I forgot to mention earlier that there are fans available called duct fans that are specifically designed to be installed either inside a duct or inline with a duct. In the link below are some that are listed at Home Depot. As you can see they are readily available. The fact that an AC unit pretty much needs shore power (or a generator) meas that it would be perfectly fine for the duct fan to run on 110 power. Metal ducting is pretty readily available as are vents and grills for the ends. It would be pretty simple to install a duct with vents at both ends and a duct fan in the middle. All we have to do is find room for it. You can see from the link that Home Depot carries them in sizes as small as 4" diameter.
It is neat how threads wander, change and develop. You started with one Air Stream now have 3?, a boat and a baby or 2 if I remember correctly.
I admire your work.
How are you doing the air handling (HVAC) in your rigs?
R
especially these LONG term projects. I foolishly thought I'd have my 18 footer done in 6 months, then we got pregnant with baby #1, and I bought a trade wind to camp in while I was restoring the 18 footer....
THEN, a friend made me an offer on another 19 footer (globe trotter) that I couldn't refuse, AND WE GOT PREGNANT WITH BABY #2... oh, and I bought a FeatherCraft boat.... ha!
I'm still planning (hopefully not FUTILELY) to have the 18 footer at least camp-able by April... I have a lot on at the moment! the bottom line... NO MORE PROJECTS for me until I wrap up at least one trailer and a boat. haha!
Now I'm definitely inspired to fit the water tank and finish the bed installation this weekend on the little trailer... but WILL i have time?
On the air conditioner thread. My plan is to use a split mini. This is a separate outside unit and inside blower. I plan on installing quick connects. The unit says to not disconnect and connect more than 7 times. I think this is due to possible loss of coolant. I may need to recharge the AC now and again. This may not work in the long run. My thoughts are that I too do not want a big AC on top. Also, I can always leave the AC home (at least half of it) when I do not need AC. The unit is also a heat pump, so I can use it as the heater too. Anybody's input on the intelligence of these thoughts would be appreciated.
On the wood interior thread. I plan on putting a 3/32 cork underlay and then applying a veneer to my walls. I too like the rich wood look. I plan on using strips on the lower walls to give a wainscot, bead board look. I plan on using a dark marker to stain the seam between strips. This should give the appearance of a bead and separate each strip. I plan on using a strip per panel on the front end cap. My Flying Cloud has 11 panels so I should be able to get veneer strips wide enough. I would polish the middle panel between the lower and ceiling to a mirror finish. This will help make the space larger. I am not sure what to do with the ceiling. The back end cap, which will be above a bed will be polished. Mirrors on the ceiling, woo hoo. Again, anybody's input on the intelligence of these thoughts would be appreciated.
Let me add I appreciate this thread and JC's and Uwe's and many more.
especially these LONG term projects. I foolishly thought I'd have my 18 footer done in 6 months, then we got pregnant with baby #1, and I bought a trade wind to camp in while I was restoring the 18 footer....
THEN, a friend made me an offer on another 19 footer (globe trotter) that I couldn't refuse, AND WE GOT PREGNANT WITH BABY #2... oh, and I bought a FeatherCraft boat.... ha!
I'm still planning (hopefully not FUTILELY) to have the 18 footer at least camp-able by April... I have a lot on at the moment! the bottom line... NO MORE PROJECTS for me until I wrap up at least one trailer and a boat. haha!
Now I'm definitely inspired to fit the water tank and finish the bed installation this weekend on the little trailer... but WILL i have time?
JP
Sounds like the story of my life too (except the pregnant part).
Well, now that I've read your Feathercraft thread, it's easy to see why you haven't had time to work on the AS. (Nice work on the boat, btw, looks fantastic).
I've recently begun looking for a vintage AS of my own, but it seems that there aren't any on the market because American has bought them all up! Still, perhaps he'll allow some of us trailer-less folk to have one some day soon?
Anyway, I've been reading through all of the Full Monte threads, and I've really enjoyed it. It makes me all the more eager to get my hands on one of these to tinker with on my own. Your work on this trailer is first-rate, and you also have some great and innovative ideas.
