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Old 08-11-2006, 10:33 AM   #253
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1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
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Door Eyebrow in!

it took a little forming as it went on, but i got the eyebrow over the door installed. one eyebrow away from the shell being totally weather proof. i need to address the rear window next.
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Old 08-11-2006, 11:02 AM   #254
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insulation started as well!

i had some time this morning, so i went ahead and did one rib space worth of insulation. there's no new insight here, just installation of the tried and true foil insualtion technique, offset from the wall with 3/4" foam strips. the only change i made, if it's even change-worthy is i made wider strips of the foam for the top curve. on my tradewind those curves are very prone to dents if you lean wrong while buffing, so the wider strips, sandwiching the foil should give me a lot more support in those areas when it's "Bling" time!

before the interior walls go on, i'll put backing strips on the inside as well. i think the walls will have a lot more structure to them this way than they ever did from the factory.

more coming this weekend!

jp
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Old 08-11-2006, 03:19 PM   #255
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I like your eyebrow . . . looks a lot more substantial.
Did you happen to make a template or measured drawing?
Appreciate you posting your project.
MarkR
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Old 08-11-2006, 04:36 PM   #256
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i made 2 pieces, actually. one was out of left over 2024 i had from the skin, and another was a much softer grade of Al. i can't remember off the top of my head which one, but i got it off the McMaster.com site. 2024 is a hard metal to work with, and mine ended up splitting. DEFINITELY use a softer grade for these parts.

as for the template, and making it, it's really not too terribly hard. i just layed a flat piece of Al on the inside edge of the eyebrow, and added 1/2" on each side for the tab and fold over. it makes a funny looking shape at the ends, where it actually starts curving back out. that was tricky when running it through the metal bead maker.

anyway, after cutting it with nibblers, i used a brake to make the front edge, then rolled the metal a bit to get it curving, then ran the edge next to the trailer through a tool that makes a small bead on it. it gave me an edge to fold the metal to with my hand grips. that was the toughest part, making it fit snug against the trailer. in some places, it's a little further off than the stock was, but it's sealed with vulkem, and should never leak! i still have to clean up the edges a bit of vulkem residue. when rivetting it back on, i used about twice as many rivets as it originally had... starting at the center and workign each edge down one rivet at a time for symetry.

it's a nice feeling to know i can FINALLY start on the interior now! (at least in the center section, anyway).

jp
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Old 08-11-2006, 11:20 PM   #257
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A Merry Can, Nice work with the metal. Thanks for including all the pictures. For me it really helps in the understanding of what you are doing. I agree the eye brow looks great.
Don
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Old 08-12-2006, 05:31 AM   #258
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thanks don, the eyebrow was a little trickier to get to fit than i anticipated, but definitely worth the effort. my original was really dented up. i was tempted to just make a simpler one out of chanel, like the newer airstreams... but this big piece is part of what makes them look vintage, in my opinion. i'm planning on tackling the tail lights this weekend. that should really finish up the rear.

jp
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Old 08-12-2006, 07:02 AM   #259
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Still looking great...in fact, looking better every time, A-Merry-Can!
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Old 08-12-2006, 07:43 AM   #260
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i'm on the slow boat, that's for sure! ha! of course, i've never been on a schedule with this trailer. thanks, though!

jp
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Old 08-15-2006, 08:50 AM   #261
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the insulation is now about 50% +/- done, basically most of the center section. i haven't started on th end caps yet. before i do that, i'm going to roll it out in the yard and run a garden hose over her to make SURE there's no leaks, though i don't know how there COULD be with all the new skins and tons of vulkem i've used! ha! i should have the center section wrapped up this week... then get to the end caps and wiring this weekend.

speaking of the end caps, last night, i finished stripping the interior end caps. mine are 7 panel aluminum. my plan is to laminate all the panels on the interior with maple veneer, and seal them with poly prior to installation. bonding veneer to metal seems to be tricky, so i thought it best to strip off the 47 years of paint and start fresh... speaking of paint, you wouldn't BELIEVE how many layers of paint i stripped through! first i had to blast off the plaster stipple ceiling finish with the pressure washer, to even GET to the REAL mess... that was followed by a layer of creme, a layer of mustard yellow, then a grey, a baby blue, 2 shades of green, WALLPAPER, another yellow, then finally the original finish, which looked quite good once i got to it! ha! that's right, 10 LAYERS!

now, speaking of strippers (CHEMICAL, boys!), i tried 3 or 4 different ones, and the best by FAR was Ace Hardware's "Heavy Duty" brand. it cut through all 10 layers in one pass. put it on, let it sit for 15 minutes and drink a beer.. put on another coat, and drink another beer, then blast away. DON'T buy Bix. that's what i started with. it took em off one layer at a time. i like beer and all... but i had 14 panels to do!

i'm REALLY looking forward to getting the interior started on this tin can!

jp
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Old 08-16-2006, 08:51 AM   #262
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Ten layers, You must have reduced the weight of your trailer by a hundred pounds or more. I'll be my Flying Cloud will be like your trailer.
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Old 08-16-2006, 10:03 AM   #263
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i probably reduced the insulation value, too! haha!

seriously, though... WALLPAPER??? white with pink flowers, it was. i bet when they got her all dun up, the POs were quite proud...hanging wallpaper on a compound curve...



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Old 08-16-2006, 12:46 PM   #264
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JP, what is the "R" Value of the insulation that you've put into your trailer? Also, how are you affixing the foam strips the metal?
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Old 08-16-2006, 02:25 PM   #265
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i'm following a kinda tried and true method used by uwe, don, malcom and a few others. i took 3/4" foam sheets, cut it with a carpet knife into about 3-4 inch wide strips, attached it to the skin with carpet tape, leaving dead air space between the strips. then i attached the foil to it, again with carpet tape. before the wall skins go back on, i'll put 1/2" foam strips on the interior side, to keep the foil suspended in the middle (optimal efficiency).

i don't know if it's really necessary to duct-tape all the edges to keep air transfer from happening from the outter side of the foil to the inner, but i went ahead and taped any joints that happened mid-panel, just to be safe.

it's not the cheapest way to insulate a trailer, but it certainly won't collect any odors! i don't know what specific R value this method yields, but everyone who's done it had no real complaints.

plus, it looks cool!

jp
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Old 08-16-2006, 02:41 PM   #266
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It certainly does look cool! I'm thinking about doing something similar, but putting fiberglass insulation in the dead air spaces. I want to make sure that my trailer is VERY well insulated because of how hot it gets here.
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