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Old 07-07-2005, 08:20 AM   #41
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1964 24' Tradewind
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Red face Poppin' the lid!

Another really productive day, despite the weather. It’s hurricane season, and all we get is the rain. Anyway, the shell is free from its rusty, mortal toils! Due to the weather (rains and high winds), I decided to leave the shell on the frame for now. All that’s left to do is lift it up on the supports, and roll the frame out. The “ugly” is almost over!

The first thing I did was finish removing the wheel wells. I wasn’t sure if this was totally necessary, but it enabled me to see exactly what the shell was doing. Also, when I reassemble it, I plan on putting it back together the same way it was built. The more I dig into this trailer, and see how things fit together, the more I realize, anything less than a full shell-off restoration just wouldn’t do a project like this justice, especially as the floor is the central structural element of the whole thing!

After the wheel wells were gone, next came the last parts of the front belly pan. The 2 end caps were the most important to me to remove in tact, so I could use them as patterns. After some drilling, prying, etc, they came out just fine, with the undamaged C Channel as well. I’ll probably make new channel when I put it all back together, but for now, they will serve as excellent patterns. I also added lots of cross bracing to secure the trailer from horizontal racking. Everyone tells you how flimsy the shell is once it’s detached, but I never believed how much until I saw it for myself. The good news is it leaves me a little wiggle room during the rebuilding in case a piece here or there is a little off. “Close enough for government work”, as David says ('62 Trotter, a month behind mine).

I took measurements of the interior dimensions before totally separating all the bolts, and even traced some corner templates on 1/8” plywood. It looks like the curves are a little elongated on the rear, compared to the front, but I could probably make them fit. Here are the square dimensions I measured (flat wall to flat wall) 88 1/2”W by 181”L. I hope they are accurate! That makes a 15’ shell, 18’ frame, just like I’ve read elsewhere. My plan, when the time comes is to install the plywood for a test fit square, and then cut the corners out. Does anyone know if the curves are supposed to be different front and rear? They look a little more symmetrical. Unfortunately, my floor was little more than pine chips, so I couldn’t save a pattern, though I do have the original C Channel.

Finally the lifting. It’s actually light enough to lift with 3 guys, I think. Since I was leaving it on the shell, I only lifted it enough to stack a couple of 2X4’s on the frame. One thought I had regarding lifting is lifting each end up one set of 2X4s at a time until the cross bracing 2X6 can squeeze through, then slide that in, and roll out the chassis. That might be the best approach. You could probably do that with just 2 guys, actually. I’m going to change the supports I built to make them a little more stable. I’ll post details and pics in the next post when the shell finally comes free.

My momentum and excitement in restoring the silver pickle is really picking up. I’m still in the ugly stage, but the shiny stuff is just around the corner! Those are the projects I’m looking forward to most… re-hanging the door with a port hole window, interior, skin repair, etc. with any luck, I’m still hoping to get the shell back on a month after she lifts free.




jordan
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Old 07-17-2005, 03:15 PM   #42
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she's FREE!

FINALLY, the lid is popped! (despite the weather). It has rained NON-STOP here for the past few weeks. Anyway, there’s no real rocket-science here, I built basic saw-horses to span the entire body, then jacked the body up one end at a time, using 2X4 scraps to do it incrementally, then roll the frame out. It's so simple, in fact that is it ALMOST a one man job. A little help from friends is always appreciated, though!



Now it’s time to start on the frame.
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Old 07-17-2005, 03:26 PM   #43
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Framin' Fun...

Finally, the work on the frame begins! First thing on the list was to replace 2 badly rotted cross-members near the front. A local fabrication shop made the channel for me. A plasma torch and a buddy’s welding skills, and I’m off.



Next up: the curved outriggers. It’s a snap to make them. C-clamp them to one of the outriggers on the frame, and use it as a template for the plasma torch. Then grind it relatively smooth, and you’re done.

Finally, I never did like the lack of support on the back corners, particularly where the toilet sits, so I fabbed up a few shorter outriggers, like those on the longer bodies, just to give it that little bit extra support. They are only 10 “ long, and do not have curved ends, like the longer 15” ones do. I doubt they will even touch the belly pan anyway. Whether it REALLY needs them or not is up in the air, but the cost of these parts was so ridiculously cheap, I figured, why not? I still have to grind the welds down on all the out-riggers.

