Slow floor replacement

[Zeppelinium]

You've got a great plan, already. Nice box--a little bigger than usual, but it sure gives you the ability to go GFCI without having to do it "backwards."

One thing I've noticed in my Overlander is a dearth of outlets up front, especially around the door (on the inside). I would also recommend an outlet outside on the street side and one outside on the front.

Zep

[toastie]

Originally Posted by Zeppelinium

You've got a great plan, already. Nice box--a little bigger than usual, but it sure gives you the ability to go GFCI without having to do it "backwards."

One thing I've noticed in my Overlander is a dearth of outlets up front, especially around the door (on the inside). I would also recommend an outlet outside on the street side and one outside on the front.

Zep

Thanks Zep

In the picture, the upper receptacle is for a plug in light, and the lower will be a power outlet, have a extra power outlet receptacle that I will add.

Toastie

[toastie]

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

125 amps? Wow! Seriously, tho, looks like you're headed down the right path. One thing I did was to add a seperate dedicated 15 amp breaker & circuit just for the microwave. Something to think about if you are going to install one those.

Jim

Thanks Jim

Yes we will have a microwave and will take a look at it.

Toastie

[malconium]

It may be too late for you to want to change and maybe you already have your charger but I decided to change. I originally bought a 30amp box at Lowes or Home Depot but decided not to use it when I discovered the following combination 120v/12v panel with integrated charger. The really cool thing is that my wife bought me one for my 60th birthday. I have not yet had time to install it though.

XADC 30A Distribution Center

What I especially like about the panel/charger combination is that it has a nice front panel accessible arrangement to all the fuses and the charger itself.

See what you think.

Malcolm

[toastie]

Originally Posted by malconium

It may be too late for you to want to change and maybe you already have your charger but I decided to change. I originally bought a 30amp box at Lowes or Home Depot but decided not to use it when I discovered the following combination 120v/12v panel with integrated charger. The really cool thing is that my wife bought me one for my 60th birthday. I have not yet had time to install it though.

XADC 30A Distribution Center

What I especially like about the panel/charger combination is that it has a nice front panel accessible arrangement to all the fuses and the charger itself.

See what you think.

Malcolm

Lucky, that is one slick box. Yes to late, decided to go with what I have since I've already ripped into everything.........thanks very much

[toastie]

Starting my second of 3 compoundings, nuvite G6 is working great.

[3Ms75Argosy]

Wow, that's shiney in there! Hard to tell what's been skinned and what hasn't. I'm not sure if I want to see the top of my head though!
Marc

[Frank's Trailer Works]

... mirrors on the ceiling, pink champagne on ice.... it keeps going through my head when I look at that.

[GR8DANE]

...we are all just prisoners here...of our own device...

[toastie]

Started work on the layout shown in blue and getting a feel for what the wife wants.

[safari57]

After doing mine I thought I should have used some old carboard to make temporary walls and counter tops on mine to get a real feel for the layout and how it impacted space and functionality. It would have taken an hour or two at most and would have put things into truly visual perspective for us. There are a couple of things I'd have done differently to give a more open feel and better leveraged what is now almost dead space.

Barry

[toastie]

Originally Posted by safari57

After doing mine I thought I should have used some old carboard to make temporary walls and counter tops on mine to get a real feel for the layout and how it impacted space and functionality. It would have taken an hour or two at most and would have put things into truly visual perspective for us. There are a couple of things I'd have done differently to give a more open feel and better leveraged what is now almost dead space.

Barry

Barry

Thanks, I agree, before we start the carpentry everthing should be planned to the 1/2". There is no closet in this design.

Toastie

[64TrotterAtl]

Originally Posted by toastie

Went to Lowes today and bought my GE electrical box and circuit breakers.

1) 125 amps TL412C main lug box
1) 15 amp GFCI
1) 20 amp GFCI
1) 15 amp breaker
1) 20 amp breaker
1) 10' of #8 wire that I will run from Marinco 30A 125V to Main 30 amp breaker.

This will be a BIG learning curve for me. Will need to come up with a wiring diagram on paper so I can balance out the question marks below. Then I will go to the 12v system.

Wire 5 will be for the main
Wire 4 to the 20 amp will be only for air conditioner
Wire 3 to the 15 amp will be Intellipower and ?????
Wire 2 to 15 amp GFCI will be kitchen, exterior and ?????
Wire 1 to 20 amp GFCI will be bath, refrigerator, exterior and ?????

I have been following your thread off and on. I am glad you are wiring thins now. I have attached a wire diagram that I picked up here on the forums. Maybe it helps with the design phase of things.

I have a question. I am wiring all of my 110 now also. So for "wire 1" mentioned above, you will run a wire to the bathroom receptacle, then from there, a wire to refrigerator, then that same wire to an exterior outlet, ending there.?? I am new to electricity, can you educate me a little. Will there be a junction box at each connection?

Do you have a diagram since these posts have been made? I am just trying to figure out mainly about the junction boxes and running all the 110 wire. Will all of your outlets inside be 110?

Andrew

[toastie]

Originally Posted by 64TrotterAtl

I have been following your thread off and on. I am glad you are wiring thins now. I have attached a wire diagram that I picked up here on the forums. Maybe it helps with the design phase of things.

