STEP-BY-STEP Shell-Off Floor Replacement

[Cursh]

man JP (now I'm crossing my fingers as to not getting preggers or picking up more projects than my Safari)

p.s. - get back to work, I've run out of pictures to look at and I want to see what happens next in this epic tale

[FC7039]

On the air conditioner thread. My plan is to use a split mini. This is a separate outside unit and inside blower. I plan on installing quick connects. The unit says to not disconnect and connect more than 7 times. I think this is due to possible loss of coolant. I may need to recharge the AC now and again. This may not work in the long run. My thoughts are that I too do not want a big AC on top. Also, I can always leave the AC home (at least half of it) when I do not need AC. The unit is also a heat pump, so I can use it as the heater too. Anybody's input on the intelligence of these thoughts would be appreciated.

On the wood interior thread. I plan on putting a 3/32 cork underlay and then applying a veneer to my walls. I too like the rich wood look. I plan on using strips on the lower walls to give a wainscot, bead board look. I plan on using a dark marker to stain the seam between strips. This should give the appearance of a bead and separate each strip. I plan on using a strip per panel on the front end cap. My Flying Cloud has 11 panels so I should be able to get veneer strips wide enough. I would polish the middle panel between the lower and ceiling to a mirror finish. This will help make the space larger. I am not sure what to do with the ceiling. The back end cap, which will be above a bed will be polished. Mirrors on the ceiling, woo hoo. Again, anybody's input on the intelligence of these thoughts would be appreciated.
Let me add I appreciate this thread and JC's and Uwe's and many more.

[yukionna]

Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can

especially these LONG term projects. I foolishly thought I'd have my 18 footer done in 6 months, then we got pregnant with baby #1, and I bought a trade wind to camp in while I was restoring the 18 footer....

THEN, a friend made me an offer on another 19 footer (globe trotter) that I couldn't refuse, AND WE GOT PREGNANT WITH BABY #2... oh, and I bought a FeatherCraft boat.... ha!

I'm still planning (hopefully not FUTILELY) to have the 18 footer at least camp-able by April... I have a lot on at the moment! the bottom line... NO MORE PROJECTS for me until I wrap up at least one trailer and a boat. haha!

Now I'm definitely inspired to fit the water tank and finish the bed installation this weekend on the little trailer... but WILL i have time?

JP

Sounds like the story of my life too (except the pregnant part).

[utee94]

Well, now that I've read your Feathercraft thread, it's easy to see why you haven't had time to work on the AS. (Nice work on the boat, btw, looks fantastic).

I've recently begun looking for a vintage AS of my own, but it seems that there aren't any on the market because American has bought them all up! Still, perhaps he'll allow some of us trailer-less folk to have one some day soon?

Anyway, I've been reading through all of the Full Monte threads, and I've really enjoyed it. It makes me all the more eager to get my hands on one of these to tinker with on my own. Your work on this trailer is first-rate, and you also have some great and innovative ideas.

I do have a question on the birch paneling, and please forgive me if you've already answered it-- I read through the 38 pages as closely as I could, but I'm bound to have missed some details along the way. My question is, what thickness of birch did you use, and where did you source it? Also, did you do anything special to get it to follow the curves, or is it thin enough to do so on its own?

Good luck on the remaining part of your restoration, I look forard to seeing it completed.

[A-Merry-Can]

I used 1/16" baltic Birch. It comes in 5X5 panels from any good hardwood store. It bends great, BUT it only bends one direction, so if you look really close at the pics, the corners have the grain running up and down, while the top has the grain running front to back. Hope that helps!

JP

[utee94]

Thanks, much appreciated. I also just completed Carlos' thread in the midst of my "Monte Marathon" and it's interesting to see how the two of you have done some things similar, and others quite different. The attention to detail that both of you pay is outstanding..

I'm about to rebuild the deck of my boat over the next couple of weekends since lake season is upon us, but after that I really would love to find a vintage AS and restore it myself. I've gotten a lot of inspiration from many of you on this forum.

