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Old 10-05-2014, 10:46 AM   #15
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
well back to floor removal, it was not coming up in one big piece that's for sure. we set the circular saw to the right height and cut strips in to the floor so we could work with smaller areas for the removal
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Old 10-05-2014, 10:54 AM   #16
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
Here is the nicely painted wing window surrounds

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oops and a sneak peek of what my finished floor looks like...
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Old 10-05-2014, 11:09 AM   #17
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
after killing ourselves prying the piece up, trying to break through the elevator bolts as well as fighting with the super glue strength of the spray foam we thought there has to be a better way...

Voila....out comes the hole cutting drill set, remove the center drill bit from your mandrel and cut around each elevator bolt head
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why the " H, E, double hockey stick" didn't we think of this earlier?
Life just got so much easier... Spot the Canadian there?

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Sadly if you have glue down laminate flooring your life just got harder as you will need to remove your flooring to be able to find your elevator bolt heads are. or I guess you could climb under the trailer and grind them off but that would involve pulling your belly pan back further than I have at this point.

It is now easy the pry the boards up, once we had all the boards we had sectioned up from the one side removed we hooked a cut wheel up to the compressor and cut them all off

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Old 10-05-2014, 11:16 AM   #18
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
I was amazed at how well preserved all the metal was given the level of moisture in the plywood, whatever paint they used on the structural beams it was still very intact. I suspect they may have applied the plywood board to the floor beams while the paint was wet as when we pulled the boards up some of it stayed bonded to the plywood instead of the beam
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Old 10-05-2014, 11:35 AM   #19
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
You will need to purchase about 24 elevator bolts for the front end replacement. There are six along each support beam including one hitting an outrigger at each end, (more on outriggers later) with two beams that get the bolts and 10 within the perimeter C channel There is the one beam where the piece you are replacing meets the next sheet of plywood it has a sort of plywood bridge underneath that the plywood sits on top of. I saw no noticeable adhesive or mounting screws here. You can see a bit of the plywood mounting plate in the lower left of this picture.
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The metal mesh you can see in the floor at the top is the venting area under the refrigerator. We went up and pulled the upper refer roof vent and it was in very bad shape. The PO's obviously thought it wasn't worth the effort to remove the hood scoop to repair/replace the sealants and just kept reaching in adding more goo.
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A little metal work and painting and proper resealing will make it good as new. New scoops and flashing can be purchased at Vintage trailer supply or Inland if yours are to far gone
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Old 10-05-2014, 11:51 AM   #20
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
I have decided I love spray foam insulation. All of the metal I have chiseled the foam away from is in excellent shape. I was stunned to see that the area under the broken window was still very solid. I know the PO's had a hack job for a window replacement that leaked like a sieve so I expected to have extensive welding in this area
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So all was good with with our frame with the exception of an outrigger on the drivers side. I suspect that was damaged due to leaky plumbing at some point. We'll be redoing the plumbing so that is no problem. We cut out the one religious outrigger to replace the holy part later. The was no visible weld from the top side so we will continue on with our floor replacement and weld the replacement in from the bottom when we get the new part bent by a friend later
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Old 10-05-2014, 11:54 AM   #21
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
 
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1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 345
Hi: Just across the border from you and am doing the same thing. Yours and the
several other threads on this topic have been very help full and have kept me going
through desperation and insanity as I dig deeper and find evidence of serious problems.
Looks like I'm probably the 3rd person to start on a restoration attempt and the P.O.'s
ended up giving up.
As such all that's going to be original of this trailer is 2/3rd of the shell, 9/10's of the chassis (1/3rd of the out riggers are shot as well as 3 inter-longitudinal cross braces).
Keep up the good work....I'm off to cut out more flooring and drop the fwd. section of belly pan as it's easier to stand on the ground and rip up the floor.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:09 PM   #22
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
Nice theory..but I found that when we dropped the belly pan all of the propane piping in my trailer is attached right to the belly pan. I didn't want to go through the process of remove the LP lines, or to damage them by standing on the pan so I have been working from above standing on a plywood scrap

