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Old 02-20-2008, 05:02 PM
  #29
SIU Bound
3 Rivet Member
Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
Loganville, Georgia
Posts: 150
box and frame to hold it finished

I finshed the black tank box. I por-15 the outside and the inside of the box. I had some bed liner spray and used it on the inside. I had my friend make the frame out of 1/8 inch angle iron. Everything has been done to the orginal specifications.

Check out the pic

SIU Bound

Brian
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Old 02-20-2008, 05:19 PM
  #30
Jim & Susan
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
McDonough, Georgia
Posts: 2,999
Lookin' good. Great friends you've got there.

Jim
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Old 02-20-2008, 05:28 PM
  #31
SIU Bound
3 Rivet Member
Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
Loganville, Georgia
Posts: 150
Jim:

This man who built the 1/8 inch frame to hold the box is brilliant. He teaches welding and does a great job. He is going to come over to do some welding on the disintegrated part of the rail and put the box frame in. Once he does that I am ready to put the floor in. I bought the Nyloboard Monday and it looks great. I think it will work really well. I ordered my black tank through the airstream dealer in Jonesboro and I am waiting for it to come in. I ordereded about one month ago. I will call them tomorrow. I also want them to put a new dump valve and senors on the tank for me.

SIU Bound

Brian
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Old 02-20-2008, 06:26 PM
  #32
rmpray
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Profile:  1973 31' Sovereign
Bertram, Texas
Posts: 275
You are cruising right along! I like the bed-liner idea, and of course the floor material. You are planning on making this rig reach 73 again
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:40 PM
  #33
SIU Bound
3 Rivet Member
Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
Loganville, Georgia
Posts: 150
Floor Template

I took measurements for the new floor and made a template from foam board. I made it just a little bit bigger then what I need because I figure it is easier to shave off extra then to mess up the Nyloboard. I will definitely re-measure before I make cuts. Check out the pics

Welding is suppose to take place next week to install the new frame to hold the black tank box.

Brian
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:46 PM
  #34
balrgn
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Profile:  1974 27' Overlander
1973 27' Overlander
Rockingham County, New Hampshire
Posts: 3,726
Looking good, man, you have a ton done! Our 73 did not requre that much attention....
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:35 PM
  #35
fotochop
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Profile:  1969 23' Safari
New Orleans, Louisiana
Posts: 311
Before you permanently weld the tank frame in make sure your's didn't have four little tabs welded to the main frame that the two angle iron supports actually BOLTED to, first. The purpose of this was so that the black tank can be DROPPED out the bottom of the trailer (for service/maintenance) without much trouble. Well, a lot less trouble than cutting a welded frame out would be, ya? You'd just take out four bolts/nuts and the two angle iron tank supports would drop out after bellypan removal. just a heads up\


fotochop
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:38 PM
  #36
Jim & Susan
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
McDonough, Georgia
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Boy, does that look familiar. I did the same thing, but used luan instead of the foam. Just happened to have a bunch of that available at the time.

Now that the weather is finally warming up, you should make make some good progress. Keep us up to date.

On Edit: Mine is just as Rick describes it. A couple of the bolts are a real pain to get out of there.

Jim
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Old 03-10-2008, 04:46 PM
  #37
vhord
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Profile:  1970 27' Overlander
Crosby, Texas
Posts: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop
Before you permanently weld the tank frame in make sure your's didn't have four little tabs welded to the main frame that the two angle iron supports actually BOLTED to, first. The purpose of this was so that the black tank can be DROPPED out the bottom of the trailer (for service/maintenance) without much trouble. Well, a lot less trouble than cutting a welded frame out would be, ya? You'd just take out four bolts/nuts and the two angle iron tank supports would drop out after bellypan removal. just a heads up\


fotochop

Rick,

My A/S (1970) has the bolted in supports that you mentioned. However, if the old supports had not rusted completely away the bolts were so rusted that it would have been imposible to remove them. Do you have any ideas on how to prevent this the next time? Should I use SS bolts? I am having to build a new tank box like Brian did and want to make the whole setup right.

Vernon
Crosby, TX
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:14 PM
  #38
fotochop
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Profile:  1969 23' Safari
New Orleans, Louisiana
Posts: 311
maybe a metallurgist here can weigh in on the SS vs. galvanized bolt debate? I'm just putting galv in mine with self-locking nuts (have a plastic bushing inside the nut threads) and POR-15 on just about everything. a real trailer-ist will probably be dropping the belly pan once a decade anyway just to keep life interesting... The POR will really slow down rust to where it should not be a problem. If you compare the before/after images in my '69 Safari Bath Repair thread you'll see what I mean. It's amazing stuff. So much better than OEM paint. If your supports are shot you'll have to weld new ones anyway, just be sure you POR 'em after..
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:47 PM
  #39
vhord
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Profile:  1970 27' Overlander
Crosby, Texas
Posts: 94
Thanks Rick for the reply. HD galvanized bolts with POR-15 on the metal sounds like a good solution.
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:58 AM
  #40
SIU Bound
3 Rivet Member
Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
Loganville, Georgia
Posts: 150
I have had small brackets made for the back end of the frame for support. I guess it is what they call dog ears. They will support that small area that does not sit on the frame. I have seen several pictures in past threads which show where airstreamers have installed them. My welder told me that he needed bare metal to do the welds for those bracket supports. So I had to remove the por-15 to expose some metal for the welding to take place. Oh boy is that paint protectant tuff. It took me the use of a grinder to remove the paint. The wire brush on the grinder would not remove it. Once the brackets are installed I will put more Por-15 on.

I plan on using galvanized bolts with nylon lock nots on holding tank box frame. I am not worried about them rusting. I figure I am in my mid 50's and by the time they rust I will probably be dead and gone to the airstream campgrounds in the sky.

SIU Bound

Brian
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Old 03-21-2008, 03:40 PM
  #41
SIU Bound
3 Rivet Member
Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
Loganville, Georgia
Posts: 150
Welding of the frame, the new brackets that hold the black tank box installed, the new little frame brackets to prevent end separation are in place, Por-15 coated on metal, and the new black tank arrived yesterday. Now it is time to start to putting it back together. I will take pictures tomorrow.

I decided to take the old belly pan and patch it. After I priced aluminum I decided I needed to save money somewhere. I took old roof flashing, sealant, and rivets and patched it up. It should work fine. Nobody is going to be looking underneath anyway. Wow metals have gone up 600% in the last couple of years.

SIU Bound

Brian
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:35 PM
  #42
Jim & Susan
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
McDonough, Georgia
Posts: 2,999
Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound
.......I decided to take the old belly pan and patch it. After I priced aluminum I decided I needed to save money somewhere. I took old roof flashing, sealant, and rivets and patched it up. It should work fine. Nobody is going to be looking underneath anyway. Wow metals have gone up 600% in the last couple of years.

SIU Bound

Brian

That's exactly what I did and used the same logic as you. Nobody's gonna notice down there.

Jim
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