I'm not totally done yet. Once the tanks come in, I can put the remaining cross-members in, and I still have some detail stuff to do on what's there, but it's probably half-way?
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Old 07-17-2005, 03:48 PM   #44
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Man this weather just plain STINKS. My garage is slap full to the ceiling. I am needing to set up on the driveway for the next few steps and every time I start to get going the rain comes and I have to pack it in. If I could get a couple panels stripped and a few more wires pulled I would be doing good and could move several cabinets out of the garage and get some room to work where I don't have to worry about rain.

Looks like you are making great headway. PLEASE strap that shell down. As quick as these storm we are having are pooping up I would really hate to see that shell get blown off those saw horses.
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Old 07-17-2005, 03:59 PM   #45
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one step ahead of ya, '59. it doesn't look like much, but all 4 corners are ratcheted down to the saw horses. the width of the saw horses makes them incredibly stable (much more so than i originally thought). i kept them low, so the center of gravity would be a lot safer. it's so low, in fact, that it takes 2 guys to lift the saw horses to roll the frame in and out. i think it's maybe only 8" above the original level. i've also attached the saw horses with longitudinal beams for more stability. a few nites before she was off the frame, but sitting on 2X4 blocks, we had the tail end of that hurricane blast through. i bet i got up 10 times that nite.

where are you with your toaster?
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Old 07-17-2005, 08:41 PM   #46
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I'm down to running my new running light wires. Couple coax lines. One or two more 12v Lines. Then the rest of the interior skins can go in once I get the rest of the god awful baby blue paint stripped off them LOL.

When the skins go in then I can transfer all the cabinets back into the coach to get my garage back and start rebuilding them one at a time.

Once the cabinets are out of the garage I have a little something to do before I do much more on the coach. I am going to remove a wall in the back of my Garage to open up the store room and give me another 4ft of floor space around the cars and full access to a work bench. Then 350-400 HP 68 400cid GTO motor need to find a home in my 1970 Pontiac LeMans Convertible. I'm having a bad case of Convertible withdrawals

Once the car is drivable it will let me pull it out of the garage to get more floor space for building the cabinets and setting up my table saw.

Too many projects LOL.
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Old 07-17-2005, 10:44 PM   #47
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You are not alone in the small shop space department.
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Old 07-18-2005, 04:50 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by 59toaster
...Then 350-400 HP 68 400cid GTO motor need to find a home in my 1970 Pontiac LeMans Convertible. I'm having a bad case of Convertible withdrawals ...
i hear ya! i've got to track down a fuel problem in "Lucile" before winter gets here! (you ever been to the monthly cruise-in up in Canton?)
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Old 07-18-2005, 05:11 AM   #49
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i hear ya! i've got to track down a fuel problem in "Lucile" before winter gets here! (you ever been to the monthly cruise-in up in Canton?)
68?

Yeah I went up to that a few weeks ago....great cruise in! Best I have been to in a long time.

What weekend does that fall on?
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Old 07-18-2005, 05:24 AM   #50
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69 RS. i can't remember what weekend it is, actually, i haven't been yet this year. we'll have to tow our toasters up there when they're done. ha!
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Old 07-18-2005, 07:47 PM   #51
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69 RS. i can't remember what weekend it is, actually, i haven't been yet this year. we'll have to tow our toasters up there when they're done. ha!

hehe I told My wife that when we went. She surprised me by actually haveing a real good time up there.

She wants a Chevelle.....BAD. She spent a bunch of time drooling over every 396SS there was and there was several. Even a Yanko was there. So she has her heart set of a Red 71 with SS stripes. I cant argue with that.
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Old 07-29-2005, 03:47 PM   #52
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Back to the pickle...

The tanks came in today. I opted to add a grey-water tank to the trailer, in addition to the stock black-water tank in the rear. I also took this opportunity to upgrade the size of the fresh water tank to 32 gallons, and plan on mounting it below the frame, just ahead of the axle. I must admit, the fresh water tank is going to hang a little lower than ! anticipated (4 inches below the frame), but i plan on raising the ride height of the trailer 2+ inches in the axle, so it’s really not too bad. I plan on having a nice stainless holding pan made at the fabrication shop to protect the tank from the road, with insulation for the winter months.

You wouldn’t think I would get excited to see a septic tank, but I was. It’s one step closer to the finished product! This weekend, I plan on working quite a bit at David’s hangar, in the hopes of getting the tank mounts figured out, and the welding done, so I can finally blast the frame clean of all the rust, and get it painted. I’m still waiting on confirmation from the axle guy before that’s ordered.
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Old 07-29-2005, 03:50 PM   #53
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Finishing the welding...