Here's the belly pan dropped, Hmm I guess I forgot to mention anyone attempting this will need to remove to corner banana wraps as that is what the bottom belly pan fit on to
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And here are the LP lines hanging on the far side
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Have fun!
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Old 10-06-2014, 11:26 PM   #23
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
Feel around in between the C channel and the frame for any jaggedy obstructions or missed screws that may be in your way when you are sliding a new board in and grind them flush if you find anything. Vacuum and thoroughly clean all the edges where your new boards will be sliding in.
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Take the time to paint all the visible frame metal you can access from above. I used Por 15. I used a sacrificial plank to sit on while painting so i wasn't killing my self trying to balance on two inch beams with a wet paint brush in hand.
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Note I did not break out all of the spray foam insulation. I only pried out areas where I needed to access something or wherever I was concerned that there may have been excessive water infiltration and I wanted to ensure the frame was sound, If you are going through this much work there is absolutely no point to do anything half a**. I was very pleasantly surprised that I only have the one outrigger to replace. I am most definitely using spray foam when I re-insulate when we are done, it seemed to act as a moisture barrier and protected the heck out of the metal frame
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Old 10-06-2014, 11:54 PM   #24
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
I learned a very important lesson in this floor removal process. Never vacuum a bad floor. Well at the beginning I thought the rot wasn't that bad,my habit of vacuuming my work area regularly actually whittled away so much of the wood that I no longer have a usable template...oops. Not to mention my butchery job to get the boards out just to make sure there was no hope at all anyway
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:06 AM   #25
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
No worries, Some of the substrates that get delivered to my sign shop comes wrapped in full 8 by 8 pieces of really good quality cardboard so I brought some home to form the template. First I measured the width of the trailer and marked out where my center line was. Then I slipped a tape measure under the C channel at the very front of the trailer right up to the exterior aluminum skin and measured the length back to the good solid seam near the kitchen. I cut the piece to a rectangle this size and wriggled it back and forth until I was sure the cardboard was snug against the side and front, whilst popping the corner of the rectangle out the front of the trailer

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I then went outside and marked out my curve, pushing the cardboard down some so I could mark inside the aluminum skin about an eight of an inch
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:10 AM   #26
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
Then I went back inside and wiggled it around a bit more to ensure it fit well. As my floor vent was on the side I was working on I just lifted the cardboard up so I could see where there vent was and stabbed through there with an exacto knife. Then I pushed the cardboard down hard and with cautious but even pressure I cut around the inside of the ductwork. Sorry no pics, I was working on not cutting myself. I then took the card board outside and cut it with scissors and the exacto knife to form the complete template.
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:12 AM   #27
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
Since I work in the sign shop I have access to amazing plywood at cost. I will be using MDO - Medium Density Overlay - Here is a cut and paste on the specs

MDO Plywood - The Paintable General Purpose Panel
Characteristics: An EXTERIOR type plywood with a weather-resistant resin overlay bonded to the wood by heat and pressure. This process fuses the molecules of the overlay with the fibres of the wood to form a bond as strong as the wood itself. MDO has all the advantages of regular plywood as well as additional properties. The overlay, which has 28% resin content, resists water, weather, wear and degradation. It has texture that paint can grip with remarkable tenacity. Paint finishes on MDO are up to three times more durable than the same finish applied to ordinary plywood.Ideal for Painted Signs: In many instances, overlaid MDO plywood has proven a more durable sign material than metal. MDO plywood is resistant to the elements with no danger of rust or corrosion.
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:28 AM   #28
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
I have signs out there that I have made from MDO that have been up completely exposed to the elements for 15 plus years with no noticeable degredation. The most important thing to making your board last, any boards is surface and particularly edge of the board preparartion. If you want it to be bullet proof finish all the edges. My boards came pre painted so I will only have to do the cut edges. I cut my boards with a fine tooth wood blade with a jig saw
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Next I use a small hand planer to round out the edges, This IS the most important step. Paint will fail very quickly on sharp edges on rounded edges it will last forever.
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Then I gave it a rubdown with a coarse file to make sure my primer had a textured surface to bite in to
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If your material has a lot of voids in it you can fill them with bondo. It is what we use all the time on exterior signage. With MDO there are very few if any voids. I had one tiny 1/2 cm one so I just squished it full of paint and primer. Then take the time to prime then paint and you are good to slide that piece in to your trailer
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