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Ok airstreamers here is what I did today. I installed the nyloboard and bolts. I used the 1/4" and 3/8" bolts. I also installed the other bolts to the added frame so I could screw the nyloboard to the cut end of the floor. I also tried to take a picture of one of the extra bracket I installed on the outside of the frame. It came out fuzzy. Just added reinforcement to the floor so it does not rock and roll. Only my wife and I are allowed to rock and roll as we are camping. Check out the pics. I also added a butt plate.
The nyloboard is made of recycled carpet which is melted and made into nylon board. It does not rust. works like plywood.
The only SIU I know of is Southern Illinois University, the mighty Salukis!
The floor looks great, thanks for posting the pics! So, the $100,000 question-- how firm does it feel compared to the plywood floor right next to it? Any additional flex?
Anyway, best of luck on the rest of your restoration.
Your new subfloor looks great. I have a question since I will be reinstalling mine probably next week. My black tank fits almost flush with the bottom of my 3/4" plywood. Is that splice board going to interfere with that?
My black tank with the galv. box measures 7-1/2" thick and my frame is only 8" top to bottom. With the angle iron that suspends the box it only leaves 3/8" gap at most between the tank and floor.
SIU stands for Southern Illinois University. I got my B.S. Degree from the school of Agriculture. Great memories and I love the area. I set a goal after college back in the 70's I would retire in the area. I bought land in southern Illnois and that was the motivating factor for buying the airstream. We are going up soon to have electricity run to the land. That way I won't have to worry about generators or batteries.
I installed the new box and frame for the black tank when I put in the nyloboard. The nyloboard did not move very much because of all the support the box gave it. Perfect fit. I dropped the frame and box and measured so the butt plate would not be in the way. The box should not come in contact with the butt plate. If I have to trim some wood off the butt plate then I will do it. After the liquid nails drys and cures I will drill holes through the nyloboard and the butt plate place bolts and lock nuts for added strength. You can see I counter sunk the washers and nuts. I will put some sort of apoxy over all the cracks when I am sure that the floor is finished. I want something that is going to be hard and not give. Any ideas?? Once that is finished I will do the electricty, put my frame and metal box back in, and move to the fans. The nyloboard seems OK but time will tell.
for sealing up the cracks I used Interlux Watertite Epoxy Filler from WEst Marine for the structural cracks then feathered it out with Bondo (much cheaper but you gotta work FAST!) vhord, yes, that's a 'year' issue, my '69 was the same way with the tank box less than an inch from the plywood subfloor. I tossed my stock styrofoam insulator and custom made a slightly thinner one from pink foam board, which dropped the tank a bit, then I used 1/4" plywood for a seam splice above the tank (but the Intertite Epoxy is what's really holding it, fantastic stuff) and 3/4 everywhere else. my thread '69 Safari bath repair has fotos...
I got my new black tank and my box and did a dry run to see how everything fit. The first thing I found out was I had to take the butt plate off. When I put the styrofoam bedding in and placed the black tank on top I ran out of room. Then I but the box with the tank on the frame that holds it and installed it. I was about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off on my holes. I used a pencil drew where I need to to increase the size and cut.
The other challenge I have to meet is the new Valterra dump valve. With the connections I had to buy ends up sticking out farther. I think I can make it fit. Not much accomplished just trying to see how things fit. I did get the solar film on my vista window. I will post in the other forum thread to find out what to use to keep the window pressed against the butyl gasket.
I just have finished with my black tank. It is complete. I also have taken the second vista window out and tinted it. It goes in this weekend. My wife sanded primed the front end of the interior. We went to Sherwin Williams to make sure we got the correct procedure, primer and paint. I have also started with the plumbing. The pipes were sitting out side since fall. When I picked it up and started fooling with it in the trailer hords of fire ants came pouring out of the pipe ( I am very allergic). I will put that together this weekend.
Last week we went to the Overlanders future destination and worked on our property. I cannot wait to pull it to the new land. I set up with the coop to get electic for the property. The company came out and marked where the lines will go.
Check out the pics of the trailer updates and the property.
Overlander still waiting for the electrician. I might have scared him off. He was very strong with his suggestion of wiring a seperate box for a 50 amp box. He was talking about two boxes. one 50 amp and one 30 amp. I went to the camper store and spoke with a technician who highly recommended having the electrician speak with them. I was told by the camper store you don't wire the RV like a house. He was supposed to speak with the RV place and that was over a week ago. I am still waiting to hear back from the electrican. This glitch has not slowed me down because I am still doing other projects.
