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Old 08-17-2008, 04:36 PM   #141
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Frame removed

The frame is much easier to work on when removed. Removed the axle and took it to a local rv repair shop for new axle. Will be going with a Dexter 5200 lb straight axle, but will be using the existing leaf springs. The bushings will be rubber with outer and inner steel bushings, just like I took off. While waiting for the axle will be working on the black and gray water tanks.
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Old 08-17-2008, 10:49 PM   #142
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I am ready to lift the shell off my Safarie. I am concidering grinding the heads of the fasteners that hold the shell to the frame. Good idea or bad????? How is the best way to remove these fasteners??
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Old 08-18-2008, 03:59 AM   #143
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I am ready to lift the shell off my Safarie. I am concidering grinding the heads of the fasteners that hold the shell to the frame. Good idea or bad????? How is the best way to remove these fasteners??
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Old 08-18-2008, 05:11 AM   #144
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just grab on to them with vise grips and break them off....
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Old 08-18-2008, 06:50 AM   #145
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For many of the 50 and 60 trailers most of the bolts are so rusted that, Frank is right, you can just break them off. On some if in good shape a sawzall may be appropriate. On many of mine all I used was a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel on it. You have a little more control especially if near the outside shell. Make sure you've got your glasses! Ed
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Old 08-18-2008, 12:06 PM   #146
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Thanks I will experiment. Actualy I was looking down at the floor from inside the shell when I ask the question.
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Old 08-18-2008, 02:07 PM   #147
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do not use glasses use goggles if you cut metal. Take it from a guy that was wearing safety glasses and still got metal in his eye. Eye surgery is not fun, I know.
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Old 08-20-2008, 05:33 PM   #148
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2 coats of por-15, will put the top coat on tomorrow..........
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Old 08-21-2008, 05:26 PM   #149
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Finished with top coat today............3 coats total
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:32 AM   #150
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Decided to go with 3/4" AC plywood at $44.00 a sheet, a few voids but very solid stuff, happy with the selection. Will be sealing the edges and bottom with liquid wood, there appear to be other brands but I chose liquid because the store is 5 miles from my work. On the ends, I had no existing patterns to work with, will lower the shell enough to trace a pattern.

My axle and black and gray tanks should be in next weekend.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...ler-44632.html
http://www.abatron.com/cms/buildinga...iquidwood.html
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Old 08-29-2008, 06:01 PM   #151
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Wheel tubs

Was going to have new wheel tubs fabricated but decided to rework the original ones, a big cost saving.
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Old 08-30-2008, 08:13 AM   #152
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I think you will be happy you went up to 3/4" AC. I did that on my project and have been happy with the more solid feel. A little extra weight but probably not that much for the added support. How was the framing(outriggers) around your steps? I had to double mine to get enough support/rigidity there. Now they are much more solid. Great job thus far! I'm following with interest. Ed
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Old 08-30-2008, 09:54 AM   #153
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I think you will be happy you went up to 3/4" AC. I did that on my project and have been happy with the more solid feel. A little extra weight but probably not that much for the added support. How was the framing(outriggers) around your steps? I had to double mine to get enough support/rigidity there. Now they are much more solid. Great job thus far! I'm following with interest. Ed
Ed

Thanks, I plan to seal the edges and bottom of the plywood with Liquid Wood. There was no step there when we bought it, on our 65 Caravel we use a step that we bought from Camping World and we love it.
Aluminum Folding Step - Item - Camping World

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Old 08-30-2008, 10:02 AM   #154
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Seal them, a good coat of paint........done

Seal them, a good coat of paint.............done
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