[arjo]

Originally Posted by fireflyinva

Jordan,

I wonder if you might reconsider taking the shell and the belly pan off--It seems that you only want to weld, and that can be done with the shell & belly pan on.

I have to admit, I'm a bit leery about pulling off the shell--it just seems to open up a whole new range of complication and possibilities for damage. Plus, I've noticed around here that there is a much higher likelihood that folks quit on a project with a shell-off instead of keeping it on. So, when we had to start structural repairs last spring, we decided to go the shell-on route (and we are doing many of the repairs you mention).

We've done quite a bit of welding of trailer frame members from the inside with no problem. You also don't have to take the shell off, even for the outriggers. Same for new tanks. Really, the only reason I can think of where you absolutely have to remove the shell is to remove and replace the trailer frame.

Regarding the belly pan, in our era of trailer, the attachments held both the bellypan, shell and floor on together in a rather complex clamshell arrangment. You can't attach any of these independent of the other two elements. I'm not sure about your planned sequence--it appears a bit out of whack for replacement (I'll have to work this through a bit more).

For belly pan issues, the preferred technique (again, for this era trailers only) seems to be to cut it out below the line of sight. But why cut it out, unless you plan to have something (like a tank) hang at lower clearance? And then, even if you do add in a tank, all you really should need to cut out is the affected location, not the whole thing.

BTW--you may want to consider cutting out the floor in sections, so you can still have a bit of a platform for working on the innards, then you can cut it off, section by section to replace the flooring.

I hope you don't mind my devil's advocate questions. There are folks here who have done lovely jobs with full shell-off efforts. But I think they would all admit that the job was huge--and all I wonder is, why bring on that extra effort if you don't need to (since the effort really doesn't seems to offer any meaningful advantage)?

Mary

Hi Mary,
my name is Adrian & I'm in the UK restoring a 1962 Overlander. I've got to remove the floor (rotten as a pear) - any tips would be most gratefully recieved.
thanks
Adrian

[doglickfarms]

I am new to the website, so I don't know if this is the right place for this question -- I have a 1972 Overlander and can anyone tell me where I can purchase a new axle and new wheel-well covers ? Thanks

Bob

[fotochop]

welcome, doglick, axles available from any Dexter axle dealer (Dexter) or Inland RV (Henschen)..many threads on this, use the 'search' function...

-better to post new topic in a new "thread", in that section of forums...

- unrelated question is called "hijacking" a thread, but we'll let ya slide this time ;-) you'll find the answer to most any airstream question here! good luck!

[malconium]

Originally Posted by arjo

Hi Mary,
my name is Adrian & I'm in the UK restoring a 1962 Overlander. I've got to remove the floor (rotten as a pear) - any tips would be most gratefully recieved.
thanks
Adrian

Hi Adrian and welcome to the forums. I suggest that you go to the Search function at the top of the forum and search for "floor replace". Also a good place to start is the following thread. If you look at my post number 10 I give some other links to places where I give details about tools and techniques that worked for me.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...-done-428.html

Feel free to ask specific questions. You can send me a personal message if you like.

Malcolm

[doglickfarms]

I need some HELP !! I have completely gutted my 72' overlander, down to the shell and the frame. The shell is still attached to the frame. As I was painting the frame, I noticed on the driver's side that the c-channel, which was sitting on top of the frame, has now slipped off. Any ideas how to get it back on? Has anyone ever had this happen? Or, am I going to need to take the shell off?

Bob

[Jim & Susan]

How much is off the frame? Can you jack it up and gently push it back over? Is the floor still in? Maybe a few more details would help.

Jim

[Zeppelinium]

Originally Posted by doglickfarms

I...completely gutted my 72' overlander, down to the shell and the frame. The shell is still attached to the frame. As I was painting the frame, I noticed on the driver's side that the c-channel, which was sitting on top of the frame, has now slipped off. Any ideas how to get it back on? ...

Do you mean the C-channel has slipped off the outriggers? IF so, I assume on one side? You had taken the floor out? If this is right, I'm thinking the shell has bowed a little--can you lift up the edge and push it back on? Most members install an internal brace to prevent this bowing.

