Is that the drip rail for the door you have marked? Are you fabricating new? I found that fabrication to be relatively easy - if you have access to a brake for bending the little lip on the outside edge. I made mine out of .040 and it is a lot stronger than the original - I think I will fabricate window trim in the same way - the original is so flimsy...
Good luck this weekend!
Carlos
that was for teh awning rail, actually. i saw your door molding, though, and do think i might give it a try. a friend of mine has all the big tools for the job.
Is that the drip rail for the door you have marked? Are you fabricating new? I found that fabrication to be relatively easy - if you have access to a brake for bending the little lip on the outside edge. I made mine out of .040 and it is a lot stronger than the original - I think I will fabricate window trim in the same way - the original is so flimsy...
Good luck this weekend!
Carlos
that was for teh awning rail, actually. i saw your door molding, though, and do think i might give it a try. a friend of mine has all the big tools for the job.
Here is the vent if you want it, like I said, ugly with sealant, but I think both risers work and you could get a new top... It might not be worth the work though, Uwe, what did you use for that big space up there? Is it a fantastic vent product?
Carlos
thanks carlos! let me take some measurements tomorrow and see how well it will fit. is the top piece all aluminum? i might be able to fabricate something with a glass center to let the stars in. that's the plan, anyway.
LAST piece is in, and the door way opening roughed in as well. next up is cleaning up the door supports, and remounting the door, then i plan on tackling the eyebrow over the doorway. i really might see if i can fabricate something for that. it could definitely use a sturdier piece than the original.
After an unbelievably busy month (November), I finally got a chance to update the journal on a few bits and pieces Ive buttoned up on the pickle. A little polishing on the end caps were in order to see what lies ahead of me, as well as clean it up to install the 3 clearance lights on the front. I figured it would be easier to polish things without the lenses in the way. I also plugged a few extra holes from past clearance lights with rivets. At some point in the trailers past, it had 3 lights, then 4, and what looks like 2. If this thing could talk... (what would it say about ME in a few years?). While I was at it, I finished putting in all the running lights, sealed and riveted in place. Nothings wired yet. My main goal is to get the shell sealed and leak-free at SOME point this (make that NEXT year).
The next thing I fixed was a nagging issue i had with the wheel well on the door side. I cut a cover-up piece too small when I was finishing up the body panels. The purpose of the cover-up piece was 2 fold. when I did the belly pan, i did not allow enough material in the mill aluminum to meet with the original wheel well cutouts. Secondly, i wanted alclad aluminum in the center section, so it would bling up as nice as the top will. I had been putting off cutting out the bad piece and installing it long enough (I really HATE doing stuff twice! especially when its due to my own stupidity!) Anyway, out with the old, in with the new. That Vulkem I used did NOT want to let go! (good news for the rest of the trailer). After the piece was in place, I followed Carloss thread on the trim for the wheel wells. Very simple, and OH SO worth the effort. First, I mark the center of the trim piece, since my wheel wells are peaked. Next, I marked the curves on the tabs, cut small tabs, and pulled them apart with 2 pairs of pliers. After test fitting that in place, i marked on the back where the radius curve of the belly pan starts, and bent the trim around a small paint can. At this point, the piece doesnt look like much, but once its beat into place on the body, it looks great! When drilling the rivet holes, I held a small scrap of wood against the back of the trim to make sure nothing changed locations when the holes drilled. I love the way the trim disappears under the trailer before it ends. Very clean.
What's next? Windows, and the door eyebrow, I guess... then MAYBE (with the aid of a space heater) I can start on the interior this winter. progress, albiet slow is still progress!
got this info from carlos. here's the link to the one you need. have it cut into 4 foot pieces for shipment, unless you are doing a tandem axle. anything over 5 feet costs loads more to ship. i have an extra 4 foot piece i'm thinking about using on either side of the step area. why not? i've got it left over, right?
I have been reading your thread and don't know what you decided on your vents and I don't see any in your latest post. But, I have to weigh in on the fantastic fans. I added 3 this weekend to my 27' Overlander and am thoroughly impressed with how they came out and how they work.
I have read about your idea of a glass sunroof and all I can say is nooooooooooo! I have seen the UV damage inside my Airstream and whatever I can UV protect, I definitely will. Sun exposure over the past almost 30 years has all but destroyed my endcaps. This is one of the reasons I opted for the UV protected fans.
The major reason of course being that I have animals and plan to full time starting in the spring and would not put them at risk should I lose power.
Your work is awesome! Good Luck, stay warm!. It was sunny but a bit chill on top of the trailer at 40 degrees here in Alabama!
Okay, so I'm really curious if you floor-replacement experts think that I need to replace my floor. I have three small holes in it (about 6" across each) in different places. One looks like it was from water coming in through a broken (now replaced) window, one because of water coming up from underneath where the belly pan was damaged, and one below the refrigerator where over the years of defrosting the unit, water got on the floor. Anyhow, the floor feels solid everywhere... except for the holes obviously, but they're just holes, not soft around the holes.
ankornuta,
My biggest concern would be if the holes are right at an outrigger on the frame where the floor and channel bolt down. I would remove or at least partially remove the interior skins just far enough to make sure. FWIW I had 2 6" soft spots at the front of my unit, directly under some window leaks. Turns out the main hold down bolts were wallowed out and one was sheared off. I basically had no structural strength at the front end of the trailer. From the inside it was barely noticeable.
Aaron
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....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #2449 AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
I have been reading your thread and don't know what you decided on your vents...
i haven't really thought too much about it lately, but i guess it's time. the problem is my little trailer only has one vent on top, and i plan on using one of those low-profile models i saw (can't remember the make) but they are only 6-7" tall. if i use that in the venter vent, i'd have to cut a new hole for the fantastic. that's kinda what lead me to thinking about a sunroof... but i totally understand your concerns with UV. the light coming through our windows at home turned a red rug grey in just a couple of years. i put a UV inhibitor on the windows, and everything is cool, now. if i did a sunroof in the pickle, i'd do the same for it. i'm still undecided at any rate. better make up my mind fast, eh? once the leaks are plugged, it's decision time!
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