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Old 07-26-2010, 04:28 PM   #505
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Very well thought out installation. I really like how you are hiding the vent behind the license plate, neat. Are you going to mount the unit on rubber washers to help isolate it further or doesn't it seem to telegraph thru the floor?
Thanks very much, very happy with the installation. Will go back and fine tune to bring the noise down, Dave Park came up with some great ideas also. The noise level according to Frigidare at high is 54.8 dB, seem to be a lot less noise then the roof top on my 65 Caravel.

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Old 07-27-2010, 05:48 PM   #506
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Removed side louvres and did a test run and it did reduce the noise level. Also drilled a drain hole and ajusted the side duct work.

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Old 07-28-2010, 12:54 AM   #507
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Excellent!

I have done that on a window unit before, and it increased the airflow too, so the unit also ran a little less and drew a little less current.

It's also nice that not having the A/C on the roof lowers the center of gravity a little more.

I am thinking of doing something similar with my next project, but near the wheel cover. I'll credit you then
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:54 AM   #508
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Started working on the shower today and below pictures show my final drain setup to gray water tank, going with HepVo waterless trap and a touch-toe stopper kit. I have 2 gray water tanks, one will be used for the shower only.

Hepvo Waterless Valve


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Old 08-08-2010, 11:06 AM   #509
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Is the elevation of the shower pan vital to you? Can you shave 1" off the stopper assembly to lower from 4.5" to 3.5"?
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Old 08-08-2010, 03:48 PM   #510
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Is the elevation of the shower pan vital to you? Can you shave 1" off the stopper assembly to lower from 4.5" to 3.5"?
No need to lower, will be using 2 X 6 for the shower base. There will be a removal panel for service.

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Old 08-08-2010, 03:53 PM   #511
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With the floor of the pan elevated 6" will you have comfortable headroom? Just making sure...

Nothing worse than getting it all in, then going for a shower and bonking your head on the side wall.
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:20 PM   #512
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Starting to compound the inside, this will be the first cut, will replace all rivets with olympic rivets, then shave then to look like the rivets to the 13 panels, than compound second cut.............
OK.. What are Olympic rivets and where do you get them?
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:27 PM   #513
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Normally, riveters have access to both sides of the piece, and use buck rivets. If access is only from one side, you would use a pop rivet, which is left with an unattractive hole. Of more concern to an airstreamer, it lets water in.

Olympic rivets are a special type of pop rivet that leaves the center aluminum shaft in place when popped. This shaft can then be shaved down, so the rivet then appears to be a standard buck rivet.
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:45 PM   #514
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OK.. What are Olympic rivets and where do you get them?
Hope this helps..........toastie

Olympic Rivets
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Old 08-09-2010, 04:04 PM   #515
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Marinco power Inlet is a good product on the outside, but hooking the wires up on the inside is a pain, very poor design. This is how I handled mine.

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Old 08-09-2010, 06:44 PM   #516
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Ah, we just installed one of those. Haven't hooked it up yet. Thanks for the info, Toastie. That will come in handy (someday).

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Old 08-09-2010, 07:34 PM   #517
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Ah, we just installed one of those. Haven't hooked it up yet. Thanks for the info, Toastie. That will come in handy (someday).

Kay
Thanks very much Minno, got the idea from markdoane, http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449/marinco-electrical-connection-58288.html#post769103 . What I know today it would be a very simple installation to install wire's to the Marinco then fasten Marinco to trailer, the set screws are perpendicular to the wire inputs.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:48 PM   #518
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Please say you isolated the bright zinc-plated steel receptacle box from the aluminum!
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