MORE welding and cutting. The old LP tank mounts are long gone, the new cross members are welded in for the fresh and grey water tanks, and the step area is significantly stronger than it was. All thats left to do at this point is to weld on some angle iron to remount the step, one additional piece for the rear to support the back floor, and then she’s all ready to blast, prime and paint. I’ve got to order the silver paint tomorrow so there are no delays.

Next step, running the rusty trailer up to David’s plant so i can sand blast it and have it painted. I’m going gloss black on the whole thing, for now, at least. i may paint the tongue and bumper silver later, but for now, black is fine. I’ve still got a LONG road ahead. Once the shell is back on the body, it looks like I’ll be replacing all 8 of the lower panels. As it turns out, the corners are under the flat pieces, and all the flat pieces need to be replaced, so it would just be a matter of cutting and drilling the new aluminum to make it all new (up to the 4 foot mark, at least). The lower half should polish up nicely. I hope the top panels can match the shine. It seems the previous owner had sanded the entire trailer with 220 for some reason, so there are quite a few scratches to buff out. We’ll see. I also plan on using .040 Aluminum for the sides (and door), rather than .032. From what i’ve read, the thicker skin is more dent resistant, and makes a much smoother finish.
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Old 07-29-2005, 04:00 PM   #54
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Back in Black!

She’s back! Things are starting to get shiny now. Much more rewarding than the tear-down process, that’s for sure. After finishing the welding, I took the rusty frame up to a friend’s plant with a sand blaster. It’s amazing how much crap comes off the frame when you blast it. I found a few weak spots in the metal, as well. I’ll have to address them during re-assembly.

I’ve also gone ahead and ordered a complete axle set-up from Axis, with new springs, galvanized axle, all hangar hardware, and electric brakes. It should be here next week, though I’ll probably not be ready for it until the following weekend, but you never know. if the weather holds this weekend, I might surprise myself. the only short term item I see that could hold me up is the wheel wells. The shop that was fabricating all the frame members for me is working on them for me, but the outer curve is proving to be a bit tricky. I’ll be using them to fabricate some stainless sheets to cover the tanks from below. My fresh water tank will end up hanging below the frame about 4 inches, as will the grey water. It’s not as smooth as the original set-up, but the size of the tanks is worth the bumps. 32 Gallons of fresh water, and 27 of grey. The black water size is still up in the air, as i am most likely going to mount it above the floor for simplicity.

I also picked up the elevator bolts today, and PLAN on installing the sub-floor and insulation this weekend. I still need to head up to Homey D and see what options i have there. I’m assuming they have something that’s moisture resistant. I had thought of using the foam panels, grooving them so they sit down in the frame a bit, and let the floor ride closer to the frame. It’s going to be tricky to get the floor in without the wheel wells, so i’m planning on not attaching the sheet that goes between the wheels until the wells are back. I can cut it, though. As for the floor dimensions, my trailer did not have a floor in it when i got her from the wheel wells back, so i did my best to trace the curve off the detached rear corners. the front appears to be less tapered. I believe this is because the rear of the trailer slopes back. I think I read somewhere on the forums that the front corners are 22” radiuses.
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Old 07-30-2005, 01:30 PM   #55
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Flooring fun...

PROGRESS!! Until the rain delay, at least. I got all the lumber, sealer and insulation material for the floor this morning, and got an early start on cutting the pieces out for the end caps. The Pickle’s interior is 88.5” wide X 181” long, so 4 pieces of ply should be plenty (got an extra, just in case). First step was laying out the C Channel to get the curves right. As it turns out, the corners are NOT the same, and in fact, aren’t even 22” radiuses (though close).

Next thing i did was paint the underside with outdoor sealer/stain (2 coats). I was told at the paint shop that this stuff is better than urethane, and will last considerably longer since it’s not exposed to UV light. Then, i measured the insulation, with a 3 inch overhang on all sides, cut it, wrapped it around the painted side of the floor panels, and tucked it under the C Channel before bolting that back down with new elevator bolts. I am optimistic that by using this rolled aluminum insulation material, wrapped around the edges, it will help block a MAJOR point of water intrusion into these trailers, the area at the belly pan, body panel seam. Nothing’s 100%, I know, but it certainly is better than what was there!

Now for the bad news, delays... The fabrication shop still hasn’t touched my wheel wells yet, so I can’t cut the 4th and final floor piece (as the wheel wells have tabs underneath the floor in those areas). I plan on mounting the front 2 pieces tomorrow, along with the tail section, and leave (2) 4 foot long spacer strips (out of scrap plywood) for the missing section between the wheels.

