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Old 11-11-2009, 09:49 AM   #365
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Yes, that's it.
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:22 PM   #366
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Yes, that's it.
dieseleagle

I will be following this diagram, they are calling for approx fuse of 55 amps
with a maximum distance of 18" of battery.

Thank http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/..._p/vts-146.htm for the diagram

Thanks very much
Toastie
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:33 PM   #367
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Call me paranoid, but I would add a fuse on the negative lead coming from the battery as well. Same rating you use on the positive lead. Fairly cheap additional insurance.

Chris
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:47 PM   #368
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Call me paranoid, but I would add a fuse on the negative lead coming from the battery as well. Same rating you use on the positive lead. Fairly cheap additional insurance.

Chris
I'm paranoid, will add it....................thanks
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Old 11-11-2009, 03:03 PM   #369
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Toastie, I used that same wiring diagram. I got it from the BestConverter.com website. Thank goodness I found it because I was stumbling around trying to figure out how to wire all that stuff together. I think I remember reading that you were going to use a new fuse panel? The one from BestConverter makes it easy.

I only used one fuse going the battery positive and another for the charge wire coming from the tow vehicle. Adding one to the battery negative does sound like a good idea. May go back and do that.

There's an explanation and some pic's in my Full Monte thread post 754 thru 764. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f226...-15132-54.html

Jim
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Old 11-11-2009, 03:35 PM   #370
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Btw Toastie - thanks for posting the wiring diagram. We’re not at that stage yet, but I'm collecting diagrams and pictures from you and other forum members, and putting them in our folder of information to look at when we start actually rebuilding Little Girl next year. Gonna be a loooong winter…
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Old 11-11-2009, 04:15 PM   #371
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Toastie, I used that same wiring diagram. I got it from the BestConverter.com website. Thank goodness I found it because I was stumbling around trying to figure out how to wire all that stuff together. I think I remember reading that you were going to use a new fuse panel? The one from BestConverter makes it easy.

I only used one fuse going the battery positive and another for the charge wire coming from the tow vehicle. Adding one to the battery negative does sound like a good idea. May go back and do that.

There's an explanation and some pic's in my Full Monte thread post 754 thru 764. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f226...-15132-54.html

Jim
Jim

Your "doin-the-full-monte" thread made it one of my favorites 2 years ago, great job. The diagram really helps me and I hope it helps others. Going with a fuse panel from 12V RV Fuse Box

Thanks
toastie
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:24 PM   #372
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That's the same one I used, except mine has only 9 output lugs. Made it really easy to tie everything together. I tried to scavenge the fuse panel from the old Univolt, but it was just too cumbersome to try and make it work (didn't want to mount correctly, no cover to protect the wiring, etc.). I was really surprised how easily everything went together.

Keep up the good work and keep posting pictures!

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Old 11-12-2009, 08:25 AM   #373
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... I'm sort of curious if anyone has used the 8 gauge wire specified in the Intellipower diagram for the primary battery connection. That seems kind of light to me and sort of explains why my diagram calls for a 40 amp fuse with 6 gauge cable and the Intellipower diagram calls for a 55 amp fuse with 8 gauge cable.... I do have a long run since I put the batteries in the front and my power center will be in the bed frame in the back.
Let me swim against the current (pun fully intended) here. If the batteries were close to the power distribution center, there is no reason to use heavier wire than required by your fuse protection, eg, 40 amps. From a heat standpoint, #12 is good to 41 amps and #10 is good to 55 amps. So for to provide a bit of margin, you'd definitely want at least #10.

If we cant to consider this from a voltage drop standpoint, #10 wire has a resistance of 1 ohm per 1000 feet. Let's assume that you are going to use #10 as your return ground wire, too. So, for a run of 25' from the front to the back, you'd have a total loop resistance using #10 wire of 50/1000, or 0.05 ohms. Computing voltage drop (E=IR), 40x0.05=2 volts, which is not good. If you go to #8 wire (at 0.6 ohm/1000') you'd have a drop of 1.2 volts and for #6 (at 0.4 ohm/1000') you'd have a drop of 0.8 volts. But this is all worst case, at 40 amps.

Lordy, I hope you don't boondock with a draw like that. What kind of battery load can you really expect?
Automotive bulbs -- 1.35 amps (used in the vintage vent lights, 6 ea)LED lights -- 0.20 amps
Fantastic Fan -- 2 amps
Range hood -- 2.5 amps
Water Pump -- 3.5 amps
Heater -- 4-5 ? amps
Radio/CD -- 0.8 amps
Tongue jack -- bazillions of amps


Your worst case would be having two of the vintage vent lights on full blast and the range hood--that would put you up around 18 amps, of which 16 amps are the lights. The intermitent water pump is not a significant factor. If you're careful, even with the old lights, you're most likely at 9-10 amps max, and with new LED lights, you're under 5 continuous amps. Now we're talking. With #10 wire, at 5 amps you'll have only a 1/4 volt drop.

