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Old 12-17-2007, 07:01 PM   #15
toastie
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Profile:  1965 17' Caravel
1955 22' Safari
, , Michigan
Posts: 441

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
I was pretty proud of all my light colored birch and maple

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f38/...bed-20569.html

until I saw Blu_Hwy_Lady's interior (she's an ace at painting over the vinyl coating)!

Attachment 51025Attachment 51026

or Brads' (AZFLYCSTER?) tradewind.

Attachment 51027Attachment 51028

have fun. Become as conflicted as the rest of us! But OMG, you are fast!

Zep
Like the hanging light over the table, very nice Zep. Things will probably slow down a little, just getting to friggin cold here, we had over 10" snow Sunday.
This is a 2+ year project...........
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Old 12-21-2007, 06:04 PM   #16
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1955 22' Safari
, , Michigan
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Starting to compound 1st cut

Starting to compound the inside, this will be the first cut, will replace all rivets with olympic rivets, then shave then to look like the rivets to the 13 panels, than compound second cut.............
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Old 12-21-2007, 06:49 PM   #17
Zeppelinium
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1977 23' Safari
1975 31' Sovereign
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Toastie, can you do a little bit wider angle shot. I'm pretty sure I'm looking at the dome, but I'm disoriented. Looks great, btw. I don't think this is going to take you 2 years at the rate you're going.

Zep
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Old 12-21-2007, 07:13 PM   #18
toastie
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1955 22' Safari
, , Michigan
Posts: 441

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
Toastie, can you do a little bit wider angle shot. I'm pretty sure I'm looking at the dome, but I'm disoriented. Looks great, btw. I don't think this is going to take you 2 years at the rate you're going.

Zep
Does this help, the reflection is the floor that will be replaced after the prep work.
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Old 12-22-2007, 06:24 AM   #19
Zeppelinium
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1977 23' Safari
1975 31' Sovereign
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yes, thanks.

I'm going to replace the forward plastic end cap in my '77 Safari, so I'm very interested in how your panels fit and how they intersect the window frame. It looks like I could do it with 11 panels and get a good curve. I've got a photo of FLYFHSR's dinnette in his '59 Tradwind and it shows his metal end cap are made from only 5 panels, but they are probably compound curved.

Would you mind posting the dimensions of your end cap panels, just their widths as they join the straight side/top skins and where they join the window frame? Thanks.

Zep
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Old 12-22-2007, 06:43 AM   #20
62overlander
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Catonsville , Maryland
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Don't give it to him, he needs to figure it out for himself.

Has the floor been replaced yet? Seems like a ton of work before you lay the floor. It sure looks spectacular though/
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Old 12-22-2007, 07:38 AM   #21
toastie
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1955 22' Safari
, , Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
Don't give it to him, he needs to figure it out for himself.

Has the floor been replaced yet? Seems like a ton of work before you lay the floor. It sure looks spectacular though/
Highly recommend removing paint and compounding to leave the old floor. You will wreck the new floor with paint drippings and falling paint splatters from scraping, and a black residue from the compounding. Once the new floor is in, will cover the floor with paper, will compound with the cyclo using F7 with wraps, then polish, using nuvite S with cyclo wraps, messy but not as messy using a compound wheel. I Don't consider this work.
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Old 12-22-2007, 12:40 PM   #22
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that makes total sense... all that shine takes the song to a new level..." mirrors on the ceiling, pink champagna on ice"
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Old 12-27-2007, 01:39 PM   #23
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1955 22' Safari
, , Michigan
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Finished first compound cut and removed floor

Finished first compound cut and removed floor, will compound second time
after the new floor is in. Looking for a local welder for frame repair.
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Old 12-27-2007, 04:47 PM   #24
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1955 22' Safari
, , Michigan
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A few more pic's u-channel and electrical

Notice how the u-channel was constructed on this 1955 Safari, electrical
will be upgraded...........
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Old 12-29-2007, 02:01 PM   #25
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1955 22' Safari
, , Michigan
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Removed wheel wells today and also

Removed wheel wells today and also started removing the belly pan. The wheel wells will be re-fabricated, one will become a small bench in the bathroom/shower room. With belly pan and axle removed, and the shell raised, should have no problems installing the new floor.
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Old 12-29-2007, 03:26 PM   #26
Fyrzowt
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Templeton , California
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Toastie,
Looks great, you're moving fast. At this rate you'll come in under your two year window, but you're smart to plan for the long haul. Sometimes life does get in the way.
Keep at it, I'm impressed.
Dave
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Old 02-10-2008, 11:56 AM   #27
toastie
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1955 22' Safari
, , Michigan
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To cold to work outside

To cold to work outside, so I removed some of the window's, and the door, and working on them in the basement. Had a good fine on e-bay picking up
2 Bargman lever with locks in one auction, will have a local locksmith make new keys. Parts will be sent out to be chromed, and hoping to end up with one complete set. Also planning and researching for when the weather breaks here.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:28 PM   #28
toastie
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1955 22' Safari
, , Michigan
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Another lucky fine

Another lucky fine, brand new. Will take above door part shown above, plus these parts to the chromer next week...........
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