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Old 05-11-2008, 07:40 PM   #85
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
McDonough , Georgia
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Humm.....

The large guage Blue wire (I think #10 guage) is actually the 12v positive wire and the White wire is the negative. IF we are talking about the blue and white wires that coming out of the hole in the wall and then connecting to the front of your rectifier. Just an FYI, the white wire in mine is always the ground.

I'm going to go out to the camper and take a few pictures and post them. It just so happens that I'm putting the walls back in at the moment and at the Univolt wiring bundle as we speak (so to speak).

Jim
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:47 PM   #86
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In this first pic, this is how the wiring bundle looks coming out of the wall below your bathtub. My walls are not all in and the bathtub isn't either, so it doesn't look like yours at the moment. Note the heavy guage Blue and White wires.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:50 PM   #87
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The Blue and White wires then run over to your Univolt (or whatever you've replaced it with). Blue is normally the 12v positive, White is normally the 12v negative.
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:21 AM   #88
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
Loganville , Georgia
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Jim:

The wiring I am refering to is the wiring in the new parrallax 3020 converter. I took a picture of the wiring of the old univolt before I pulled the converter out. I use that as my refrence when I will put it back together. I need to know the wiring to the new converter. I will call parrallax today.

I am stripping off the old weather stripping on the screen door and it does not want to come off. The old gasket came off without any problems. What did you use to get the old weather stripping off?

Work has slowed down on the trailer until I get out of school. I teach and this time of the year is really crazy. My energy level has not been there because the kids know the end is close and they have been bouncing off the walls. I teach seniors.

Brian
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Old 05-18-2008, 06:11 PM   #89
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
Loganville , Georgia
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Projects picking up

Today I was able to fix the converter and it works. I put new weather stripping and gaskets on all the doors. My wife cleaned the screen door and we put in a new mosquito slide on the screen door. I have all my electricity complete. Things are coming together nicely. I am about ready to order new axels and new tires. Once that is complete I will have the RV center put in the new pex pipe and hot water heater. I think I will be able to use it this summer.

Brian
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:14 AM   #90
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Profile:  1973 31' Sovereign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
Today I was able to fix the converter and it works. I put new weather stripping and gaskets on all the doors. My wife cleaned the screen door and we put in a new mosquito slide on the screen door. I have all my electricity complete. Things are coming together nicely. I am about ready to order new axels and new tires. Once that is complete I will have the RV center put in the new pex pipe and hot water heater. I think I will be able to use it this summer.

Brian
Congratulations! It is very nice to reach milestones and be able to move on to the next step.

Malcolm
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Old 05-26-2008, 01:41 PM   #91
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
Loganville , Georgia
Posts: 243

New accomplishments

I decided to resand and give already painted bathroom parts another coat. I was glad I did. It came out looking great. We used Lowes Porcelain white epoxy paint. I did all the sanding and steel wool and my wife did the painting.

I finished the plumbing for my black tank and all bathroom drain pipes. I started to put the trunk back together and it looks pretty easy. I have a Question about the bottom part of the trunk. This is the floor with the drain hole with a gasket. Do I use self setting screws and screw it down to the frame which holds the black tank? I know I will rivet it to the belly pan when I put that back together, but I am not sure about the 1/8" angle iron frame. There are holes that line up with the angle iron and holes farther out which will connect to the belly pan. What do you think I should do?

SIU Bound

Brian
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Old 05-31-2008, 03:42 PM   #92
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
Loganville , Georgia
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Plumbing pics

Check out this thread I posted on the plumbing page

Plumbing success and questions

SIU Bound

Brian
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:16 PM   #93
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1977 23' Safari
1975 31' Sovereign
Palmer Lake , Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
...I have a Question about the bottom part of the trunk. This is the floor with the drain hole with a gasket. Do I use self setting screws and screw it down to the frame which holds the black tank? I know I will rivet it to the belly pan when I put that back together, but I am not sure about the 1/8" angle iron frame. There are holes that line up with the angle iron and holes farther out which will connect to the belly pan. What do you think I should do?
...
Brian, half my Airstreams are riveted and half have substantial (like 1/4) screws. I think if the belly pan below the tank is continuous from other areas, use rivets. Airstream seemed to have favored screws in the angle iron--you ought to be able to tell from the hole size. If the holes are bigger than 3/16, which is the largest rivet size I have found on my models, then I would bet on screws.

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Old 06-01-2008, 05:46 AM   #94
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Zep:

I went with small sheet metal screws. What a nice feeling putting the whole back end back together. I am getting closer. What did you use on the top trunk hood? I think I am going with sheet metal screws.

SIU Bound
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Old 06-01-2008, 10:30 AM   #95
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1977 23' Safari
1975 31' Sovereign
Palmer Lake , Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
...What did you use on the top trunk hood? I think I am going with sheet metal screws.
...
I used rivets. The one thing to watch out for is making sure the joint between the shell, as it comes down, and the horizontal sheet that the locker lid attaches to, is well sealed. If not, water runs forward on the horizontal sheet, soaking the underside of the flooring and is a prime source of rot. This is the worst joint in the whole design (speaking of 70's models here) regarding water seepage.

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Old 06-02-2008, 04:24 AM   #96
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
Loganville , Georgia
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Zep:

Should not be a problem because I have Nyloboard for a floor. The metal channel the floor sits in back has two coats of por 15. I still plan on giving every thing a good seal with Vulkem.

Brian
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:24 PM   #97
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She is Back together for towing

I have the new tires on, the belly pan up and covering the black tank. Everything is insulated, bananna rap is on, with break lights and turn signals working. I am not finished because I still have to finish the plumbing. I am not knowledgeable enough to finish the plumbing. I am going to tow it to an RV maintenance shop and have them hook up the plumbing. I also want them to set up the pipes so they can become winterized. Once I get it back then I will put the bathroom together and put in the laminate floor. I will be ready to use it with the knowledge some things still have to be done. I will need new fantastic fans, and I am not sure if the appliances will work. We can always use coolers. I know I need axels and they is something I am going to have to get done.

My wife has put in many of the new curtains. They rock.

SIU Bound'

Brian
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:52 PM   #98
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Profile:  1970 27' Overlander
Crosby , Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
My wife has put in many of the new curtains. They rock.

Brian
Always good to get the ladies involved.
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