IMHO, a #10 supply wire and a #8 ground return wire is more than adequate. For those bad moments when you're drawing maybe 20 amps, you'll have a 1 volt drop, which isn't terrible. If you've properly fused for 40 amps, #10 wire will never be a safety hazard (OK, don't go coiling up 100' of #10 wire in a tight ball just to prove a point, here).

Since your batteries are up front, you should wire the tongue jack directly to the batteries/tow vehicle charge line through a 40 amp thermal breaker.

Contrary opinions/analysis eagerly awaited.

Zep

PS--All I'm trying to do, here, is to get people to stop wiring their batteries as if they are connected to an engine starter motor. We're never drawing 300 amps in an Airstream, ever. Like never ever. If you draw even 40 amps (except for the tongue jack), you need to readdress why you're in a trailer instead of a 747.
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:38 AM   #374
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PS--All I'm trying to do, here, is to get people to stop wiring their batteries as if they are connected to an engine starter motor. We're never drawing 300 amps in an Airstream, ever. Like never ever. If you draw even 40 amps (except for the tongue jack), you need to readdress why you're in a trailer instead of a 747.

Heheh... I'm an electrical engineer, and I approve this message.

-Marcus
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Old 11-14-2009, 05:50 AM   #375
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We are planning for air conditioning but we don't want to put one on the roof top, so, we decided to go with central air. Plan is to take a regular window AC unit and flip it. There will be a opening on the bottom that will open and close.
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:59 PM   #376
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Worked on belly pan today and attached the shell to front steel hold plate, 33 rivets. I had wanted to go with 5 rows but ended up with only 3 row of rivets. Also attached a vintage antenna filling a hole that was there, worked out great.
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:03 PM   #377
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Plan is to take a regular window AC unit and flip it. There will be a opening on the bottom that will open and close.


Toastie, let me apologize (sort of) to start with. This statement you just made leaves too many openings to not respond…

The first time we camped in South Carolina 24 years ago was the first time we ever saw window a/c units on pop-up trailers. They took the propane tank(s) and batteries off the tongue and mounted a window a/c unit. One of the weirdest set-ups we ever saw. Effective though in the 98+ degree temps we camped in.

Based on this experience, I have visions of you mounting a window a/c unit on the tongue of your AS, with a hole cut through the front skin hiding all the really nice rivets you show in your next post. Or, maybe you’ll place the window a/c unit in a window? No matter what you do, you’ll HAVE to post pictures!

One other minor thing – if you flip the a/c unit, won’t you blow hot air into the trailer? I’m sure you MUST have another meaning for “flip,” but I’ll be danged if I can figure out what you mean.

Kay says I’m being bratty.

All in good natured fun,
Chris
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:02 PM   #378
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Toastie, let me apologize (sort of) to start with. This statement you just made leaves too many openings to not respond…

The first time we camped in South Carolina 24 years ago was the first time we ever saw window a/c units on pop-up trailers. They took the propane tank(s) and batteries off the tongue and mounted a window a/c unit. One of the weirdest set-ups we ever saw. Effective though in the 98+ degree temps we camped in.

Based on this experience, I have visions of you mounting a window a/c unit on the tongue of your AS, with a hole cut through the front skin hiding all the really nice rivets you show in your next post. Or, maybe you’ll place the window a/c unit in a window? No matter what you do, you’ll HAVE to post pictures!

One other minor thing – if you flip the a/c unit, won’t you blow hot air into the trailer? I’m sure you MUST have another meaning for “flip,” but I’ll be danged if I can figure out what you mean.

Kay says I’m being bratty.

All in good natured fun,
Chris
Chris

Will locate the AC next to refrigerator. One of our T.C.T members has a beautifully restored 1947 Spartan and he told me that he had central air and I said that you got to be kidding. I walk around his trailer twice, look on top and bottom and no sign of AC, I gave up and he showed us. The AC is located behind the wall that says AC in the picture, around the corner he had a louvered panel that opened up and there was the AC unit. You can see the opening that he cut for air intake, hot air blows out the bottom of trailer, and the cold air is directed up, then he used flexable duct work. He says that it does a great job. Will post more pic's in the spring.

toastie
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