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Old 01-28-2012, 09:01 PM   #1
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Should I Repair or Replace?

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Well, I hope I did this right. If I did, then what you are looking at is the rear C-Channel bow to a 75. No, you don't have to adjust your picture, because it truly is in 3 pieces. Now, what you can't tell from the photo, is that it has many holes due to the fact that someone in the past had riveted a piece of steel to it. There is not enough left to tell what it was (the steel that is), but I suspect that it was some kind of "L" to help hold the plywood for the floor (also not enough left to be sure of anything). Oh, by the way, I forgot to mention that this is the C-Chanel without the lip for plywood. I also forgot to mention that this steel caused electrolysis, so the piece is very pitted and has a lot of Aluminum oxide. Anyways, to the question. Should I repair or replace? I ask this question because I read a post, where Andy suggested repairing, due to shipping cost (trust me, even with the shipping, this is far from the most expensive part I bough for this project), and that the replacements don't fix exactly and have to be modified. But is there a limit? I feel pretty confident I can weld it back together, and use Alumaweld to fill the holes. I can also use the Alumaweld to "Brazz" in some flat bar to beef it up. But are there limits to when we should replace or repair? and what are they?
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:15 PM   #2
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C-Channel

I think if Andy at InlandRV has them I would order new and replace the old channel. In the condition it is in it would be very hard to repair it to a point where you could count on it doing the job it was designed to do. You know that it holds the shell to the floor and stabilizes the outer skins. That said the new ones will give you years of service without worry. Spend the money for the peace of mind. Ed
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:26 PM   #3
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Thanks for your response

Thank you.

I'm not sure if Any has them. Even in the post that I referred to (that Andy wrote repair), he also wrote something about that they are not made anymore. And if you find one, they are generic and don't fit to a specific year (if I remember correctly, you know, as you get older, you don't remember so well). I haven't called him yet, but I did call Out-of-Doors, and they claim to have one. Has anyone done business with these guys, and can they recommend them?
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:32 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by rkuhns956 View Post
Thank you.

I'm not sure if Any has them. Even in the post that I referred to (that Andy wrote repair), he also wrote something about that they are not made anymore. And if you find one, they are generic and don't fit to a specific year (if I remember correctly, you know, as you get older, you don't remember so well). I haven't called him yet, but I did call Out-of-Doors, and they claim to have one. Has anyone done business with these guys, and can they recommend them?
I would say if the O-o-D mart is local to you take what you have and compare to what they have. You might be surprised to find they have something very close to what you need or an exact match! You may also try VintageTrailerSupply.com Good Luck, Ed
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkuhns956 View Post
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Now, what you can't tell from the photo, is that it has many holes due to the fact that someone in the past had riveted a piece of steel to it. There is not enough left to tell what it was (the steel that is), but I suspect that it was some kind of "L" to help hold the plywood for the floor (also not enough left to be sure of anything).
That piece of steel was a factory installed item. it is called the rear holddown plate. It is imperative that you replace it with a new piece. It can be treated with a corrosion inhibiter to stop further corrosion.
Yes it is an L shaped piece. It's job is to hold down the shell to the frame and transfer the loads and stresses put on the frame/ shell. It bolts down through the floor into the main frame rails and is riveted to the shell and C channel.
I would replace the C channel as well as yours is severly compromised.
Inland and OODM sells it.
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:00 PM   #6
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I replaced the steel with Aluminum angle to stop the corrosion issue, and used stainless steel on top of the frame for the gap between the trunk and the body. Only have one summer of camping, but so far so good.

good luck
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:28 PM   #7
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From frame rail to frame rail

So, Am I to take it, that this piece spanned from frame rail to frame rail? Can you give me any dimensions (top and bottom length of the "L")? Wasn't the Aluminum part you replaced it with thicker? How did you compensate for the extra thickness? From the pictures, I can see you also had some oxide going on below the hatch. I am missing a 19" piece of this panel. So I planed on getting some sheet aluminum to replace it. Do you know what gauge this this should be?
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:56 PM   #8
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I replaced with the same overall width and angle size of the original steel piece. The bottom of the angle sits on top of the last cross member and I bolted thru the last cross member. The thickness of the aluminum angle is thicker but did not effect the appearance after the rub rail molding was installed. I do not have a picture of the trailer after the rail molding was put back in place but you can't see a difference.

