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Old 12-16-2010, 09:34 AM   #631
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Paint removal

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Originally Posted by toastie View Post
Next will be paint removal, up to 3 layers..........
Wow. You stripped the paint fast! I just bought a 55 Safari and need to strip it also. What did you use? Someone mentioned CitriStrip if I'm working in the trailer. Or, Aircraft stripper if I remove the panels. Did you use sandpaper? I appreciate anything you can tell me. Thanks!

Scott
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:13 AM   #632
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I believe Toastie provided some detail on the methods and products he used for stripping, somewhere in this thread.

And that's probably reasonable advice-- citristrip inside, and the nastiest aircraft remover you can find if/when you pull the panels. For me, the citristrip did great at removing multiple layers of latex house paint, did okay at removing the zolatone (took several applications and lots of scraping with plastic putty knives), and was absolutely useless on the baked-on enamel that was used for my overhead lights. The ONLY thing that worked on that baked-on enamel was the aircraft remover, and it worked just about instantly.

Good luck!
-Marcus
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:26 PM   #633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelerimage View Post
Wow. You stripped the paint fast! I just bought a 55 Safari and need to strip it also. What did you use? Someone mentioned CitriStrip if I'm working in the trailer. Or, Aircraft stripper if I remove the panels. Did you use sandpaper? I appreciate anything you can tell me. Thanks!

Scott
Try this http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...t-38289-6.html post 72

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Old 12-18-2010, 01:09 PM   #634
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Making progress at 15 deg's............toastie
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Old 12-18-2010, 02:23 PM   #635
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Makes our high 30's seem really warm!

Really looking great, quality work as always. I continue to steal ideas from you.

cheers,
steve
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Old 12-25-2010, 09:50 AM   #636
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Going with plexiglass for the above cabinets, subject to change of course. From here on this could become expensive, wife has complete veto power.

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Old 12-26-2010, 11:28 AM   #637
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I finally finished reading this entire thread. Awsome stuff! I didn't see what you are doing for propane heat or insulation. It looked like reflectix in the walls and fiberglass in the door. I saw you put the panel ray vent cover on the outside. Is that just for looks? I have the original heater in my 55 Safari but I think it is butane and not propane and will have to go.

I learned with my 65 Globetrotter restoration that the old insulation is worthless. I am always curious to see what people use. I am thinking of using polyurethane foam for a higher R value and to help seal against water leaks and mice.

Your thoughts ?
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Old 12-28-2010, 07:18 AM   #638
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I am thinking of using polyurethane foam for a higher R value and to help seal against water leaks and mice.

Your thoughts ?
Thanks wheelerimage

I put no insulation below the wood floor, I installed stainless steel vents in the belly pan for ventilation. Fiberglass itself will not support mold growth, but the problem with fiberglass insulation is that once it gets wet or damp from improper floor ventilation, it takes a long, long time to get it completely dry. While it's drying, it's holding moisture in contact with the wood floor and the frame that WILL be affected by prolonged exposure. Wet, damp fiberglass insulation will prevent those materials from drying out and mold could begin to colonize.

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Old 12-30-2010, 07:10 PM   #639
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Almost done with the mock-up design stage, big change's will come to a end and will get more detailed. Designed the dinette cushions today, the brown tape represent the back cushions. The dinette will turn into a 54"x 72" bed. The back of the dinette will be a shoe rack for 10 pairs.

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Old 12-31-2010, 03:29 AM   #640
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Nice!
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:26 AM   #641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toastie View Post
Thanks wheelerimage

I put no insulation below the wood floor, I installed stainless steel vents in the belly pan for ventilation. Fiberglass itself will not support mold growth, but the problem with fiberglass insulation is that once it gets wet or damp from improper floor ventilation, it takes a long, long time to get it completely dry. While it's drying, it's holding moisture in contact with the wood floor and the frame that WILL be affected by prolonged exposure. Wet, damp fiberglass insulation will prevent those materials from drying out and mold could begin to colonize.

toastie
I agree Toastie, There really is no need for insulation in the floor for a camper that is only used in the summer. No matter what type you use it will trap moisture against the floor and frame and give the mice material for there home.

Your finish work is looking great!
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:28 PM   #642
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Worked on the dinette today, should finish next week and will disassemble and start putting the finish floor down.

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Old 01-02-2011, 04:12 PM   #643
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Worked on the other half of the dinette today, I had no problems getting the awning pole's in. Next on the list is stereo speakers............

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Old 01-08-2011, 05:05 PM   #644
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Buffer

What kind of buffer do you use?
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