If you're interior skin is off, I'd drop some bolts through the C-channel and the outrigger bolt holes along one side. Then you could cut a 2x4 (what's the width dimension at the floor, about 86"?) and secure it to the C-channel on that side, then have a buddy help you lift and push the fallen side up and back on the outriggers. Then drop bolts on that side. The bolts are just "pins" so don't need nuts, unless you're outside and the wind is what did this in the first place.

Zep

[doglickfarms]

Thanks Zep. I will try that. While rebuilding this camper, I have learned that the old saying, " patience is a virtue " is very much a true saying!

Bob

[doglickfarms]

Zep,

I am not understanding the part about the 2x4 ( about the width of the floor and securing it to what side?

Bob

[Zeppelinium]

Originally Posted by doglickfarms

..I am not understanding the part about the 2x4 ( about the width of the floor and securing it to what side?...

It's a "spreader" so that when you pick up the slipped side and put it back up on the outriggers, you don't push it in too far. The 2x4 is just a brace to maintain the proper width across the floor. You might use two or three, even.

Securing it to one side (the side that's still up on the frame) is just so that it doesn't fall down in the midst of all your lifting and pushing.

If your shell was able to fall off the frame, seems it must be disconnected. You could get 3 10' 2x4s and slide them under the C-channel, crosswise and let the 2x4s rest on the frame and the shell rest on the 2x4s. This way you could nail blocks to the 2x4s to maintain the shell width.

Zep

[malconium]

Bob,

I had some problems with this too. There are a couple of things that I can recommend as follows:

1. Use a ratcheting type of luggage strap to pull the body inward. You can hook to the body on the other side or even to some place on the frame. It does not need a lot of force either.
2. One easy way to lift the body edge up is to attach a strip of plywood or 1 x 4 length-wise along the bottom of the body on the side that needs to be lifted perhaps 6" or so above the floor. You can use sheet metal screws to hold it to the body ribs. I am assuming the inner skin is off by the way. You can then use a piece of 2x4 and a block of wood as a lever to lift up on the strip of wood. The point is that you want to avoid lifting the body edge from the bottom of the c-channel becaus it is kind of easy to bend so that it is harder to get the floor back in place.

I used a framework of 2x4 crosswise to both hold the body together side to side as well as to keep the body up. I am attaching a photo that shows the gereral idea. The cross pieces are at a good height to allow a small hyrdralic jack to be set under any part I want to lift up. The short vertical pieces are 2x4 attached with 1/4" plywood so that they are removable if they are in the way when I am working in a particular area.

Let me know if the above is not clear enough and I can explain further.

Malcolm

[doglickfarms]

Thanks for the advice. I have gotten it back up on the outrigger and I am now ready to start putting it back to together again, I hope!!

Bob

[utee94]

Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can

now, speaking of strippers (CHEMICAL, boys!), i tried 3 or 4 different ones, and the best by FAR was Ace Hardware's "Heavy Duty" brand. it cut through all 10 layers in one pass. put it on, let it sit for 15 minutes and drink a beer.. put on another coat, and drink another beer, then blast away. DON'T buy Bix. that's what i started with. it took em off one layer at a time. i like beer and all... but i had 14 panels to do!

i'm REALLY looking forward to getting the interior started on this tin can!

jp

Reading back through your thread JP, and I didn't see if you ever mentioned it, but I'm assuming one of those 10 layers that you stripped was the original zolatone? How did it strip compared to the others? I've seen the finished product and the endcaps obviously look great, but just wondering if the original zolatone was still intact under all those layers, and how tough it was to strip that in addition to all of the other layers?

(Yes, I realize this particular post is two years old, hopefully you'll remember. )

Thanks!
-Marcus

[A-Merry-Can]

I used chemical stripper to get most of the paint and gunk off, then ended up sanding it. It was time consuming, if I remember correctly!

I know this post is old, and I haven't had any time to work on the little guy... BUT we are definitely planning on taking this trailer with us to the falluminum rally! Hopefully I'll have a little more time in the next months to work on it. I just got the fridge for it last week. Now it's time to start planning the fridge cabinet. Maybe over the holiday weekend...

JP