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Old 08-28-2012, 11:32 AM   #1009
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The picture you have of your posting rig shows about 6" of loose cotton buffing wheels. What arbor adaptor did you use to achieve this. I have the arbor extension that you I'd in post 825 but it only allows for 2 spiral sewn wheels. Is there another one that allows more room for the loose wheels?

Thanks Toastie!

Sorry "polishing rig"
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:13 PM   #1010
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Same arbor, longer bolt allows more wheels.
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:03 PM   #1011
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The picture you have of your posting rig shows about 6" of loose cotton buffing wheels. What arbor adaptor did you use to achieve this. I have the arbor extension that you I'd in post 825 but it only allows for 2 spiral sewn wheels. Is there another one that allows more room for the loose wheels?

Thanks Toastie!

Sorry "polishing rig"
Just went with a longer standard bolt from local hardware.

Toastie
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:16 AM   #1012
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Just put together some new wheel tubs I bought from Jegs high performance. The dimensions weren't perfect and after sleeping on it, I'm going to try to make some more adjustments so they WILL fit perfectly. The first one was a bit of a learning curve to put together but the second one went together fairly easily. They look great, now just to get the fit right.

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It's easier to keep the curved shape while joining the two pieces with duct tape.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:22 PM   #1013
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Just to be forewarned, in my 55FC the outer wall where the wheel wells attach has a slight curve to it so be careful and compare them to your old wheel wells.
BTW you really should start your own build thread so the rest of us can follow it and offer unsolicited advice
tim
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:49 AM   #1014
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Just to be forewarned, in my 55FC the outer wall where the wheel wells attach has a slight curve to it so be careful and compare them to your old wheel wells.
BTW you really should start your own build thread so the rest of us can follow it and offer unsolicited advice
tim
OK Tim, you're right. I could always use advice, even if it is unsolicited. This IS my first Airstream rodeo after all.

JT
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:44 PM   #1015
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Normally I would hide this big one hundred dollar and 3 day error but for you folks, I'll just swallow and look like a dumbass for eternity. When you have spent $125 for marine grade plywood and about 3 days in labor and curing time and about $20 in resin for waterproofing, measure 3 times, put an X on the scrap piece where the wheel well cutout goes before you cut and then, take a breath, step back, look real hard and then, ... Cut the right side of the plywood. OMG, what a setback.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:33 PM   #1016
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Hey Breadman. At least you remembered your tire wells. I reintroduced the frame and new subfloor to the shell with no tire wells. Now I've got to raise her back up and try it again. I guess everyone makes mistakes. ( except Toastie)
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:46 AM   #1017
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Hahaha! I feel better already. Thanks, wish we all could have Toastie looking over our shoulder. What a craftsman.
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:30 PM   #1018
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OK, I'm almost finished with securing the deck to the frame. Got some kick ass torx screws from ababa bolt co. Today that should do the trick. More photos tomorrow.

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Old 10-21-2012, 09:21 AM   #1019
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Winterized the trailer today, no antifreeze, with the removable interlocking members from both beds, was able to remove pump and fresh water tank, took about 5 minutes, can remove hot water tank but decided to leave.

toastie
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:56 AM   #1020
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Ok all you subfloor replacers, I'm most ready to install the belly skins. What are the things I need to do before I cover everything up? I know I'll need to put a fresh water drain in but is there anything else I need to consider that I can't put above the floor?
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:13 PM   #1021
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... I know I'll need to put a fresh water drain in but is there anything else I need to consider that I can't put above the floor?
You need at least one hot and one cold water drain. You need access to reach down to open the fresh tank drain. This access should also provide for the fresh water supply pipe up to your pump (unless you have a fresh tank above the floor, then you just need a drain line down through the floor and belly pan).

You need to provide perforations for propane to each appliance (fridge, stove, water heater, and maybe a space heater).

You need to provide for the brake wires.

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Old 10-23-2012, 06:48 PM   #1022
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Are the propane lines normally run under the floor to the appliances or do they go through the wall and then to the appliances? My trailer was gutted when I bought it so I don't have a reference. Thanks, JT
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