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12-10-2012, 09:12 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1967 30' Sovereign
Fairhope
, Alabama
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 232
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Short Ribs and the best floor/frame repair?
Morning everyone - I need some help here. I removed the interior skins at the rear of the trailer this weekend in preparation for a floor repair. From this forum I expected the ribs to go all the way to the floor channel but they actually stop short by several inches. This appears to be factory work but is this truly correct? If the entire structure should be tied together for strength then the rear of this trailer is unsupported other than by the frame and the very flimsy u-channel which has broken from the stress. If I had not already read about frame sag I might be less concerned. Has anyone run into a similar condition on their trailers and what is the best fix?
Thanks!
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Melissa
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12-10-2012, 09:31 AM
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#2
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3 Rivet Member
1967 30' Sovereign
Fairhope
, Alabama
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 232
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And a couple of photos to help explain...
Photo 1 is the rib just fore of the water heater access door - rib goes all the way to the channel
Photo 2 is the rib at the back of the trailer - all of the ribs behind the water heater access, in the end cap are short like this
Photo 3 is the damaged u channel - when the plywood rotted the frame basically just yanked the bolt and the attached section of u out. So is the plywood at this point providing some form of cantilevered support? Not the best idea in my mind. Am I missing some other connection between ribs and frame?
__________________
Melissa
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12-10-2012, 12:22 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
Pierre
, South Dakota
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 132
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Melissa,
Yes thats the way their built. The rear ribs don't tie into the rear bows on the floor. The frame is held in the rear by the skin riveted to the bows that are bolted thru the plywood into the frame. Some folk have extended the ribs and tied into the bow. There should be a rear hold down plate that comes from the frame up into the the skins on the rear. This plate is bolted up under the plywood and riveted to the skins.
I was born and raised in Alabama, sure do miss the FRESH seafood along the coast. What I would give for the friday night buffet at the Fowl River Rest.
good luck,
Jack
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12-10-2012, 12:54 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
1967 30' Sovereign
Fairhope
, Alabama
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 232
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Long way from home
Wow, Jack you have traveled a long way from Alabama. Just guessing, but its probably not mid-70's up your way right now.
Thanks for your response. I have not seen the rear hold down plate. Doesn't mean its not there, I just didn't know to look for it. Is there any benefit to adding a bracket and tying the frame to the ribs? In your opinion, would this help prevent frame sag?
Thanks
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Melissa
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12-10-2012, 02:27 PM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
Pierre
, South Dakota
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 132
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Last night it was down to -1 with only 8 to 10 inches of snow on the ground.
The hold down plate will be bent on approx. a 100 degree angle, at least thats the way it was on the 31 ft.75 model. Although I am working on a 67 tradewind and it don't have the hold down plate. I don't know if they did not install on 24 ft.,or that year, or if a repair was made and deleted.
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12-11-2012, 03:09 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.nolte
And a couple of photos to help explain...
Photo 1 is the rib just fore of the water heater access door - rib goes all the way to the channel
Photo 2 is the rib at the back of the trailer - all of the ribs behind the water heater access, in the end cap are short like this
Photo 3 is the damaged u channel - when the plywood rotted the frame basically just yanked the bolt and the attached section of u out. So is the plywood at this point providing some form of cantilevered support? Not the best idea in my mind. Am I missing some other connection between ribs and frame?
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I would also change the u channel to something thicker and with a floor channel in it so you don't need to bolt it down so much and rely on the strength of the wood the bolts are surrounded by. Here's the link, I used this and it's MUCH better the re welding the old flimsy channel back.
http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?m...oducts_id=1002
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12-11-2012, 03:12 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 195Pilot
Last night it was down to -1 with only 8 to 10 inches of snow on the ground.
The hold down plate will be bent on approx. a 100 degree angle, at least thats the way it was on the 31 ft.75 model. Although I am working on a 67 tradewind and it don't have the hold down plate. I don't know if they did not install on 24 ft.,or that year, or if a repair was made and deleted.
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Crap theirs a hold down plate on the 31' 75's? Where, do u have a pic of it? I'm not trying to thread hijack but I may not have put that back on the one I'm working on.
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12-11-2012, 03:26 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
Pierre
, South Dakota
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 132
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Shadeemry,
The one I'm working on has a rear hold down plate, The plate is in the center and runs between the main frame beams, under the plywood and runs up the rear shell. The plate is riveted to the rear skin.Could be aftermarket fix as there is evidence some one has been in there before me. But even if ftermarket I will be puttiing the plate back on.
good luck,
Jack
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12-12-2012, 07:29 AM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
1967 30' Sovereign
Fairhope
, Alabama
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadeemry
Crap theirs a hold down plate on the 31' 75's? Where, do u have a pic of it? I'm not trying to thread hijack but I may not have put that back on the one I'm working on.
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Hijack away - I'll take all the help I can get.
__________________
Melissa
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12-12-2012, 07:43 AM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
1967 30' Sovereign
Fairhope
, Alabama
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 195Pilot
Shadeemry,
The one I'm working on has a rear hold down plate, The plate is in the center and runs between the main frame beams, under the plywood and runs up the rear shell. The plate is riveted to the rear skin.Could be aftermarket fix as there is evidence some one has been in there before me. But even if ftermarket I will be puttiing the plate back on.
good luck,
Jack
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Hey Jack is the hold down plate between the outer skin and the ribs?
I really like the idea of adding something like this if its not already there but I don't want to open up the outer skin. Any thoughts on another way to acomplish this? I wonder if I could use aluminum and strap from the ribs down to the frame? Sort of like hurricane strapping on a house.
PS - it got down to 37 here last night and only low 50's today - we are freezing! You are a brave brave man to live in -1 weather.
__________________
Melissa
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12-30-2012, 03:45 PM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.nolte
Hey Jack is the hold down plate between the outer skin and the ribs?
I really like the idea of adding something like this if its not already there but I don't want to open up the outer skin. Any thoughts on another way to acomplish this? I wonder if I could use aluminum and strap from the ribs down to the frame? Sort of like hurricane strapping on a house.
PS - it got down to 37 here last night and only low 50's today - we are freezing! You are a brave brave man to live in -1 weather.
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Hopefully this helps...
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