I have a question. I am wiring all of my 110 now also. So for "wire 1" mentioned above, you will run a wire to the bathroom receptacle, then from there, a wire to refrigerator, then that same wire to an exterior outlet, ending there.?? I am new to electricity, can you educate me a little. Will there be a junction box at each connection?

Do you have a diagram since these posts have been made? I am just trying to figure out mainly about the junction boxes and running all the 110 wire. Will all of your outlets inside be 110?

Andrew

Andrew

Sorry, If I where a electrician I could help, I can't give advice on this subject due to its nature and my lack of electrical knowledge.

Toastie

[Zeppelinium]

Originally Posted by 64TrotterAtl

...I have a question. I am wiring all of my 110 now also. So for "wire 1" mentioned above, you will run a wire to the bathroom receptacle, then from there, a wire to refrigerator, then that same wire to an exterior outlet, ending there.?? I am new to electricity, can you educate me a little. Will there be a junction box at each connection?
...Andrew

Andrew, once you decide which outlet boxes will be on which circuit, you chain them together, eg, run the wire to the first box, then from there to the second box, then on to the next, etc. You can use the 1" deep plastic boxes or any box that will fit in the shell thickness. You don't need a "junction" box as a separate box--the outlet itself has enough screw terminals for the incoming and outgoing wires, except the ground, which you can splice using either a wire nut or a bare metal crimp-on splice. Splice the two grounds together with another short piece of wire--the short piece goes to the ground screw at the bottom of the outlet.

Using a wire nut in the thinnest box will be a little cramped, but you can do it.

When you attach the wires to the outlet, the silver screws are for the white wire and the brass screws are for the black. This is important, as it keeps your neutral and hot sides properly oriented. I also recommend that you use the screw terminals, not the push-in connections on the back of many outlets.

Zep

[toastie]

Originally Posted by Zeppelinium

Andrew, once you decide which outlet boxes will be on which circuit, you chain them together, eg, run the wire to the first box, then from there to the second box, then on to the next, etc. You can use the 1" deep plastic boxes or any box that will fit in the shell thickness. You don't need a "junction" box as a separate box--the outlet itself has enough screw terminals for the incoming and outgoing wires, except the ground, which you can splice using either a wire nut or a bare metal crimp-on splice. Splice the two grounds together with another short piece of wire--the short piece goes to the ground screw at the bottom of the outlet.

Using a wire nut in the thinnest box will be a little cramped, but you can do it.

When you attach the wires to the outlet, the silver screws are for the white wire and the brass screws are for the black. This is important, as it keeps your neutral and hot sides properly oriented. I also recommend that you use the screw terminals, not the push-in connections on the back of many outlets.

Zep

Thanks Zep................Toastie

[malconium]

Originally Posted by Zeppelinium

Andrew, once you decide which outlet boxes will be on which circuit, you chain them together, eg, run the wire to the first box, then from there to the second box, then on to the next, etc. You can use the 1" deep plastic boxes or any box that will fit in the shell thickness. You don't need a "junction" box as a separate box--the outlet itself has enough screw terminals for the incoming and outgoing wires, except the ground, which you can splice using either a wire nut or a bare metal crimp-on splice. Splice the two grounds together with another short piece of wire--the short piece goes to the ground screw at the bottom of the outlet.

Using a wire nut in the thinnest box will be a little cramped, but you can do it.

When you attach the wires to the outlet, the silver screws are for the white wire and the brass screws are for the black. This is important, as it keeps your neutral and hot sides properly oriented. I also recommend that you use the screw terminals, not the push-in connections on the back of many outlets.

Zep

Hi Zep,

Have you found a source for a box that fits the same as the original boxes? I have noticed that the ones on my 73 are wider than a single box but not as big as a double box. Of course they are somewhat shallow too because of the limited wall thickness.

Malcolm

[Zeppelinium]

No, I haven't added or replaced any boxes yet. When I get back into the Safari I will be doing that, so I hope someone finds the right box before I need them.

Zep

[vhord]

This is the outlet box that I am planning on using. They are available from Ace Hardware SKU #3003720. Retail $1.29 ea. They are 1-1/4" thick.

"CARLON" PVC 1 GANG SHALLOW OUTLET BOX
Mfg #B108R
UPC #034481043768
*8 cubic inch capacity
*4 knockouts
*Use in basement walls or where space is limited
*UL listed

I hope this helps.

[toastie]

Originally Posted by vhord

This is the outlet box that I am planning on using. They are available from Ace Hardware SKU #3003720. Retail $1.29 ea. They are 1-1/4" thick.

"CARLON" PVC 1 GANG SHALLOW OUTLET BOX
Mfg #B108R
UPC #034481043768
*8 cubic inch capacity
*4 knockouts
*Use in basement walls or where space is limited
*UL listed

I hope this helps.

Attachment 71979

Using the same plus this one, bought at Home Depot for $1.12


Bracketed for side mounting
1-1/4"D x 2-3/8"W x 3-5/8"L
Nonmetallic
MFG Brand Name : Carlon
MFG Model # : B108B-UPC
MFG Part # : B108B-UPC