Some questions on outriggers...

[daved20319]

First, why aren't they all solid? That big hole really can't be that much of a weight savings, and at least in my AS, they're not used to run any systems through. The only thing in my trailer that runs between the floor and belly pan is the electric brake wiring, and that's on the inside of the frame rails. That big hole also has to compromise the strength, too.

In the process of shopping around, I noticed that at least one supplier (OODM) lists a solid outrigger for the wheel wells, but with a notch at the top, next to the frame. They're specific that these notched outriggers are for the older (non-widebody) trailers. So what's the purpose of the notch? Or is this a mistake on their web-site, and the notched ones really belong to the later model trailers?

Finally, (for now ), what's the proper length? Mine vary, most seem to be about 14 5/8" from the frame to the tip, although the step outriggers are 15". OODM lists them as either 14.5" or 14.75", depending on age.

Sorry for all the questions, but I have more than a few that need replacing on my frame, mostly rust damage. I'd like to be sure I get the right part for the job . Later.

Dave

[putback]

I was once told the original outriggers were cut from cross member stock, cost savings, hence the holes. Only solid ones were on A-frame, Tail, steps, and fore & aft of wheel wells. Large holes in X-members also allow waste water plumbing. The "notch", apparently, maybe, he said she said is there to allow the old style metal wheel wells to fit properly. Could be. I welded the notch on my 1st one. When I tried to place the w/well I had to go back and cut a slot in the weld! Live and learn. Step outriggers are longer & heavier, sometimes doubles. Wheel well riggers sometimes doubles. Way front and back shorter & narrower. All the rest down the middle vary as much as 1/2". I've had to trim installed ones occasionally to insure they didn't contact the belly pan where it wrapped up to the belt line. At some point you realize the guys on the line weren't overly concerned with position & fit.

[vinstream]

Throughout the years there has been changes to the outriggers in size and shape as well as how they were attached. PUTBACK is correct that there were even special outriggers for different attachment points around the trailer, further making the replacement of the outriggers challenging. The outrigger, C channel, wood, connection is the weakest point of the entire trailer and it is my opinion that the outrigger was not strong enough to meet the challenge. I would recommend replacing the old style with a rectangular steel tube 2" x 4" (5" on 5" height frames) and cut the end with a semicircle to match the radius on the old style. This gives you two attachment fins to weld to frame and the much needed support out to the C channel connection.

[daved20319]

Thanks, guys. Putback, interesting idea on the cross members used as outriggers, but I doubt it, the two items use two different steel thicknesses. I just checked the thickness on the various frame components on mine, frame rail C-channel is 12 ga., outriggers are 13 ga., and the cross members are 14 ga. At least that's what I get with my caliper. The only one I can sort of verify is the cross member, OODM has an AS CAD drawing of one on the site, and it specs 14 ga. for the cross member.

Vinstream, I really like your idea, especially since sagging outriggers were the primary reason I started this whole shell off adventure. In addition to being much stronger than the original, material cost is less than buying "official" outriggers. Don't think I'm going to do them all, but any that must be replaced will get this treatment. Later.

Dave

[putback]

Now that we're going this deep I'll fess up. I don't mess with the original lite stamped sheet metal. I make mine from angle and flat stock steel,. both X-members & out riggers. The net weight gain is very little, cost is far less & I like the finished product. Box steel do'es make an exceptional out rigger but you have to cut access holes to get to the nuts.

[tjoneillMO]

Or you could have the local sheetmetal shop bend flanges on .090 or .125 sheet and cut to fit. You will need a cutting torch and a grinder. You could double up in a box section (stitch welding the top flanges) if you wanted it super strong and you would still be able to reach the nuts.
Tim