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Old 08-24-2008, 07:52 PM   #1
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amitchell's Avatar
Profile:  1972 27' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Posts: 26

Should I replace my floor?

Hello everyone! We have finally started renovating our 1972 Overlander. It's our first Airstream, and our first renovation, so we are digging into these forums and learning as much as we can. We are planning on a pretty serious interior renovation, but before we get started, we want to make sure that any necessary floor repairs are made.

I have gutted the interior, and have removed all of the carpeting. The sub-flooring in 75% of the trailer appears to be in great shape. However, there is some serious staining around the perimeter in the front. There is also some rotten wood in a few places that crumbles upon contact.

My question is this: From the pictures I have provided, can you tell if I need to replace the entire plywood sheets in the front, or can I patch those rotten areas? I guess that I am trying to avoid removing the interior skins. Might be easier, just to replace the entire plywood sheets, but I'm just curious what everyone thinks.

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Allen Mitchell
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Old 08-24-2008, 08:16 PM   #2
4 Rivet Member
Profile:  1975 27' Overlander
Chatham , Ontario
Posts: 258

Given that you've gone to the trouble of removing everything, and that the floor is an integral component of the structure, you don't want to take any shortcuts at this point.

However, the Airstream service manual describes the process for splicing in sections of floor, and if you can do this in a way that effectively gives you a new floor, you might consider it.
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Old 08-24-2008, 09:00 PM   #3
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Profile:  1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Posts: 1,271

If its not bad I would splice it in.. Thats what I'm doing here... I will show pics tomorrow of the inserted piece... The left side is solid and I don't want to mess with the plumbing...

Remodel of my 68' Ambassador.

if you can put your finger through it replace it, but if the middle is fine I would just cut out the bad stuff..... If it is just and 1/8 or so of rot on the top you can use some kind of filler....

Or you can just go for it if you have the time.

Mine lasted 40 years and is mostly in good shape, I'm figuring I'm not gonna own this AS for 40 more years.... And I'm treating all the ply wood so it won't rot anymore...
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Old 08-24-2008, 09:13 PM   #4
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Profile:  1994 34' Excella
Mount Vernon , Kentucky
Posts: 219
Images: 10

I believe I would consider splicing in only where needed. I recently helped my brother in law (63silver) do some splicing in his 63 Ambassador, and the floor turned out really solid.
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Old 08-24-2008, 10:22 PM   #5
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Profile:  1972 27' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Posts: 26

Thank you all very much for your replies.

AlbertF, I totally agree... we don't want to take any shortcuts at this point... but I wouldn't mind taking the fastest route!

Purman and 94Tri, I would love to see photos of the splices. Thanks so much!

Best regards
Allen
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:08 PM   #6
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Profile:  1968 22' Safari
Kalamazoo , Michigan
Posts: 83

I agree with what everyone else...splice it. I had a floor (it looked similar to yours) that I had to replace sections in which I just spliced it and it was very solid.
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:28 AM   #7
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Profile:  1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Posts: 1,271

I should have them up this afternoon... I have to cut and treat the patch this morning.
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May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia w/tow package (dark green)

AIR # 31243

WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:33 AM   #8
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Profile:  1972 27' Overlander
estes park , Colorado
Posts: 638

If you want to splice in pieces of subfloor around the perimeter (which is what I did in the front of my coach too) you still have to take off the interior skins in that area to be able to access the bolts/screws that go through the whole sandwich of C-channel, subfloor, and (often) outriggers. This also allows you to install new bolts once the spliced sections of sub-floor are installed. I would not attempt to splice in perimeter sections of sub-floor without doing this! Best of luck- tim
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Old 08-25-2008, 10:54 AM   #9
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Profile:  1972 27' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Posts: 26

I sense a consensus

Everyone, thanks so much for the feedback. It sounds like the general consensus is the patch/splice route.

Tim/tphan ... thanks for your note about removing the interior skins. Makes total sense.

Is it possible to access and replace those elevator/carriage bolts without removing the belly pan?

Thanks again!
Allen
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Old 08-25-2008, 05:37 PM   #10
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Profile:  1972 25' Tradewind
old mystic , Connecticut
Posts: 328

Allen,

After you cut out the bad section of floor you can access the floor stringer and the nut on the bottom of the bolt. Although ours were so rusted my husband had to cut them off with a sawsall. Also be prepared when you cut the first section of floor out, you might find that the mice have made a mess with the insulation. Ours was so bad we ended up dropping the belly pan just to clean out ALL the mouse houses!



Annette
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Old 08-25-2008, 05:46 PM   #11
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Profile:  1972 27' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Posts: 26

Thank you Annette, I'm realling looking forward to digging into the mouse houses. I'm starting to have second thoughts about this whole rotten floor thing. I think that I am going to put the carpet back down and pretend that I never saw it.

-Allen
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Old 08-25-2008, 06:14 PM   #12
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Profile:  1972 25' Tradewind
old mystic , Connecticut
Posts: 328

But Allen, If you don't cut the floor or drop the belly pan you'll never know how many little critter houses you are sleeping with. Maybe sometimes ignorance is bliss! This is what we would have been sleeping with. And this was just the front of the trailer.
Annette
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Old 08-25-2008, 06:53 PM   #13
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Profile:  1972 27' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Posts: 26

Whoa! Thanks for the picture, Annette.

I'll bet you saw an increase in your gas mileage when you got rid of all of that extra mouse-house weight!
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:16 PM   #14
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Profile:  1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Posts: 1,271

Quote:
Originally Posted by amitchell View Post
Thank you all very much for your replies.

AlbertF, I totally agree... we don't want to take any shortcuts at this point... but I wouldn't mind taking the fastest route!

Purman and 94Tri, I would love to see photos of the splices. Thanks so much!

Best regards
Allen
Got the splice in you can see the finished job here

Remodel of my 68' Ambassador.
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May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia w/tow package (dark green)

AIR # 31243

WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
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