Slow floor replacement

[toastie]

Originally Posted by Stanley29

Toast,
I noticed you have the same antenna as I do on my 54 cruiser. Only problem is mine is missing and there are just two holes. Was yours a replacement or was it there when you bought her? Thanks, Stanley29

Brand new http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...-p/vts-290.htm

toastie

[albert]

super helpful, THANKS!

Originally Posted by toastie

I have had a few e-mail about my axle and decided to give some details

Axle is a Dexter.....#5200 straight 70" track 53" underslung...$189.00
Drum 12 x 2.....6 bolt.............................................. ............$159.30
Backing plate 12" L.H............................................... ..........$68.99
Backing plate 12" R.H............................................... ..........$68.99
U-Bolt kit............................................... ............................$14.00
Shackle Link...2.5"....5/8 hole.............................................. $9.00
Shackle Bolt....5/8"/ lock nut............................................... $29.34
Bushing............14-73 rednek............................................ ..$89.94
Grease and Pin............................................... ...................$5.00
Parts total............................................. .............................$633.56

Labor............................................. ....................................$75.00

Sale tax............................................... ..............................$38.01

Grand total............................................. ............................$746.57

Labor included: Install backing plate, clean and pack bearings, adj brakes
and weld on shock mounts, installed rubber bushings to leaf springs, plus
they answered all of my questions on wiring, brake away switch and much more.

The shocks where bought at Amazon.com
2 Monroe 555002 Gas-Magnum R.......$18.39........................2 $36.78
(Per Monroe tech support)

The reason for the straight axle is that I'm going with black and gray tanks and need
the 3 extra inches. With a local Dexter axle business was able to take the original axle in for very accurate measurements.

I used a local Dexter axle company:
Camper/Trailer Parts & Repair
11154 W. Grand River
Fowlerville, Michigan, 48836
Phone 517-223-9670

[albert]

Hi Toastie, Im doing a big remodel on mine right now, so hopig you can answer a question for me... Does your water heater need outside ventilation? Would it if you had it connected to propane? I also dont want to cut a huge hole in the trailer but need a new water heater. Love what your turned out like! Thanks!

Originally Posted by toastie

Having to build bed and plumbing at the same time, will be able to remove pump and fresh water tank.

toastie

[toastie]

Originally Posted by albert

Hi Toastie, Im doing a big remodel on mine right now, so hopig you can answer a question for me... Does your water heater need outside ventilation? Would it if you had it connected to propane? I also dont want to cut a huge hole in the trailer but need a new water heater. Love what your turned out like! Thanks!

albert

My hot water is strictly electric, and does not need venting, make sure the pressure relief valve get plumbed to outside. If you go with propane you will need to vent to outside.

toastie

[albert]

Hi Toastie, I reviewed so much of your great post on your AS, and now Im hoping to get some help with mine. i started a thread about restoring my 57 Overlander, and I am stuck on the re-wiring department. Do you have any leads for me to turn to to learn about wiring, both 12v and 110? Any help would be great! Thank you1

Originally Posted by toastie

Notice how the u-channel was constructed on this 1955 Safari, electrical
will be upgraded...........

[albert]

Boy this wiring is fun stuff! Is there a supplier that sells the Barman wire in a set of 5 wires already combined? Or do i need to buy 5 separate wire spools just to run the wire back to the tail lights, brakes, etc?

Originally Posted by toastie

Frank and dieseleagle

Thanks very much, will go with the yellow 12 gauge romex for the 110 volt and will buy a spool of black and a spool of white wire for the 12 volt. What gauge would be the best for the 12 volt 12 or 14.....

Thanks again

[albert]

Toastie, I think I noticed that for your lights, brake lights, running lights wiring... you used just one color wire but taped colors to it. is that how you did it? Where did you get that wire? Thanks!

Originally Posted by toastie

Zeb

All yellow 12 gauge romex wire will be going into a 12 volt fuse box and I will be following the diagram shown in picture. My question is how does the break away switch for the brakes and the 7-pin umbilical connector tie into my wiring diagram. Also in the diagram I noticed the green wire going to ground and I do understand that, but what is black wire coming from the battery, does that get grounded also to the trailer.

