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Old 04-15-2008, 09:17 AM   #533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doglickfarms
I...completely gutted my 72' overlander, down to the shell and the frame. The shell is still attached to the frame. As I was painting the frame, I noticed on the driver's side that the c-channel, which was sitting on top of the frame, has now slipped off. Any ideas how to get it back on? ...
Do you mean the C-channel has slipped off the outriggers? IF so, I assume on one side? You had taken the floor out? If this is right, I'm thinking the shell has bowed a little--can you lift up the edge and push it back on? Most members install an internal brace to prevent this bowing.

If you're interior skin is off, I'd drop some bolts through the C-channel and the outrigger bolt holes along one side. Then you could cut a 2x4 (what's the width dimension at the floor, about 86"?) and secure it to the C-channel on that side, then have a buddy help you lift and push the fallen side up and back on the outriggers. Then drop bolts on that side. The bolts are just "pins" so don't need nuts, unless you're outside and the wind is what did this in the first place.

Zep
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:25 AM   #534
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Thanks Zep. I will try that. While rebuilding this camper, I have learned that the old saying, " patience is a virtue " is very much a true saying!

Bob
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Old 04-15-2008, 11:21 AM   #535
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Zep,

I am not understanding the part about the 2x4 ( about the width of the floor and securing it to what side?

Bob
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Old 04-15-2008, 01:59 PM   #536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doglickfarms
..I am not understanding the part about the 2x4 ( about the width of the floor and securing it to what side?...
It's a "spreader" so that when you pick up the slipped side and put it back up on the outriggers, you don't push it in too far. The 2x4 is just a brace to maintain the proper width across the floor. You might use two or three, even.

Securing it to one side (the side that's still up on the frame) is just so that it doesn't fall down in the midst of all your lifting and pushing.

If your shell was able to fall off the frame, seems it must be disconnected. You could get 3 10' 2x4s and slide them under the C-channel, crosswise and let the 2x4s rest on the frame and the shell rest on the 2x4s. This way you could nail blocks to the 2x4s to maintain the shell width.

Zep
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:48 PM   #537
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Bob,

I had some problems with this too. There are a couple of things that I can recommend as follows:
  1. Use a ratcheting type of luggage strap to pull the body inward. You can hook to the body on the other side or even to some place on the frame. It does not need a lot of force either.
  2. One easy way to lift the body edge up is to attach a strip of plywood or 1 x 4 length-wise along the bottom of the body on the side that needs to be lifted perhaps 6" or so above the floor. You can use sheet metal screws to hold it to the body ribs. I am assuming the inner skin is off by the way. You can then use a piece of 2x4 and a block of wood as a lever to lift up on the strip of wood. The point is that you want to avoid lifting the body edge from the bottom of the c-channel becaus it is kind of easy to bend so that it is harder to get the floor back in place.
I used a framework of 2x4 crosswise to both hold the body together side to side as well as to keep the body up. I am attaching a photo that shows the gereral idea. The cross pieces are at a good height to allow a small hyrdralic jack to be set under any part I want to lift up. The short vertical pieces are 2x4 attached with 1/4" plywood so that they are removable if they are in the way when I am working in a particular area.

Let me know if the above is not clear enough and I can explain further.

Malcolm
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Old 04-16-2008, 11:06 AM   #538
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Thanks for the advice. I have gotten it back up on the outrigger and I am now ready to start putting it back to together again, I hope!!

Bob
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Old 05-21-2008, 02:06 PM   #539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
now, speaking of strippers (CHEMICAL, boys!), i tried 3 or 4 different ones, and the best by FAR was Ace Hardware's "Heavy Duty" brand. it cut through all 10 layers in one pass. put it on, let it sit for 15 minutes and drink a beer.. put on another coat, and drink another beer, then blast away. DON'T buy Bix. that's what i started with. it took em off one layer at a time. i like beer and all... but i had 14 panels to do!

i'm REALLY looking forward to getting the interior started on this tin can!

jp
Reading back through your thread JP, and I didn't see if you ever mentioned it, but I'm assuming one of those 10 layers that you stripped was the original zolatone? How did it strip compared to the others? I've seen the finished product and the endcaps obviously look great, but just wondering if the original zolatone was still intact under all those layers, and how tough it was to strip that in addition to all of the other layers?

