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Old 10-17-2010, 08:20 PM   #15
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As much fun as taken your sister to the Prom

Today I got most of the subfloor/plywood removed... I am having some problems removing the 4 bolts out of the very front of the plywood/frame. I did buy a 4" grinder this morning at Home Depot. Works great.

Anyway, once I get the last of the plywood and bolts out. How do you I insert the new section of plywood in one piece, or do I cut into two sections and insert. How do I bolt down the plywood without taking out the skin under the frame? I need more good advise!

Here is a couple of photos from todayÖ..


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Old 10-18-2010, 06:57 AM   #16
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There is not way to insert a whole piece, because of the curve and the channel it won't go in. What I did when I replaced the rear sheet and what most folks do it to split the new piece where the seam will be on top of the frame rail. Couple of things to consider.
1) Put a slight bevel on the edges that go into the channel, it will really ease the install.
To install it you can lay a 2x4 on the inside edge of the new piece and tap it in till it drops in place.
2) I coated and outside 6 inches top and bottom of the new wood with boat builders epoxy resin to seal and protect from any future damage. I also put several coats of marine spar urethane on the rest of the wood, but this was in the rear and under the bath.
3) You MUST drop the belly pan for banana wrap to replace the bolts in the channel. They hold the front of the trailer on the frame, you MUST replace them.
4) For other areas if you don't have access you can use self tapping floor bolts. VTS has them. HD has them now as well if you need them in a hurry. Elevator bolts are better but these work ok but NOT in the channel area.
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:40 PM   #17
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Removed the rest of the bolts today cleaned the area and got some cardboard and made templets so I can cut the plywood. I plan to get epoxy resin seal and seal/treat plywood before I install. The plywood is marine grade... $82 bucks a sheet, May be overkill? Plan to use deck paint for all the subfloor. Also finding many holes in skin along the subfloor line, so I need to seal inside and out with Vulken???
Hopefully I can get that stuff at the RV store across the freeway from my house.....Trex
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:29 PM   #18
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Day ja view

Oh boy...

THAT Looks Familar...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...tml#post734787
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Old 10-19-2010, 09:30 PM   #19
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New floor....In the Old Girl

Installed the new floor today... I painted plywood with trailer roof paint. Using epoxy to fill holes around the elevator bolts and two small water damaged areas in the corners of the 2nd sheet of plywood. Looks like it going to work okay. I will bolt down the front wall tomorrow.

See if I can upload photos....

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Old 10-29-2010, 12:57 PM   #20
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This may sound a little crazy… but I am thinking about using diamond plate aluminum, and screw and glue to my sub-floor under the refrigerator and the full ten feet under my sink, stove/oven, and counter space on the road side. If I cut a 4x8’ sheet in half I should have enough to cover….. The twin beds are gone and plan to built custom cabinets and diner seating in place of the beds. Has anyone out there tried this?
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Old 10-29-2010, 02:22 PM   #21
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Which method did you use to repair the leaks that caused the damage?

My trailer had 11 separate leaks from the front of the door to the front rib. The largest and worst leak was designed by the Airstream engineers. That is the step drop lever slot. It brings water into the belly pan location with no design to let the water out.

I hadn't considered diamond plate under the fixtures. What benefit could I expect from doing that?

Gary
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Old 10-29-2010, 03:49 PM   #22
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UPS just delivered my “leak fixing kit” today, from Inland RV. It’s been raining off & on for a week now in Northern California, (Shasta Lake City). So, right now I have a 30’ tarp over the “Old Girl”. Inside the Old Girl, I have repaired 5 water damaged areas in the ĺ” plywood; the front section with a sheet of plywood, two below the vista windows with epoxy, and one rotten spot in-front of the street side wheel well with plywood & epoxy.

This coming week, it may dry out for 4 or 5 days, so I will start sealing the leaky wing windows, the two vista windows, and replace all of the window gaskets. Also I think two of the sky light/fans are leaking, and maybe the awning mounts.

I may try to do a pressure test with a leaf blower, (as seen here on another thread)….seal any of the openings with plastic and blue and/or duct tape and then run soapy water over the entire trailer.

Like you, I think I may have 10 to 15 leaks in the Old girl….. trex.

P.S. This is one of the area's that I am thinking about covering with diamond plate....
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Old 10-29-2010, 05:00 PM   #23
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To answer your question about the Diamond Plate, GaryÖ. I just want to have a clean area under the cabinets, and have diamond plate on the floor where the exterior door opens behind the street side wheel well and where the refrigerator exterior door opens. Plus I want a removable door on the fresh water drain valve area (below sub-floor), and mount the new fresh water pump on the Diamond plate. This would also cover that area in front of the wheel well where I replaced a section of plywood and used alot of epoxy.

I donít plan to use any of the old cabinets, oven, stove, sink, heater and refrigerator. I am thinking about building the cabinets with doors, but are open inside with storage areas that can be removed for easy inspection of the wheel wells and for water leaks etc. Is this "Over Kill"? Should I just sand and paint with a good deck paint? trex
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Old 10-29-2010, 05:16 PM   #24
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You'll have something good when you're done. Great thread. Thanks!

Gary
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Old 10-29-2010, 05:19 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Crabtree View Post
Should I just sand and paint with a good deck paint? trex
No! Make all new. You'll never be satisfied with painted old cabinets.

Gary
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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...g?t=1278182564
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:31 PM   #26
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What I met to say was....all new cabinets. I was talking about sanding the floor and painting it with deck paint, or something. The cabinets I may or may not build. Not sure yet. There are some custom cabinet builders here in SLC, and Home Depot and Lowes are down the road 7 miles. I may build the frame and buy doors..... not sure. trex

P.S. I cleaned out an inch of mud from the under belly pan when I removed the rotten section of plywood between the Door and wheel well.
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:58 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Crabtree View Post
I was talking about sanding the floor and painting it with deck paint, or something.

Will you paint the floor as a protective measure? And then add floor covering of some kind over the painted floor?

I might be a cabinetmaker, so I plan to just make the cabinets. I need to replace the peeling vinyl-clad wall panels. I still have not finalized a cabinet design or even decided on a species of wood to use. I like to season projects.

Gary
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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
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Old 10-29-2010, 09:34 PM   #28
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I would think that diamond plate would be very slippery when wet. You could end up on your a** if you lost your footing
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