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Old 06-12-2008, 05:14 PM   #1
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Smelly floor...help

Okay, so I ended up dropping the belly pan off my 1968 Safari due to a bunch of mouse "stuff" that caused my trailer to really stink..I took out all the insulation, washed down the belly pan and cleaned it all out.
My question is this...after about 40 years (probably only the last 10 of which the mice took over), the wood has taken on the oder of the mouse "stuff". Does anyone have a way or a product that I can spay on the wood from underneath the trailer to help remove the smell?
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Old 06-12-2008, 05:18 PM   #2
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There are a couple, one is an enzyme that eats the odor-causing bacteria. I haven't had any experience with (nor do I want it) trying to get it to eat 10 year old mouse pee.
Another option is spraying regular bleach onto the wood. If you do this, wear some kind of breathing mask, as uric acid and chlorine combine to create a toxic gas, much as bleach and ammonia do.
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Old 06-12-2008, 05:27 PM   #3
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You can buy a very good enzyme product at most pet supply stores. Just ask a manager which is the best. You will need to plan on spraying it very well and then waiting a few weeks, and then treating it again. Keep in mind that the smell will get worse - not better - during the few weeks it takes the enzymes to eat the urine et al.

Overlander63's advice about toxic fumes is best heeded. That combo can be very deadly - very quickly - especially with large amounts of chemicals in a poorly ventilated space. It can knock you out before you know what hit you! The second downside of bleach is that it can weaken the fibrous content of the wood... don't want to encourage future repairs...
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Old 06-12-2008, 05:34 PM   #4
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or you can get rid of the stuff holding the pee. Remove the old insulation and replace the floor that sure has rot....
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Old 06-12-2008, 05:38 PM   #5
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Great suggestions...keep them coming and check out my blog and you can get a view of the "mud" on my belly pan.
62overlander, I have already removed the insulation and surprisingly there is no floor rot that I can see from below.
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Old 06-12-2008, 05:42 PM   #6
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but...

My guess is that if there is mouse pee in the floor insulation, it's also in the wall insulation. Mice don't just confine themselves to the belly pan...if you have had mice, you have to assume they were everywhere. Bummer.

On a side note...my sister lives in Kalamazoo ~ and BTW, welcome to the forums...nice looking trailer!

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Old 06-12-2008, 05:45 PM   #7
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I am currently in a state of denial about having to get the insulation out of the walls...cool about your sister, it's a small world!
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Old 06-12-2008, 05:52 PM   #8
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You mentioned that the floor did not show any signs of rot. However while you have the pan down work your way around the outside edge of the trailer, as close to the C channel as you can, with and ice pick. The pick will pickup problem that you may not see and as long as you can it's a great time to check.
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Old 06-12-2008, 06:35 PM   #9
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HowiE...I will do that...thanks
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:59 AM   #10
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My '73 had Norway Rats once upon a time AND mice right up to my purchase, removing pan and floor insulation did not stop the rat 'musk' fog until I Kilz stain-blocker painted the entire floor underside except a 6-inch perimeter at edges and painted the spars, frame and outriggers.

What I need to communicate (without grossing you out) is the forced air ducts act as mouse super-highways. The galvanized steel ducts seem to preserve the trails left by incontinent mice; my ductwork had dung dunes built up. There are places you can inspect duct interiors - I suggest you check them out ASAP...

I am committing to pulling entire interior liners - its a mouse habitrail condominium!!
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Old 06-13-2008, 11:22 AM   #11
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Wabbiteer...did you disinfect the underside of the floor or just put the Kilz on?
I guess I have to check the ductwork now...thanks a lot
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Old 06-13-2008, 01:35 PM   #12
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Note there is controversy in painting either sides of the plywood floor - the upper got two coats of oil porch paint to help stop mouse & formaldehyde odor and the underside got the stainblocker. I left a border around the circumference to allow some wick area for drying when minor leaks reached the sheet edge.

I counted on encapsulating whatever present with two coats of exterior grade stain-blocker - the spars and parts of the inside frame rails got Rustoleum Flat Black spray paint as the original asphalt based paint was in good shape; everything outside of the main ladder frames got POR-15'd. The worst smell section was from water tank forward and that frame iron was in the best shape.

Disinfecting versus odor-killing enzymes... I happily blotted the remaining bare plywood with diluted bathroom mildew remover (strong chlorine bleach) and it air dried for a few weeks before I put foil-foam-foil insulation up. The enzymes are worth their weight when you have no possible disease vector like family pets and I use them, but nothing beats good old bleach in my book, well, except where I pulled the back bath area floor and replaced it....
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Old 06-13-2008, 04:03 PM   #13
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Here is my plan...
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Old 06-13-2008, 09:35 PM   #14
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Eeeewwwwww!!!!!

So sorry about your problems! Can we take the tour after the smell is gone?
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