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Old 05-28-2004, 01:12 PM   #57
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By the way, the width of my plywood is 85 5/8". Or maybe it was 85 1/2", with swollen plywood.

That's narrower than everyone else's 88"!

Maybe it's a build-year thing.
Maybe it's a model-thing.
Anyone?
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Old 05-28-2004, 01:43 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funchucky1
By the way, the width of my plywood is 85 5/8". Or maybe it was 85 1/2", with swollen plywood.

That's narrower than everyone else's 88"!

Maybe it's a build-year thing.
Maybe it's a model-thing.
Anyone?

Interesting.
Well there is a known shell change about mid to late 58. The end caps started the 9 pannel instead of 13 like your coach has, Windows they were using also changed. The CA whale tail went away. I had assumed the frame and basic floor width had stayed the same but it appears not.

FRED! you get that?
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Old 05-28-2004, 02:00 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funchucky1
By the way, the width of my plywood is 85 5/8". Or maybe it was 85 1/2", with swollen plywood.

That's narrower than everyone else's 88"!

Maybe it's a build-year thing.
Maybe it's a model-thing.
Anyone?
Chuck,

Are you measuring inside the floor channel? 88 inches is the outside dimension.
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Old 05-28-2004, 07:15 PM   #60
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Don, there's the problem!!
I'm just kidding. I'm measuring the plywood, or the outside of the channel, whichever you prefer.


Did I mention the whole bellypan is off?
And about a quarter of the floor?

I was able to keep large parts of the Uchannel on the bellypan, too, for what that's worth.

Made lots of nice drawings
And took lots of photos.

Just so I can reminisce what it used to look like, before I turned it into a greenhouse
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Old 05-28-2004, 07:46 PM   #61
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Chuck,

Then I have no idea. I just thought it co-incidental that mine measures 85+ inches inside the channel, very close to what yours measures outside.

Maybe your unit was on a low-carb diet?
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Old 05-28-2004, 09:26 PM   #62
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Yeah, but if the bellypans were arteries, then the low carb diet sure did clog up the arteries with dirt!

I did get a few sections of floor out today.

Check out the cute little outriggers in the front.
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Old 05-28-2004, 09:48 PM   #63
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By the way,

I think I'm going to use a grinder or something to cut off the floor bolts from underneath. It seems I have a C-channel frame....
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Old 05-29-2004, 07:29 AM   #64
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I was thinking of having the tongue and rear bumper sprayed with Line-X.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?

(Line-X is a sprayed-in bedliner, like Rhino, only better )

I know it'll be black, and I'll sandblast and POR-15 first....but what do you think?
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Old 05-29-2004, 08:06 AM   #65
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If you use POR-15 - thats all you need - just paint over it. You won't ever have a rust problem again. Personally, I dont' like the texture of bedliners on trailer frames.

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Old 05-29-2004, 11:55 AM   #66
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Yeah, I have pondered the texture idea.

I sort of wondered, though, if it would be so different than a tongue with 50 years of rust pitting that's been painted...

I'll see what it looks like after a sandblasting.

The nice thing about the Line-X is that it is TOUGH.
I will never, ever have to worry about scratching, scraping, nicking or otherwise damaging the finish.
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Old 05-29-2004, 06:47 PM   #67
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Just my personal opinion - I think the texture would look thick and even, whereas the rusting and pitting should go away when you sandblast it - will give it nicer finish - I just respray my tongue on the 75 every few years and it passes the 10 foot rule, so it looks great to me.

Don't let me discourage you if you like the look. It is tough stuff and I know it will last a long time. I have seen it used on the front of the trailer too as a rock guard.

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Old 05-29-2004, 09:01 PM   #68
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Tongue paint

Chuck,

POR-15 has lots of components that will recreate a like new surface. Go to their web site. They have surfacers and fillers that work well. Their specialty is making old, pitted, busted up parts look like new.

Of course, if you like the textured look of the truck liner stuff, that works too.

My neighbor has a new utility trailer with the frame done in truck liner. I personally think it looks ok on a work trailer, but don't know about an airstream. Personal choice I guess.
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Old 05-30-2004, 10:08 AM   #69
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Well, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
I DO like the textured, very black appearance of Line-X; I haven't yet decided if I'd like it on my Airstream.
I have a couple of POR-15's filler products; haven't tried them yet, though.

Ahh, yes. The frame is all visible!

I just need to take off a few 3 inch wide strips of floor from some crossmembers (three, I think)!!

Then I'll have a bare frame.

Do you all suggest using the old bolt holes for bolt replacement? Or new holes?

I haven't actually tried to take any elevator bolts out yet. The rusted bolts are "one" with the rusted frame. I expect to have to cut / gring the bolts off at the frame, then drill them out.

And....is the general consensus that the best idea is to weld a center steel strip longitudinally, and apply the plywood surface lengthwise, with a seam down the middle?
If so, are you joining them (like with biscvuits or something) or just bolting edges of both sheets down that center strip?

Thanks, all!
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Old 05-30-2004, 10:31 AM   #70
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Chuck
I think it's best to put the plywood back down the way it came.The trailer gets a lot of it's rigidity from the floor and it's also easier to install that way.If you are looking for elevator bolts I got mine at www.apachesales.com they were $5 for 100 and had a large 1" head which seems to work well at holding floor joints together.
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