Also, one of the rear C Channels was pretty badly corroded. Don’t be fooled into thinking aluminum is impervious to rot. The dis-similar metal thing is catastrophic, given time! Now for the hard decision, do I try to fabricate a replacement channel for the rear left, or patch this one up and move on? My biggest fear is if the new piece doesn’t exactly match the curve, the trailer will look odd, and the shell may not fit properly. Time to seek some advice. :-) (see pic 4)

Hopefully, the weather will be nicer tomorrow, and I can get the floor in. Then it’s time to order some aluminum for the belly!
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Old 07-30-2005, 04:36 PM   #56
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Great progress. Sure beats trying to fit new plywood with the shell on. If you have a metal fabrication shop just take them the piece and they will make it. Most are able to bend 120 inch lengths. Is the aluminum brittle. If it is replace it.

Looks like you wraped the floor with bubble foil. You will have to retighten the elevator bolts after givening them a few days to compress the bubbles.

Did you allow for the thickness of the foil when you cut the floor width? I see it's wrapped around the edges.
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Old 07-31-2005, 08:00 AM   #57
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the foil wrap squeazes down to practically nothing once it's tight. you can hear a few bubbles popping when you thighten the bolts. as for the aluminum channel, it's pretty badly corroded, but not too brittle, really. i was thinking about cleaning it really good and trying to seal the area where it touches the steel plate at the rear. that's what causes most of the corrosion. i may see if i can get it fabricated, though. it would be a shame to go to this length to restore the trailer and leave such a bad piece at teh center of it all.

now if the SUN would only come back, i can get some stuff DONE around here!
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Old 07-31-2005, 08:38 AM   #58
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Wrapping that insulation like that scares me. When I put the floor down I planed on it leaking. I sealed with an epoxy resin both sides and then put a sheet vinyl floor down before the C-Channel.

My though was this:

Eventually its going to leak and its a given that it WILL happen. Hell it leaks already. So I wanted to prevent water from getting to the floor from above at all and the sheet flooring should do the trick. When it leaks it will have to go to the edge of the trailer and leave over the edge. The flooring should also form a gasket where cabinetry is bolted to the floor to further aid in keeping moisture from the top.



They way you have that wrapped if water does get in it will have to run between that insulation and the wood floor to go down hill. The insulation looks mighty water proof and retaining. I would think it would keep the water trapped against the wood instead of allowing it to drain down.

I decided I didn't want any insulation between the deck and frame at all. Some of the worst rot in the frame I had was from water wicked into the fiberglass between floor and frame. Don felt the same way as I did. Right now I have no floor insulation at all but I really don't plan to do any winter camping. If that changes I can add it back and install it the way Don did. He put some stingers out of aluminum bar stock to hold up the insulation without it being between the deck and frame.

Actually I am digging this break for the sun and heat even though the rain came. I need to run just a couple more wires in the ceiling today and I can pretty well button it up except for when I put in the new TV antenna when I get that. So One drain line, one running light wire and one 12v Circuit and an and done pulling wire! Yee HAAAAAA
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Old 07-31-2005, 07:38 PM   #59
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Wrapping that insulation like that scares me. When I put the floor down I planed on it leaking. I sealed with an epoxy resin both sides and then put a sheet vinyl floor down before the C-Channel...
I had thought about the water-proofed insulation working against me. i hope that's not the care, but it may be a good idea to cut some breathing holes in the insulation... but then, the water would get in... catch 22! the floor has 2 coats of olympic on it on the underside and edges. HOPEFULLY the wheel wells will come back early in the week so i can finish installing the floor, and start on the belly. i'm planning on sealing the crap out of the edges of the belly pan, where it wraps up to the C-channel. there will be plenty of weap holes in the belly pan, so i'm not too worried about moisture retention in that area.

i tell ya, the area i'm MOST worried about, and plan on aggressively addressing is the area of the belly pan between the front frame rails. my frame is really thick "C" beams, and the original belly pan went straignt up on the inside, leaving an open area in the frame rails, direct to the belly pan. as you might imagine, the floor was totaly rotted 12-18 inches back from the nose. that was the worst of the rot, in fact. i'm not certain of the best way to address this yet. learn as ya go!
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Old 08-01-2005, 04:57 AM   #60
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Ours was rotten in the same place and it is a box frame and sealed there by a cross member. I think between water tank leaks, window leaks, water riding the top of the frame rail that is a tough spot all around.
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