where the C-channel goes over the main frame rails, I bolted and made custom rectangular Aluminum washers to fit in the bottom of the C-channel to spread out the load on the C-channel.

hopefully this helps,
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Old 01-28-2012, 11:08 PM   #9
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Yes, thank you, all is helpful. However, I have nothing left of this piece. But my wheels (in my mind) are already turning. I have an idea of how to do this. Right now, my first job and plan of attack it to get the C-channel ordered. I live at the bottom of the world (well U.S. anyways) and everything has to be shipped in (I guess it could be worse, I could be in Alaska). Ops, sorry, hope I didn't offend anyone in Alaska. I just meant it could be worse on the shipping.
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Old 01-28-2012, 11:11 PM   #10
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I am currently farther south, Puebla Mexico
When I get home I will send you the measurements you requested.
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Old 01-28-2012, 11:19 PM   #11
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another pic should make it easy to estimate the length doesn't need to be exact.
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:19 PM   #12
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Yup, I guess you are farther south then me. I hope your there on vacation. Anyways, thanks for all your help. I would guess that there is no rush on anything. Since it's Sunday, I'm sure no one is open, so I haven't called yet, but OOD's web site stated that this is not a stock part and would take 6 weeks to get (and since it's me and my project, I'm sure even longer. But I'm also sure everyone feels that way). Now with that said, as I stated in my earlier post, I'm Not even sure I need the dimensions an more. I don't see a rear hatch on yours (does this mean you have a center bath?, just so I can learn). But mine does. The aluminum panel from the hatch down, has had some major cancer going on (I can see from the pictures, you have some of that (oxide) going on as well). Pieces of mine are even missing (I will try to get some pictures). Now, I am one who always believes that the engineers know better then me, but thanks to wasagachris and his description of how this works, I am cooking up a new design on how this thing should be. Knowing that this piece helps hold up the rear end of the frame (by the way, did I mention this all started by looking at my tail sag, about 3/4 of an inch, maybe less, but it is there) and that I do have a little tail sag to repair, and that my aluminum panel that this thing is riveted to is a bit corded, I am thinking (unless someone stops me) to make the piece attach to the bottom of the hatch frame. This way, I will have the c-channel, the rear holddown plate, washers made of aluminum flat bar inside the c-channel, and the rear hatch, all help holding the frame up to the shell.

And please, if anyone with experience with this (notice I said experience and not more, since this is my first AS project) thinks this is a bad idea, please say so, before I make a mistake.

P.S.

When I do put my floor in, and since it seems that the tub sites over the frame rail, I was also thinking of running some flat bar on the top side of the floor, under the tub. This way I can drill thru that and the frame and bolt it all together, and use the floor to help with the tail sag.
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:18 PM   #13
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Here for work, no vaca, and yes mine is a mid-bath. Not sure if I follow your ideas on how to fix the rear sag issue . I also had rear end issues, but mine was more with rust.

The picture shows the rust and also shows an added "L" shapped metal welded to the bottom of the main frame. This "L" metal goes from the rear bumper and is welded to the axle plates to stregthen up the rear frame section. This was completed by the PO but I left it there when I fixed the rust.

If your frame isn't rusted and you add the bolt through the main frame flooring and "C" channel it should really help with the sag.
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:42 PM   #14
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No C Channel bow

I called Inland RV and ODM, both seem to have no idea, and were going to call me back. Well, I have not heard from Inland, and I returned call to ODM. The Gentleman there said to use a windows bow. If I start using something like that, I'm sure I'm going to have to modify it. This would most likely mean cutting to get the curve right. If I'm doing that, then what is the differences then if I just fix mine?

I did find the thread were Andy said they don't make it anymore.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...nel-65746.html

So, Same question new variables. Should I repair, or replace with a windows bow, that I am sure will need reshaping?
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