STEP-BY-STEP Shell-Off Floor Replacement

[Zeppelinium]

Originally Posted by doglickfarms

I...completely gutted my 72' overlander, down to the shell and the frame. The shell is still attached to the frame. As I was painting the frame, I noticed on the driver's side that the c-channel, which was sitting on top of the frame, has now slipped off. Any ideas how to get it back on? ...

Do you mean the C-channel has slipped off the outriggers? IF so, I assume on one side? You had taken the floor out? If this is right, I'm thinking the shell has bowed a little--can you lift up the edge and push it back on? Most members install an internal brace to prevent this bowing.

If you're interior skin is off, I'd drop some bolts through the C-channel and the outrigger bolt holes along one side. Then you could cut a 2x4 (what's the width dimension at the floor, about 86"?) and secure it to the C-channel on that side, then have a buddy help you lift and push the fallen side up and back on the outriggers. Then drop bolts on that side. The bolts are just "pins" so don't need nuts, unless you're outside and the wind is what did this in the first place.

Zep

[doglickfarms]

Thanks Zep. I will try that. While rebuilding this camper, I have learned that the old saying, " patience is a virtue " is very much a true saying!

Bob

[doglickfarms]

Zep,

I am not understanding the part about the 2x4 ( about the width of the floor and securing it to what side?

Bob

[Zeppelinium]

Originally Posted by doglickfarms

..I am not understanding the part about the 2x4 ( about the width of the floor and securing it to what side?...

It's a "spreader" so that when you pick up the slipped side and put it back up on the outriggers, you don't push it in too far. The 2x4 is just a brace to maintain the proper width across the floor. You might use two or three, even.

Securing it to one side (the side that's still up on the frame) is just so that it doesn't fall down in the midst of all your lifting and pushing.

If your shell was able to fall off the frame, seems it must be disconnected. You could get 3 10' 2x4s and slide them under the C-channel, crosswise and let the 2x4s rest on the frame and the shell rest on the 2x4s. This way you could nail blocks to the 2x4s to maintain the shell width.

Zep

[malconium]

Bob,

I had some problems with this too. There are a couple of things that I can recommend as follows:

1. Use a ratcheting type of luggage strap to pull the body inward. You can hook to the body on the other side or even to some place on the frame. It does not need a lot of force either.
2. One easy way to lift the body edge up is to attach a strip of plywood or 1 x 4 length-wise along the bottom of the body on the side that needs to be lifted perhaps 6" or so above the floor. You can use sheet metal screws to hold it to the body ribs. I am assuming the inner skin is off by the way. You can then use a piece of 2x4 and a block of wood as a lever to lift up on the strip of wood. The point is that you want to avoid lifting the body edge from the bottom of the c-channel becaus it is kind of easy to bend so that it is harder to get the floor back in place.

I used a framework of 2x4 crosswise to both hold the body together side to side as well as to keep the body up. I am attaching a photo that shows the gereral idea. The cross pieces are at a good height to allow a small hyrdralic jack to be set under any part I want to lift up. The short vertical pieces are 2x4 attached with 1/4" plywood so that they are removable if they are in the way when I am working in a particular area.

Let me know if the above is not clear enough and I can explain further.

Malcolm

[doglickfarms]

Thanks for the advice. I have gotten it back up on the outrigger and I am now ready to start putting it back to together again, I hope!!

Bob