Check out the pics. I had access to a real good camera so I took advantage of it and took some pics. I have both my vista windows in now. converter box is wired except the hard wire. drain pipes are in except for a few odds and ends. I put staples on the top part of the floor with the butt plate underneath. I have the new shades in and my wife is pretty much done with the curtains.Getting closer and Closer.
Overlander still waiting for the electrician. I might have scared him off. He was very strong with his suggestion of wiring a seperate box for a 50 amp box. He was talking about two boxes. one 50 amp and one 30 amp. I went to the camper store and spoke with a technician who highly recommended having the electrician speak with them. I was told by the camper store you don't wire the RV like a house. He was supposed to speak with the RV place and that was over a week ago. I am still waiting to hear back from the electrican. This glitch has not slowed me down because I am still doing other projects.
Check out the pics. I had access to a real good camera so I took advantage of it and took some pics. I have both my vista windows in now. converter box is wired except the hard wire. drain pipes are in except for a few odds and ends. I put staples on the top part of the floor with the butt plate underneath. I have the new shades in and my wife is pretty much done with the curtains.Getting closer and Closer.
SIU Bound
Brian
Brian,
Do you have a copy of the 120 volt wiring diagram for you unit? If not I would be happy to scan the one I have and email it to you. The wiring for the 120 power is very simple. There is a main box with a 30 amp main breaker and two 20 amp branch circuit breakers. One of the 20 amp circuits goes only to the AC unit and the other one goes to everything else including the charger.
The service manual that I have has diagrams for all the 1973 models. The 120 circuit is essentially the same for all of them. The differences are primarily in where each part is located.
What do you have there now? Do you need an entirely new 120 volt box and circuit breakers or is there an existing panel? I found a very simple box at Home Depot that was about 4" x 6" or so that enough space for the 30 amp main and at least the two 20 amp branch breakers. If you like I can try to take a photo of the unit that I am talking about so you can see what I mean.
Thanks for the info. Yes I could use a diagram for a 1973 airstream. I would be very appreciative to have that file. I have a couple of diagrams for airstreams, but I do not know if I have the correct one. I might have already been sent one. but I another file would not hurt. To be honest I would let an electrician use them because I am not schooled in the electical field. I still have the box in my trailer but I took the wires out. I just want somebody who knows electricity to help me wire it back correctly. I don't want the trailer to blow up.
What is your opinion about a 50 amp box upgrade? I would not mind having more options with electricity, and I was told by the electrician you could put a 50 amp box in the trailer and break up the amprage. All greek to me.
Thanks for the info. Yes I could use a diagram for a 1973 airstream. I would be very appreciative to have that file. I have a couple of diagrams for airstreams, but I do not know if I have the correct one. I might have already been sent one. but I another file would not hurt. To be honest I would let an electrician use them because I am not schooled in the electical field. I still have the box in my trailer but I took the wires out. I just want somebody who knows electricity to help me wire it back correctly. I don't want the trailer to blow up.
What is your opinion about a 50 amp box upgrade? I would not mind having more options with electricity, and I was told by the electrician you could put a 50 amp box in the trailer and break up the amprage. All greek to me.
SIU Bound
Brian
Brian,
I have attaced a scan of the wire diagram from my manual. Please let me know if you have trouble reading it. It is a pdf document so I think you might be able to save and print it out. Any electrician should be able to follow the diagram and hook you back up. You can see where the main power cable goes into the power panel and you can see two wires coming out. One goes to the AC unit and the other one goes everywhere else. As I said the main breaker is 30 amp and the two sub breakers are 20 amp each.
I have decided to leave my system at 30 amps. I don't really have anything in particular that I want to add that really needs more circuitry. I think unless you want to add high current extra things such as electric heaters that you would be OK with the 30 amps. And yes if you did add a 50 amp system you could divide it up into more branch circuits than just the two 20 amp ones.
...What is your opinion about a 50 amp box upgrade? I would not mind having more options with electricity, and I was told by the electrician you could put a 50 amp box in the trailer and break up the amprage. All greek to me...
Do you need 50? Your total load is
9 amps - Microwave
4 amps - Converter
3 amps - Lights
12 amps - Ceramic Heater (winter)
18 amps - AC (summer) 10 amps - Water Heater (do you have electric?)
44 amps max (summer with AC)
It's actually difficult in an Airstream to exceed 30 amps unless you have an electic water heater. You have to be running the AC, microwave, and water heater all at the same time, plus the converter is maxing out recharging the battery.
Think of the campgrounds that offer 30 amp hookups at lower prices...
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