(Yes, I realize this particular post is two years old, hopefully you'll remember. )

Thanks!
-Marcus
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Old 05-22-2008, 06:52 AM   #540
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I used chemical stripper to get most of the paint and gunk off, then ended up sanding it. It was time consuming, if I remember correctly!

I know this post is old, and I haven't had any time to work on the little guy... BUT we are definitely planning on taking this trailer with us to the falluminum rally! Hopefully I'll have a little more time in the next months to work on it. I just got the fridge for it last week. Now it's time to start planning the fridge cabinet. Maybe over the holiday weekend...

JP
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Old 05-22-2008, 07:45 AM   #541
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Thanks for the reply JP, much appreciated. When I get an A/S of my own, I'd consider taking the zolatone off in certain places, and am trying to gather as much information as possible about it. There are a couple of decent threads about it on the Interior forums, but in reading back through this thread I realized you must have stripped your endcaps rather than riveting in new aluminum as some others have done, so I was interested in how you did it.

Thanks again, I'm sure you'll get back to work on this one when you get a chance. Fall sounds like a good target.

Thanks!
-Marcus
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Old 05-23-2008, 05:47 AM   #542
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Not all airstreams had the aluminum end caps. You have to look for something from the late 50's or earlier. If you wanna go that route.

ONE of these days, I'll get my Whale-Tail, and I'll probably do the same thing again...

JP
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Old 05-23-2008, 06:30 AM   #543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
Not all airstreams had the aluminum end caps. You have to look for something from the late 50's or earlier. If you wanna go that route.

ONE of these days, I'll get my Whale-Tail, and I'll probably do the same thing again...

JP
Yeah, understood. I'm thinking maybe something like this...?
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Old 05-23-2008, 06:41 AM   #544
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As for the whale tail, I ended up passing on that one I forwarded to you a couple of months ago. Seller was asking too much and wouldn't budge, plus it was a single axle and I'm looking for tandem. It was really nice though, great shape and about 99% original.

-Marcus
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Old 06-23-2008, 08:08 AM   #545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can View Post
i took an "Airstream Day" today. boss said it was alright. ha!
A-Merry-Can - I really like what you & some others are doing in the resto's, putting thin wood on the ceilings.
1 - How are wood sections attached.
2 - Can you repost a photo of the ceiling using more light from any, source, as my old eyes can't see some details, one being whether or not in the final analysis that wood ceiling might give the inside of the trailer a too dark feeling. Personally, I love it!!
Keep up the good work.
Jim
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:33 AM   #546
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Thanks for the compliments! I feel horrible for not getting the little Traveller ready! This AM, I was looking through my iPhotos, and I haven't taken a pic of the trailer since my SON was born, and he's 6 months old!

First, I took some time off to get Bethany's boat ready (that was a 6 month project), and now I've started a redo of the interior of my Trade Wind. (on a side note: I decided to totally revamp the interior of our "camping" trailer, thinking it would be a quick fix... ha! It's REALLY nice, and ALMOST done! See Pics) I'll put in before and current. Removing the wall between the bedroom and the galley has REALLY opened the trailer up. We love the new layout (though it's not that different from the original, just more open).

Short list of updates:
  • Patched floor
  • Removed furnace and patched skin.
  • Patched over PO's nasty fridge vent
  • Removed wall and door between galley and bedroom
  • New Laminate flooring
  • New paint
  • New galley cabinet (the original was water-damaged beyond repair)
  • New Fridge and Cabinet
  • New overhead locker
  • New dinette layout (still in progress, not in photos)
  • Refinished original doors that were salvageable
  • Made new doors for those that weren't
  • I scored some original '64 cabinet hardware on eBay, and am using that on my new dinette arrangement. Looks original!

I feel like I'm hi-jacking my own thread here! ha! I'll post a higher res pic og the SUBJECT of this thread next...

JP
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