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Old 10-26-2009, 08:35 PM   #351
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I still stand by the idea of not putting all outlets and switches (lights) on a single circuit, though.
Joe

This is my final plan:

Wire 6 will be for the main

Wire 5 to 20 amp, will be only for air conditioner

Wire 4 to 15 amp, will be only for 45 amp Intellipower; will be plugged into a GFI

Wire 3 to 15 amp will be only for microwave and refrigerator, Direct TV box, surge protector, 32" LED TV, bathroom with GFI

Wire 2 to 15 amp will be only for electric hot water tank.

Wire 1 to 20 amp GFCI will be for exterior and interior receptacles and switches.

Toastie
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:19 PM   #352
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You know I haven't studied the electrical set up of any of my Airstreams (yet), but I wonder if any of them have a circuit breaker dedicated to the Univolt (Intellipower in your case). In your case 45A at 12V is about 540W. At 115VAC this is only 4.7A. Given efficiency losses the input current would be a little higher, but still much less than one could on a 15A circuit breaker. Is dedicated really required? I actually don't know.

Food for thought in any case. If anyone else knows that Airstream actually dedicated a circuit breaker for the converter, please speak up.

BTW, I like the current draw of that 750W Isotemp water heater, but at $600+ it is too pricey for me and without engine coolant circulating thru it I wonder how long it would take to heat up. In any case, the idea to look for a marine electric water heater is probably good as they will be made to survive bouncing across waves (or bumps in the road) more than a residential unit would. There seem to be several marine water heaters in the 1500W range, several much less expensive than the Isotemp.
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Old 10-27-2009, 04:41 AM   #353
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Originally Posted by 66Overlander View Post
You know I haven't studied the electrical set up of any of my Airstreams (yet), but I wonder if any of them have a circuit breaker dedicated to the Univolt (Intellipower in your case). In your case 45A at 12V is about 540W. At 115VAC this is only 4.7A. Given efficiency losses the input current would be a little higher, but still much less than one could on a 15A circuit breaker. Is dedicated really required? I actually don't know.

Food for thought in any case. If anyone else knows that Airstream actually dedicated a circuit breaker for the converter, please speak up.

BTW, I like the current draw of that 750W Isotemp water heater, but at $600+ it is too pricey for me and without engine coolant circulating thru it I wonder how long it would take to heat up. In any case, the idea to look for a marine electric water heater is probably good as they will be made to survive bouncing across waves (or bumps in the road) more than a residential unit would. There seem to be several marine water heaters in the 1500W range, several much less expensive than the Isotemp.
The advantages of a 125 amp box.

$600.00 plus for the Isotemp is not all that bad. Price of a propane heater is about $400.00 plus $80.00 for a stainless steel cover to replace the white cover plus you have to cut a large hole. A premium of $120.00 for the Isotemp.

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Old 10-27-2009, 10:37 PM   #354
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Thumbs up Dedicated circuits are the way to go

Having done a a lot of electrical work, both DC and AC, I'd have to agree that dedicated circuits are the way to go Toastie. With your complete rebuild, you have the luxury of replacing and re-engineering the wiring, and there have been a lot of advances in insulation and even the copper alloys used in the wire. Personally, I like dedicated grounds as well for high draw circuits, especially in wet areas. I was wondering if you put in any underfloor wire conduit(s) or channel(s) for your AC and DC wiring? I would try to do that on mine if I don't run into fitment problems with other stuff below the floor. Panduit and other companies make a U channel in both plastic and metal that can have a screw on cover, so you could access the wiring troughs from under the airstream. I mostly use stranded wire now for both DC and AC, because it has much better transmission characteristics and lower impedance (Better GFCI performance), and is more flexible and bend tolerant. The exception of course is for communications, where I usually go with solid 24ga twisted pair.

