Visit our Popular Forums

3Ms75Argosy · 12-01-2008, 06:21 PM

About those grounds.... I know you connect the grounds together, but in an RV, do you really ground to the shell, or just connect to the ground on the distribution center, which is grounded externally by the connection to the shore power source outside the trailer?

So in other words, the ground is connected to the outside via the shore power cord, not to the shell? Wouldn't grounding to the shell create the danger of a hot shell if the shore power is wired incorrectly with the neg and ground reversed?

I'm not a electrician, just wondering as I have to do this re-wiring myself.

malconium · 12-01-2008, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toastie

Using the same plus this one, bought at Home Depot for $1.12

Bracketed for side mounting
1-1/4"D x 2-3/8"W x 3-5/8"L
Nonmetallic
MFG Brand Name : Carlon
MFG Model # : B108B-UPC
MFG Part # : B108B-UPC

I am pretty sure that if you check the width of both of the boxes mentioned you will find that they are not as wide as the orignal boxes. In otherwords they will not fully fill up the existing hole in the inner skin where you are trying to replace the old outlet box. The outlet cover plate is also wider than a standard plate. At leaset that is what I find to be the case on my '73.

Malcolm

clancy_boy · 12-02-2008, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by malconium

<SNIP> The outlet cover plate is also wider than a standard plate. At leaset that is what I find to be the case on my '73.

Malcolm

There are outlet and switch covers that are slightly larger than the covers you may have in your home or trailer. These are called "restoration" or "referb" covers at the electrical supply store - I have no idea if HD or Lowes knows what they are. They are typically used to "hide" repairs or additions where a box is added to a wall in old construction and the hole is not so neat and slightly larger than the box so that can be affixed to the wall.

malconium · 12-02-2008, 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clancy_boy

There are outlet and switch covers that are slightly larger than the covers you may have in your home or trailer. These are called "restoration" or "referb" covers at the electrical supply store - I have no idea if HD or Lowes knows what they are. They are typically used to "hide" repairs or additions where a box is added to a wall in old construction and the hole is not so neat and slightly larger than the box so that can be affixed to the wall.

Thanks for the tip. I will have to look around and see what I can find in my area along those lines. That is unless I decide to just stick with the ones that I have.

Thanks,

Malcolm

Alumanutz · 12-03-2008, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by malconium

Thanks for the tip. I will have to look around and see what I can find in my area along those lines. That is unless I decide to just stick with the ones that I have.

Thanks,

Malcolm

Malcolm, VTS sells the red Bakelite boxes like originals.

NUTZ

malconium · 12-03-2008, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alumanutz

Malcolm, VTS sells the red Bakelite boxes like originals.

NUTZ

That's a great tip if that is indeed the same width as my old ones.

Thanks a bunch...

Malcolm

Silverhobby · 12-03-2008, 11:45 AM

Toastie, This is a very informative thread. Having just bought a 1954 Safari, you have provide useful information for many aspects of restoration that I am about to begin. Thanks.....

toastie · 12-07-2008, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silverhobby

Toastie, This is a very informative thread. Having just bought a 1954 Safari, you have provide useful information for many aspects of restoration that I am about to begin. Thanks.....

Thanks very much Silverhobby, if you start a thread please send me the link, would like to see lots of pictures of that 54 Safari.

Toastie

toastie · 12-07-2008, 07:53 AM

Just received the new refrigerator on Friday, went with Dometic RM 2354, should fit great under one of the three windows. Can't test it until
I hook 12V to it to run the panel.

Dometic

Toastie

Aerowood · 12-07-2008, 09:56 AM

I just picked up a used but in very good condition R763 that I have been testing. I thought that a 12vdc battery charger would be ok to use as a 12v source, boy was I wrong. It keep turning itself off of the 120vac and flashing the no gas ignition light when the gas wasn't even turned on. I found an installation manual online along with an overhaul manual which said not to hook the 12v up directly to the converter, but with a battery as a buffer. This got me tho thinking (dangerous sometimes) so I asked one of our engineers at work about it and he explained it to me. A battery charger and some power converters put out a pulsed 12vdc output from the 60hz input, and the battery is needed to "clean up" the output. This can confuse a circuit board or even cause damage depending on the design of the board. I just finished a test this morning running the fridge for two days on the 120vac side with a battery only as a 12vdc source and the fridge is working as designed. FWIW

Kip

toastie · 12-07-2008, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

I just picked up a used but in very good condition R763 that I have been testing. I thought that a 12vdc battery charger would be ok to use as a 12v source, boy was I wrong. It keep turning itself off of the 120vac and flashing the no gas ignition light when the gas wasn't even turned on. I found an installation manual online along with an overhaul manual which said not to hook the 12v up directly to the converter, but with a battery as a buffer. This got me tho thinking (dangerous sometimes) so I asked one of our engineers at work about it and he explained it to me. A battery charger and some power converters put out a pulsed 12vdc output from the 60hz input, and the battery is needed to "clean up" the output. This can confuse a circuit board or even cause damage depending on the design of the board. I just finished a test this morning running the fridge for two days on the 120vac side with a battery only as a 12vdc source and the fridge is working as designed. FWIW

Kip

I will have to test mine inside the house with 120vac but to get the panel to work need to hook up directly to 12vdc battery. Would anybody know what the blue wire is for...............thanks

Aerowood · 12-07-2008, 02:08 PM

Some refers have a ignition lock that turns the gas operation off when the ingnition key on the tow vehicle is energized, and then runs the refer on 12vdc from the tow vehicle battery using the TV to Trailer battery charging circut. The circut has a delay timer that allows the the system to stay on the tow vehicle battery for a specified time with the ignition off so that the gas operation side does not energize when at the gas pump,etc. after the trailer is unhooked the timer will engage and allow the gas operation to start or 120vac operation. A seperate wire has to be run from the TV to the refer for this system to work. I haven't decided if I am going to use this feature or not. This could be what the extra wire is for.

Kip

toastie · 12-07-2008, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

Some refers have a ignition lock that turns the gas operation off when the ingnition key on the tow vehicle is energized, and then runs the refer on 12vdc from the tow vehicle battery using the TV to Trailer battery charging circut. The circut has a delay timer that allows the the system to stay on the tow vehicle battery for a specified time with the ignition off so that the gas operation side does not energize when at the gas pump,etc. after the trailer is unhooked the timer will engage and allow the gas operation to start or 120vac operation. A seperate wire has to be run from the TV to the refer for this system to work. I haven't decided if I am going to use this feature or not. This could be what the extra wire is for.

Kip

Kip

Looking over the wiring diagrams on all there models, I think that the blue wire is what they call a "test point", will call Dometic tomorrow.

toastie