tile of lunoleum any uneveness will show. The second is marine ply has no pops or voids in the laminations which you can not see untill you step on a spot and it caves in. I am not saying that you can not use a good grade of plywood the choice is yours.
I used 1/4-20 carrage bolts to fasten the floor to the frame, not wure what they used in 75. I then glued and screwed a 1/4 inch plywood stip at each joint of the plywood. I think with this reply our attachment to a photo bucket shows the entire rebuild of our 1965 Tradewind and some the floor replacement.
Dave
__________________
Klatawa
(Dave & Debbie)
1965 24' Tradewind
2015 Chev Silverado HC
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05-16-2011, 01:55 PM
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#7
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retired USA/USAF
2001 30' Excella
Somerset
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,418
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Vintage Trailer supply sells self drilling and tapping screws that work well for attaching the plywood subfloor to the frame. They work blind ( where you can't reach below to use a screw and nut). On my trailer I found I had to bear down hard to pull them flush with the subfloor and in doing so some were stripping out their threads. To remedy this I pre-drilled a hole and using a countersink made a divit in the plywood for the head of the bolt. Thusly, when I installed the bolt I didn't have to bear down as hard and they tapped themselves and pulled the head nicely flush with the plywood. There are probably other types of screws that will work as well but if you have to order any stuff from VTS these screws are a good choice.
Good luck with your job.
__________________
Roger in NJ
" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948
TAC - NJ 18
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05-16-2011, 06:18 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
1983 31' Excella
2005 30' Classic
1993 33' Land Yacht
Wellfleet
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 109
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What thickness is the plywood ? 5/8 or 3/4
Don
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05-16-2011, 06:47 PM
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#9
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4 Rivet Member
1958 22' Flying Cloud
Folsom
, California
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 468
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I used 5/8, but wish I would have used 3/4". 5/8 seems flimsy.
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05-16-2011, 07:07 PM
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#10
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Always learning
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,881
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I used 3/4" MGP. It was around $60 per sheet. I coated it with West System epoxy and Deftahne polyurethane floor finish. There are higher grades of MGP that use meranti veneers. They are generally above $100 per sheet. If you use a high quality exterior grade plywood and completely coat it with epoxy, you'll have a floor that will last and
last. I attached the new flooring with 1/4"-20 stainless steel elevator bolts from Fastenal. I used 1/4"-20 stainless steel hex head bolts through the C channel. I used the self drilling/tapping floor repair screws similar to what VTS sells with mediocre results to patch a few areas. They strip too easily.
__________________
Lance
Work is never done, so take time to play!
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05-17-2011, 12:08 AM
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#11
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Just picked up my MGP today. I went with the Aquatec Maranti 5/8. I toyed with the idea of 3/4 but the added weight was a concern. Also like Top I am useing West Systems Epoxy for the edges.
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05-17-2011, 06:15 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Currently Looking...
Great Lake State
, .
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joneslacey
Do I have to use marine grade plywood or can I just use something else?
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I went with 3/4" AC plywood at $44.00 a sheet, a few small voids by the same water proof glue used in marine plywood, marine plywood to me is a waste of money, your not building a boat..........
toastie
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05-17-2011, 06:26 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Currently Looking...
Great Lake State
, .
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joneslacey
How did you reattach the plywood to the frame?
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Try these, use a Forstner bit to countersink the head fully.
Floor Repair Bolts
toastie
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05-17-2011, 07:00 AM
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#14
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1 Rivet Member
pottsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 5
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I used mdo 3/4" which is a exterior 7 or more ply that is coated on both sides. We use it for form boards for concrete walls and it last. I used it on the bed and sides of a flat bed trailer i have and that was ten years ago (no delamination and it sits out side in all weather conditions).
Used it on the floor replacement in the back end of our airstream no worries.
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05-17-2011, 07:35 AM
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#15
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retired USA/USAF
2001 30' Excella
Somerset
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,418
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I also used 3/4" ext. grade. If you need to slip it into a "C" channel it will help to use a router and shave off a bit from the edge down to about 5/8" so it will slip into the channel. I also took a roundover bit and gave the channel edge a roundover on both sides. I think it will make it go into the channel easier. Gives the floor a good stable feeling when you walk on it. I also chose to re-enforce the spans between frame rails with a strip of plywood screwed below. Makes a nice secure joint, reduced movement and floor squeaks as you walk on it. I didn't glue it but that would be a good thought.
__________________
Roger in NJ
" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948
TAC - NJ 18
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