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1968 Sovereign 30' - just starting the tearout phase
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:54 AM   #355
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Having done a a lot of electrical work, both DC and AC, I'd have to agree that dedicated circuits are the way to go Toastie. With your complete rebuild, you have the luxury of replacing and re-engineering the wiring, and there have been a lot of advances in insulation and even the copper alloys used in the wire. Personally, I like dedicated grounds as well for high draw circuits, especially in wet areas. I was wondering if you put in any underfloor wire conduit(s) or channel(s) for your AC and DC wiring? I would try to do that on mine if I don't run into fitment problems with other stuff below the floor. Panduit and other companies make a U channel in both plastic and metal that can have a screw on cover, so you could access the wiring troughs from under the airstream. I mostly use stranded wire now for both DC and AC, because it has much better transmission characteristics and lower impedance (Better GFCI performance), and is more flexible and bend tolerant. The exception of course is for communications, where I usually go with solid 24ga twisted pair.

Theo
1968 Sovereign 30' - just starting the tearout phase
Theo

After doing a lot of reading on the forum about others electrical problems and having problems with my 65 Caravel, it makes sense to me to be able to trace a problem. The main wire, wire 5 AC, wire 4 INTELLIPOWER, wire 2 HOTWATER will not be buried in the walls. 12v and TV wiring (have box) will be outside the interior walls and behind removable interior panels.

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Old 10-29-2009, 04:54 PM   #356
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Have decided to go with a suburban LP gas or 110 volt electric hot water system. Have plan's to modify for lp use. Suburban RV Water Heaters on Sale
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:46 PM   #357
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Wire routing

I am still researching the evolution of Airstream's electrical engineering to understand their practices, but in the 60's (I have a 1968 Sovereign 30') most of the wiring was in the walls. I agree that putting the wiring in the walls for things not attached to the walls makes no sense. I plan to have some wiring trays under the floor for wiring the appliances that are attached to the floor, and to try and run conduit or wiring channels in the shell for the things that terminate there. DC circuits are obviously easier to handle than AC, but they can also use harness connectors that can be removed, wire nuts are so yesterday.
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:54 AM   #358
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I am still researching the evolution of Airstream's electrical engineering to understand their practices
I would say that Airstream in the 50's safety was not on the top of there list, 110v system was unsafe then and after 50 years from typical corrosion and shorting to sharp edges on the aluminum skin and frame even more today. The sheathing on the wiring has pretty much decomposed, leaving only the vinyl insulation, and Airstream didn't always use grommets. 50's owners and future buyer's beware..........toastie
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:01 AM   #359
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Finished running all 110V wire that will be going into the walls. I ended up with 13 inside receptacles, 1 outside receptacles, 1 switch to outside light, 2 switches for led lights. Wired box, ran test and everything worked. The wire running to Marinco will be changed, see http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449/marinco-electrical-connection-58288.html#post769103

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Old 11-08-2009, 12:04 PM   #360
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13 outlets, huh? Now I donít feel so bad thinking I need 14 or 15 in Little Girl!

Looks great Toastie!

Chris
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Old 11-08-2009, 12:12 PM   #361
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13 outlets, huh? Now I don’t feel so bad thinking I need 14 or 15 in Little Girl!

Looks great Toastie!

Chris
Thanks Chris, will be adding a few more, you just can't have enough, only 5 will be seen inside.

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Old 11-10-2009, 04:06 PM   #362
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Worked on belly pan and wiring (7-way bargman cord) today. When I bought the trailer there was no step and I plan not to add one. There will be no insulation below the floor and I will be adding stainless steel vents to belly pan.

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Old 11-11-2009, 05:31 AM   #363
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By the time you are done you will think the AS contains as much copper as there is aluminum. I think I may have underwired. I've only got 2 110V exterior outlets and 10 interior. Oh where oh where did I go wrong? Did you remember the 40 Amp fusable links for the trailer wiring?
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Old 11-11-2009, 09:07 AM   #364
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By the time you are done you will think the AS contains as much copper as there is aluminum. I think I may have underwired. I've only got 2 110V exterior outlets and 10 interior. Oh where oh where did I go wrong? Did you remember the 40 Amp fusable links for the trailer wiring?
Are you talking about the fuse between the battery and the intelli-power
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