Thanks
Toastie

[albert]

Thanks for that info. it looks like their wire is in a conduit. i was hoping to get loose wire but in the colors needed for trailer wiring.

[albert]

Originally Posted by toastie

Joe

This is my final plan:

Wire 6 will be for the main

Wire 5 to 20 amp, will be only for air conditioner

Wire 4 to 15 amp, will be only for 45 amp Intellipower; will be plugged into a GFI

Wire 3 to 15 amp will be only for microwave and refrigerator, Direct TV box, surge protector, 32" LED TV, bathroom with GFI

Wire 2 to 15 amp will be only for electric hot water tank.

Wire 1 to 20 amp GFCI will be for exterior and interior receptacles and switches.

Toastie

Originally Posted by toastie

Hooked up the inteli-power and 12v system and everything seems to work, the battery was showing 13.42 volts. This is just a temp hook-up, will be going with battery box that meets RVIA code...........toastie

hey Toastie, where did you get the 12v fuse box that you eventually ended up using? Why did you switch to that one rather than the other?

thanks!

[toastie]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Pgw3gtzWfaA

GO BLUE!!!!!!!TURN YOUR SOUND UP!!!!!!!

[duncans]

Gorgeous! Such a fine job! You deserve every bit of praise you get.

Susan

[toastie]

Originally Posted by duncans

Gorgeous! Such a fine job! You deserve every bit of praise you get.

Susan

Thanks Susan........toastie

[toastie]

A friend of mine has a new Airstream that has a small blemish, what is it and can it grow. (see attached pic.)

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by toastie

A friend of mine has a new Airstream that has a small blemish, what is it and can it grow. (see attached pic.)

Research "filiform corrosion". It's almost unavoidable. Airplanes suffer from it too.
It's usually the result of oxygen getting thru the clearcoating at the edge of the panel and progressing from there. It must be stopped or will continue to spread.

Remove the clearcoating (Scotchbrite or abrasive paper. Always use a straight motion, not rotary to avoid polishing issues. I recommend lengthwise motions, along with the "grain" of the metal. Do not use a rotary/mechanical device or you will "burn thru" the clearcoating which will result in a browned/burnt residue which is hard to remove.) Remove the corrosion with a "scotchbrite" pad, polish it "with" the grain of the metal (likely length-wise), clean with alcohol, then recoat it with automotive clearcoating available from auto paint suppliers in fingernail-polish-type touch-up bottles and aerosol cans.
My favorite:
https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-Dodg...+up+clear+coat
Others:
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-B.../dp/B00407NK6A
Also a pen type: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-S...+up+clear+coat

[toastie]

Originally Posted by Boxite

Research "filiform corrosion". It's almost unavoidable. Airplanes suffer from it too.
It's usually the result of oxygen getting thru the clearcoating at the edge of the panel and progressing from there. It must be stopped or will continue to spread.

Remove the clearcoating (Scotchbrite or abrasive paper. Always use a straight motion, not rotary to avoid polishing issues. I recommend lengthwise motions, along with the "grain" of the metal. Do not use a rotary/mechanical device or you will "burn thru" the clearcoating which will result in a browned/burnt residue which is hard to remove.) Remove the corrosion with a "scotchbrite" pad, polish it "with" the grain of the metal (likely length-wise), clean with alcohol, then recoat it with automotive clearcoating available from auto paint suppliers in fingernail-polish-type touch-up bottles and aerosol cans.
My favorite:
https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-Dodg...+up+clear+coat
Others:
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-B.../dp/B00407NK6A
Also a pen type: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-S...+up+clear+coat

thanks, very helpful

toastie

[toastie]

Just passed 260,000 views on my thread.

toastie

[FC7039]

😀😄😊😌🙂😍😆😇😃😉😋☺️😏😏😎😜


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[toastie]

Just passed 270,000 views on my thread.......

toastie

[FC7039]

10000 views and not a comment.


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[Jim & Susan]

Originally Posted by FC7039

10000 views and not a comment.


Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums

Where is your thread? I have an opinion about everything.

I'll go crawl back under my rock now.

Jim