I go this weekend to pick up my "new" 63 Bambi. It needs work but it is a solid original. Today I found two, mind you two, small older Airstreams right here by my home. First one is a 65 Trade Wind and the other is ?? , a 22 footer, early 60's, I am not familiar with. Both have perfect bodies and absolutely trashed original interiors. Too many goodies here and I am greedy...then I look at the major work involved...see this thread...Maybe I can get the Bambi and work on the other(s)?
that's the spirit! i have a tradewind to camp in while i finish the 18 footer, then i'll be ready for something else! why have just ONE camper? everything is better in 3s, they say...
We haven't had rain here in Phoenix in something like 120 days! Plus it's been in the 70's. Normally I prefer a little bit of rain, but not in the middle of an off-frame restoration
i hear ya! it rained like crazy right when i was putting the floor and belly pan on... what should have taken a week, took 3!
i'll say it again... I NEED A BARN!!! a BIG one! ha!
that's the spirit! i have a tradewind to camp in while i finish the 18 footer, then i'll be ready for something else! why have just ONE camper? everything is better in 3s, they say...
This thread raised a question for me that I wondered about. I had one section of floor in the back that was replaced. I took off the lower inside panels to expose the "U" channel from the inside. On the outside was the storage compartment so that was all accessible from underneath allowing new bolts to be added to reconnect the new section of floor to the "U" channel. That's all been bolted in.
There is one more small section up under the front window that I was going to use penetrating epoxy on but considered replacing. My question is:
If a small section of floor is cut out that was bolted to the "u" channel, how, unless you take down the belly pan and bannana rap would you re connect the new floor to the U channel (effectively). Can you do this just from the inside ? Sorry for any misspelled words.
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"It takes a village to raise a silver twinkie."
any one know how to sandblast zolatone off,and what the skin would look like. re. 1965 globe trotter 20'.
SCS, From what I understand, underneath that Zolatone is a nice, shiny aluminum skin. I was told by a friend of mine who is an aviation mechanic NOT to sandblast aluminum. Long term, it supposedly causes metal corrosion.
Do a search on Zolotone removal, or some such wording, using the search button above. I've read in a couple of threads about various paint removers being used by forum members.
Jim
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What is that line from "Miracle on 34th Street"? Something like "Maybe he's only a little crazy, like those men in Washington."
Well , I have an Idea , you can use a soda blaster to take off that Zolotone , I think It might work , I have a 1976 overlander and a 1963 Soverign , I also have a 1951 Spartan Imperial mansion which I probally should not mention here. Im going to be using a soda blaster to remove all the oxidation off my tralers, this will make it easier and less time consuming when I start the pollishing .I have seen this work quite nicely on a vintage mustang to remove all the old paint and it worked great, no pitting . The only down side is that the bigger units run many thousands of dollars but there is one made by http://www.ace-sandblasting.com/soda-blasting.html that runs about $249.00.
I was thinking today, after removing wall panels and belly skin to fish the wires from my breakaway switch and an aux. input for my stereo to the back of the trailer, why didn't I run more conduit?
If I was starting over I would run conduit lines from my electrical center to where-ever I wanted my main switch panel as well as several other points around the airstream. I am finding that my ideas develop as I go along and I find new needs for electric or switches... I ran a lot of wire, but it would be nice to have a way to run other things later....
Just some thoughts. Hope you are well and get time to work on your trailer(s!)
I was thinking today, after removing wall panels and belly skin to fish the wires from my breakaway switch and an aux. input for my stereo to the back of the trailer, why didn't I run more conduit?
If I was starting over I would run conduit lines from my electrical center to where-ever I wanted my main switch panel as well as several other points around the airstream. I am finding that my ideas develop as I go along and I find new needs for electric or switches... I ran a lot of wire, but it would be nice to have a way to run other things later....
Just some thoughts. Hope you are well and get time to work on your trailer(s!)
Carlos
Do you have any pictures or details of how you installed the comduit in your trailer. What problems did you face as you were making the installation?
Don
I put one long front to rear conduit underneath, routed through the frame. It comes up above the floor in the very center of the front and center of the back. Under is easiest probably (I think you just finished this part Don, of course) Maybe smaller conduit could be run through the walls...
I was thinking today, after removing wall panels and belly skin to fish the wires from my breakaway switch and an aux. input for my stereo to the back of the trailer, why didn't I run more conduit?
thanks for the tip. i've read that in a few posts as well. i was thinking about running one conduit down the spine, and maybe one along each side, below the windows. a lot of the stuff will be covered up with my plan when it's all said and done, but once i rivet those inner skins back on... i really don't wanna go back in!
it was nice to get back on the little guy cutting the window in. i just about put my eye out with some metal shears during that fiasco! i wish the weather would STAY warm! it's hard when the enthusiasm kicks in, and it's only 40 degrees outside... (yes, i know that's WARM to you, carlos!). the rear window is going to take a LOT of work to get it fit. i'm basically having to combind an early 60s window in a 59 frame, and the 2 couldn't be more different. worst case, the rear window won't open. i've got the pieces piled up in the garage. new drip cap enroute. recessed tail lights. i guess the winter's been about collecting stuff.
as for the other trailer, MUCH easier to work on, with a heater! this weekend, i'm pulling out the original (leaky) AC, and the vinyl roofing inside the sleeping cabin, and redoing the vinyl with all new material. i kinda like that 60's vintage look, ya know? i'll have to post some pics somewhere.
do you think a vintage AC unit is worth saving? i thought i'd put it on eBay to see if it could find a good home. you never know!
I put one long front to rear conduit underneath, routed through the frame. It comes up above the floor in the very center of the front and center of the back. Under is easiest probably (I think you just finished this part Don, of course) Maybe smaller conduit could be run through the walls...
Carlos
Carlos, It's too late for me to run inside the frame, you are right on that. However you did give me an idea. I can run conduit inside along the road side wall. There are built in all the way from front to back on that side. I could but junction boxes in front, middle and back. That would give me lots of options.
Thanks Don
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Well , I have an Idea , you can use a soda blaster to take off that Zolotone , I think It might work , I have a 1976 overlander and a 1963 Soverign , I also have a 1951 Spartan Imperial mansion which I probally should not mention here. Im going to be using a soda blaster to remove all the oxidation off my tralers, this will make it easier and less time consuming when I start the pollishing .I have seen this work quite nicely on a vintage mustang to remove all the old paint and it worked great, no pitting . The only down side is that the bigger units run many thousands of dollars but there is one made by 
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