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Old 05-30-2004, 10:41 AM   #71
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Chuck,
I think installing the plywood lengthwise makes more sense. Plywood has twice the bending strength lengthwise than it does across the width. Lengthwise (parallel to the frame) installation would make the chassis stiffer in the fore-aft direction.
I think using the elevator bolts, staggered, spaced every six inches on the new center strip would give you a very strong connection. I don't think biscuits would add a whole lot.

I believe Airstream laid the sheets crosswise for ease of assembly, not for strength.

Added thot: You could stagger the sheets from side to side, by installing the first sheet with the edge on the steet side and a narrower (40" wide) sheet on the curb side. Then the next pair, put the 48" width on the curbside and the narrow piece to the streetside. And the third pair is the same as the front. This requires moving moving the 'center strip' from side to side, but it avoids having any "four corner" joints, which a flooring installer will tell you is a boo-boo.

Also, if you can get 7-ply 'plyform' or similar plywood rated "Struc-1", the floor bending strength is twice what you would get from 5-ply sheathing.
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Old 05-31-2004, 08:56 AM   #72
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Don

Is 5/8" plyform or struc-1 easy to find at most lumber yards?

Ken
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Old 05-31-2004, 10:01 AM   #73
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Ken,

Not really. Some lumber yards have Struc-1 in OSB if you want to use that. I had to look around and finally e-mailed the manufacturer for a list of local yards. I went to a company in Minneapolis that stocks only plywood, for large contractors.

I guess I'm lucky to have time to look for stuff like this.

Here's some info on plywood. http://www.apawood.org/pdfs/managed/X505-R.pdf
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Old 05-31-2004, 10:28 AM   #74
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Don

You are just an enyclopedia of information! I don't want to use OSB - I'll have to ask around here. Don't expect to find much here in the middle of nowhere, but you never know.

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Old 05-31-2004, 06:47 PM   #75
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Hmmmm.

I'll be shopping for ply tomorrow.
I'll let you know what I come up with around here....
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Old 06-03-2004, 08:20 PM   #76
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OK. I can get CDX ply for $22.99 a sheet.

Or AC with a mahoghany face for $43.20.

Or BC pine for $29.99.

Or AC pine for $32.99.

Or AB marine for $72.31 (but that's 3/4"...I haven't found 5/8" here...

Or I can get lots of OSB.....



Anyone? Anyone?
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Old 06-04-2004, 03:39 AM   #77
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Chuck
Looks like you'll be using CDX or BC Pine, where did you get the prices? Home Depot? If your like myself and a few other poverty stricken A/S owners you won't be using marine grade.
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Old 06-04-2004, 05:40 PM   #78
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I have yet to decide.
The AC is nice stuff...supposedly has superior glue, according to the lumber guy....

No, all prices were from lumberyards, except the best CDX deal, if I recall, was from Menards.

I may not worry so much - I plan to epoxy the edges and one face....

I think I'm going to go lengthwise for two sheets per side, then one across. Suggestions - do the one across in the front or the rear?
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Old 06-04-2004, 06:00 PM   #79
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Chuck,
I would defintely go at least BC, although AC is only $3/sht more. Try to get "Group 1" face ply. Group 1 is Doug fir, pine, and some other plies. They are stronger than group 2. Stay away from the Luan faced.

Running the two center sheets lengthwise and the end panels crosswise sounds like a good idea. Most of the bending stress is over the axles, and placing the center sheets with their highest strength perpendicular to the load is a good plan. On the other hand, I'm planning to run all the sheets parallel to the frame so that I don't have a joint located near the axle. I don't think it will make much difference though.
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Old 06-04-2004, 09:14 PM   #80
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5/8 void free. You are going to want at least one side to be smooth for your floor surface. You are also going to want to make sure that there are no spaces where you attach to the frame and outrigers.

Just my .02.....

That and when you change the floor thickness, you change how the belt line attaches and how the belly skin ataches. Many new holes to seal....
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Old 06-05-2004, 12:37 AM   #81
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Chuck

Here is the way I am replacing my floor

http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photo...sort/1/cat/500
http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photo...sort/1/cat/500
http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photo...sort/1/cat/500
http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photo...sort/1/cat/500
http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photo...sort/1/cat/500
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Old 06-05-2004, 07:31 AM   #82
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Leonard,

I love picture #4. You should figure out a place to mount them permanently.

MORE POWER!
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Old 06-05-2004, 08:13 AM   #83
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Leonard

Great pictures! First I've seen a jack from floor to ceiling - thats innovative - most floor replacements I've seen just shove the plywood under the body - did you find that the jack lifted the body a bit?

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Old 06-05-2004, 09:58 AM   #84
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Don

The only problem is I would need a Kenworth to pull my A/S. MORE POWER!!!!

Ken
The jack is a large screw jack out of a pickup I assume, it came with the stuff in the trailer, I just screwed it by hand so i could control the lift better, the shell came right up.
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