I do have a question on the birch paneling, and please forgive me if you've already answered it-- I read through the 38 pages as closely as I could, but I'm bound to have missed some details along the way. My question is, what thickness of birch did you use, and where did you source it? Also, did you do anything special to get it to follow the curves, or is it thin enough to do so on its own?
Good luck on the remaining part of your restoration, I look forard to seeing it completed.
I used 1/16" baltic Birch. It comes in 5X5 panels from any good hardwood store. It bends great, BUT it only bends one direction, so if you look really close at the pics, the corners have the grain running up and down, while the top has the grain running front to back. Hope that helps!
Thanks, much appreciated. I also just completed Carlos' thread in the midst of my "Monte Marathon" and it's interesting to see how the two of you have done some things similar, and others quite different. The attention to detail that both of you pay is outstanding..
I'm about to rebuild the deck of my boat over the next couple of weekends since lake season is upon us, but after that I really would love to find a vintage AS and restore it myself. I've gotten a lot of inspiration from many of you on this forum.
I wonder if you might reconsider taking the shell and the belly pan off--It seems that you only want to weld, and that can be done with the shell & belly pan on.
I have to admit, I'm a bit leery about pulling off the shell--it just seems to open up a whole new range of complication and possibilities for damage. Plus, I've noticed around here that there is a much higher likelihood that folks quit on a project with a shell-off instead of keeping it on. So, when we had to start structural repairs last spring, we decided to go the shell-on route (and we are doing many of the repairs you mention).
We've done quite a bit of welding of trailer frame members from the inside with no problem. You also don't have to take the shell off, even for the outriggers. Same for new tanks. Really, the only reason I can think of where you absolutely have to remove the shell is to remove and replace the trailer frame.
Regarding the belly pan, in our era of trailer, the attachments held both the bellypan, shell and floor on together in a rather complex clamshell arrangment. You can't attach any of these independent of the other two elements. I'm not sure about your planned sequence--it appears a bit out of whack for replacement (I'll have to work this through a bit more).
For belly pan issues, the preferred technique (again, for this era trailers only) seems to be to cut it out below the line of sight. But why cut it out, unless you plan to have something (like a tank) hang at lower clearance? And then, even if you do add in a tank, all you really should need to cut out is the affected location, not the whole thing.
BTW--you may want to consider cutting out the floor in sections, so you can still have a bit of a platform for working on the innards, then you can cut it off, section by section to replace the flooring.
I hope you don't mind my devil's advocate questions. There are folks here who have done lovely jobs with full shell-off efforts. But I think they would all admit that the job was huge--and all I wonder is, why bring on that extra effort if you don't need to (since the effort really doesn't seems to offer any meaningful advantage)?
Mary
Hi Mary,
my name is Adrian & I'm in the UK restoring a 1962 Overlander. I've got to remove the floor (rotten as a pear) - any tips would be most gratefully recieved.
thanks
Adrian
I am new to the website, so I don't know if this is the right place for this question -- I have a 1972 Overlander and can anyone tell me where I can purchase a new axle and new wheel-well covers ? Thanks
welcome, doglick, axles available from any Dexter axle dealer (Dexter) or Inland RV (Henschen)..many threads on this, use the 'search' function...
-better to post new topic in a new "thread", in that section of forums...
- unrelated question is called "hijacking" a thread, but we'll let ya slide this time ;-) you'll find the answer to most any airstream question here! good luck!
Hi Mary,
my name is Adrian & I'm in the UK restoring a 1962 Overlander. I've got to remove the floor (rotten as a pear) - any tips would be most gratefully recieved.
thanks
Adrian
Hi Adrian and welcome to the forums. I suggest that you go to the Search function at the top of the forum and search for "floor replace". Also a good place to start is the following thread. If you look at my post number 10 I give some other links to places where I give details about tools and techniques that worked for me.
I need some HELP !! I have completely gutted my 72' overlander, down to the shell and the frame. The shell is still attached to the frame. As I was painting the frame, I noticed on the driver's side that the c-channel, which was sitting on top of the frame, has now slipped off. Any ideas how to get it back on? Has anyone ever had this happen? Or, am I going to need to take the shell off?
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(Nice work on the boat, btw, looks fantastic).
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